Wall switch question

My ceiling light in my bedroom conked out this morning, I grabbed a VOM and removed the cover from the wall switch to see if it was working, Unfortunately instead of the four connections I was expecting there were only two, I assume the hot line in and out. Without access to the neutral I can't use the voltmeter to see if the switch is working, I rashly assume the neutrals are connected together on the back of the switch. Is there any way I can check this switch without removing it?

If I decide to remove it how can I find the correct power breaker to turn off since the light it feeds doesn't work. I can't just flip breakers until the light goes off.

Suggestions - besides call an electrictian and spend a bunch of my sparse money?

TIA

Reply to
KenK
Loading thread data ...

Did you already check the light bulb and, breakers for one that might be tripped? These days, I find that SPST light switches rarely go bad. Did you remove the bulb and test the socket with your VOM?

You can acquire a very inexpensive non-contact voltage tester that will safely let you determine if the hot leg is energized without removing the switch. See:

formatting link

As a last resort, you can turn off the main breaker for the residence then safely remove the switch for testing.

Reply to
Stormin' Norman

I can see that you need lots of education on house wiring and how to use the meter.

Set the meter to check voltage (I am going to assume you are in a normal house in the US). Place the leads on the terminals of the switch. Cut the switch off and on. If there is any load (lightbulb) on the end of the wires you should get a voltage with the switch on and no voltagw with the switch on. If no voltage shows up either way, then cut off the power to the circuit if you can find it. Use the ohm meter to check the switch.

If you can not find the power to the switch ther is one more simplething you can do. Find a drop cord. Plug it in any outlet near the switch. As all neutral wires go to the smae place, you can use the neutral side of the dropcord. Stick one meter probe in the neutral of the drop cord and one on the hot side of the switch to make sure you have voltage. If so, go to the oter side of the switch with that lead and turn the swithc off and on. If by chance you stick the meter probe in the hot side of the drop cord, you will either get no voltage or about 240 volts instead of the nominal 120 volts.

All normal house wiring for simple lights connect the neutral to to light socket and only break the hot wire if done correctly. They do not usually break the hot and neutral wires on most things in the house.

Reply to
Ralph Mowery

There are still things you can do. You can test across the switch. It should show 120v open, 0v closed. If the box is grounded metal you can check from the switch terminals to the box. On any installation in the last decade or so the switch yoke is required to be grounded, even if the box is plastic.

Reply to
gfretwell

Stormin' Norman wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

All the other power in the bedroom is ok so I didn't check the breakers. I did try replacing both bulbs - no help.

Since there are two sockets and new bulbs worked in neither I didn't check the socket voltage. Since the lighr fixture is over the bed it's very difficult to make that meaurement.

Then I can't see what I'm doing. No one to hold a flashlight.

Reply to
KenK

I would check the breakers, just-in-case. Doesn't cost a penny to do it and it might solve your issue.

As for not being able to see what you are doing, it is a bedroom, is there no window where you can open the drapes, curtains, blinds or shade to let daylight into the room?

Some other guys have chimed in with good suggestions, you should read them and see if they help.

Reply to
Stormin' Norman

Use a short piece of (insulated) wire to temporarily jumper across the two connections on the switch . If the lights come on the switch is bad or one of the connections is loose ... If not , you can pull the switch and check connections behind it , drop the fixture and do the same . Beyond that it's going to get complicated .

--

Snag

Reply to
Terry Coombs

Even simpler, since the safety ground and neutral are bonded, and all boxes, by code, need to be grounded, just connect the voltmeter between the grounded box and each terminal in turn. One must be live at all times, the other will be live with the switch on, if the switch is good. That said, have you checked the light bulb??? (virtually)Infinitely higher chance of the bulb spontaneously dying than the switch

Reply to
clare

That is what I would do but there is no way I recommend this to someone with limited electrical experience. If someone did try that, be sure to only expose the minimum amount of conductor you need at the stripped ends (~1/8") and be sure the insulation of the wire is at least 300v rated, 600v (regular building wire) is better.

Reply to
gfretwell

My headlamp has saved me in similar situations many times. That purchase was one of the smarter things I've done. I have three now and they all get used.

Reply to
TimR

Just because code *requires* something doesn't mean that the something is in fact present. Do you, with 100% certainty, know that the OP's box is grounded?

Reply to
DerbyDad03

Or even that it's a metal box. They stopped using those for most residential wall outlets decades ago here.

Reply to
trader_4

No I don't - but with a high impedence (digital) voltmeter he doesn't even NEED a ground Just touch the second lead of the meter with a finger and you will get a reading (not neccesarily accurate) if there is power. Amd you MIGHT feel a very tiny tickle - but not likely. The current flowing through the voltmeter is virtually nil.

Reply to
clare

TimR wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com:

Forgot I had one. Thank you!

Reply to
KenK

snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

Tried new bulbs first thing.

Reply to
KenK

Stormin' Norman wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

They feel solidly on.

Pretty much eliminated that possibility. Measured voltage across the two connections on the switch. 120 A/C. In on and off positions. Seems to mean that the switch is definitely bad. The voltage across the only two terminals should drop to 0 when the switch is on. The switch should be a short circuit then.

Now it's a matter of buying a new switch at Walmart today and getting ambitious wnough to locate the correct power breaker and and brave enough to replace the switch.

Reply to
KenK

Do you have a wire stripper? I like the flat ones with different slots for different wire sizes. Note there is a hole in one of the jaws. You use that to form the "U" to put under the terminal screw, Stick the wire in and bend it around. Fast and works great. Go around the screw the right way. (clockwise) with the end at 3 and the standing part of the wire at 9 so tightening pulls the wire in.

Reply to
gfretwell

snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

I have two kinds. The one you describe and the much smaller one that just strips wires. I have to admit I prefer the small one. I'll have to try the one you describe again; obviously I'm overlooking some of its features.

Reply to
KenK

That's funny. You know, you are allowed to simply apologize.

Reply to
DerbyDad03
[snip]

There are high impedance analog meters. I have used one in college. [snip]

Reply to
Mark Lloyd

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.