Better nyet, buy a "spec grade"switch with back-clamp terminals. No bending required. So simple a trained ape can do it properly, and you are assured you are getting a reasonable quality switch, unlike the "49 cent specials" from Home Despot. I believe the BORG actually does carry the good stuff as well - - -.
SO sorry. Being a good Canadian I guess I should appologize for everything I say - - - -
I don't see why it has anything to do with your nationality. Being a good
*person* is the only reason someone should apologize if they make an inaccurate statement.A good *person* would simply apologize instead of deflecting the blame by changing the subject.
I wouldn't even say an apology is needed. Just a simple acknowledgement of the point made would suffice. Better watch out, Clare will have you in his kill file soon.
snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca posted for all of us...
Promptly and bow down to the X-spirts
snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca posted for all of us...
I was just going to post this... My minimum is spec grade. I guess one could go to Wallys for a switch but...
I have a few of the smaller strippers too. They can be a trick to use if you do not adjust that screw for each wire size but after a while you do get a feel for how to nick the insulation enough to get it off without hurting the conductor. The bigger one has the advantage of being a lot of tools in one package.
A VTVM? Haven't seen one in 50 years.
One can only wish.
That, plus a field effect transistor analog meter. Read as a solid state VTVM.
I have both that were bought around 40 years ago.
I did check out the VTVM a couple of months ago on a rainy day just to see how accurate it was compaired to a Fluke meter and the Simpson 260. Did not try out the transistor vom as it takes a 'special' battery, about 8 volts if I remember correctly. Did not want to put in the connector for a 'standard' 9 volt battery on somehting I probably will not use.
Yes there are, but the average "handyman" today does not have a VTVM or other high end analog device. Most wouldn't have a clue how to read a multi-scale analog meter - let's face it even a digital multi-tester would baffle a good many. The vast majority will have access to a cheap (or even free from "Harbor Fright" digital.
I made an innaccurate statement? No I did not. I said "code required" rhe box to be grounded. It does, and has for decades. If the box is grounded the meter will work as I described. For accuracy - I tested a cheap digital and a good high impedence digital with no ground. The cheap digital did not read with a "capacitive ground" while the good high impedence did.
I'll make another recomendation for troubleshooting for the "basic handyman".
Get an "old school" neon "pocket tester".It WILL show when power is present without a physical ground. So will a "non contact" voltage sensor (if you get one that works - there is a lot of very chintzy chinese junk on the market - test on a known live circuit first to make sure you don't end up "chasing your tail"
So sorry if you don't understand what I'm saying or are offended in any way.
Mine is sitting on a shelg as a decoration - or was for years - Gotta go check to be sure - wouldn't want to post in-accurate information on this list --- Yup - the old Heathkit IM-11 is still there - whew! Don't have to appologize for that one!!
The one I used had FETs instead of vacuum tubes.
Wasn't a VTVM then was it?
Tekkie? wrote in news:xrIjB.435401$ snipped-for-privacy@fx37.iad:
I picked up a Walmart $1.59 GE switch. Maybe I should reconsider and try a good hardware store before I install anything.
Stab connection or screw? I've had stab connections fail with time. Simply use the screw.
The GE switch will likely last far longer than you will. You are only controlling two light bulbs with it. Feel confident and safe using the item you purchased, it will be just fine.
John Keiser wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@powerusenet.com:
Screw
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