"J Burns" wrote in message
I bought tires a couple of months ago. Yesterday I tried to remove a
wheel to check the bearing. The nuts wouldn't budge.
They're supposed to be torqued to about 65 foot-pounds. After letting
penetrating oil work overnight, I got 15 of the 16 nuts with a cruciform
wrench with 10" arms. I used a pipe to extend one arm and stood on the
I believe I'm applying well over 200 foot-pounds. The wrench twists so
far that I think more force would be dangerous. I'll see what tools
neighbors have, or maybe go to a mechanic.
Can I have the dealer and his crew sent to prison?
Years ago I had Sears install snow tires on my truck. Was on a back rough
road and had a flat. I was bending my 4 way lug wrench. No results. Drove
into town to a station I bought gas from. They finely got the nuts off with
an impact wrench. Never bought tires from Sears again.......WW
I've read most of this tread and I only have three comments:
1. I also use anti-seize compound on wheel lugs and have never had any
problems doing that.
2. I also buy tires from auto wrecking yards. A good set of tires
should last a good 10 years or more, and often that car with the new
tires gets into an accident after only one or two years with those new
tires. It's the auto wrecking yard that inherits those tires when they
bring the smashed up car in, and generally the tires are an excellent
3. In regard to the OP's problem with the overtightened lug nut, I'm
surprised that no one has mentioned Torque Sticks so far in this thread.
'Torque Sticks, Torque Sockets and Other Discount Tools'
Torque Sticks are 1/2 inch drive extension bars that are machined to
precise diameters so that they act very much like a torsion bar spring.
You simply put the Torque Stick in between your impact wrench and the
socket you use to drive the lug nut, and it tightens the lug nut to a
predetermined torque depending on the Torque Stick you're using. That
is, you simply put the Torque Stick on the impact wrench, and then the
impact socket on the Torque Stick and tighten the lug nuts. The Torque
Stick will tighten the lug nuts up to a predetermined torque, after
which the twisting of the Torque Stick will absorb the impacts of the
impact wrench, and the lug nut won't be tightened any further. The OP
needs to go back to the place that overtightened his lug nuts and
explain to them how their using Torque Sticks is good business practice
because it will keep customers from throwing Molotov cocktails through
their business' front window.
Here in Winnipeg, it's rare to see a garage that DOESN'T use Torque
Sticks when replacing the wheels on a car.
I repair roll laminating machines that apply plastic to paper. Every now and then I find a machine I CAN NOT loosen the allen screws on:( drilling them out, ruining sprockets and other parts are a heal pain.
Occasionally the DIY repair person reports I always know when the allen scres are tight, since they go click click click:(
Very expensive for the machines owner:(
Chrysler, Hudson, Oldsmobile, buick, Cadilac, international harvester,
jeep,and many other American makes used LH studs at one point or
another At one point ALL lorries in britain had left hand studs. Some
(actually MANY) medium and heavy trucks still do.
I used the air gun to install wheels for decades - but never let
them "hit" more than once - then finish them up with the torque
wrench. 2 hits with my old CP734 was usually about 65 ft lbs on 120
psi shop air.
Two of my sons had called me to bring my tire wrench as the one supplied
with their cars, a Saturn and a Mercedes, would not take off the lug
nuts. They had used penetrating oil. The Saturn I got bailed out but
wrench was to fat to fit Mercedes hub.
A similar story with air pressure in my new Subaru's tires. After
running a couple of thousand miles I checked them and found them at 40
psi vs 30 psi spec.
I think in all these cases it was the manufacturers fault.
This was summer.
The Subaru dealer told me that tires were inflated higher at factory as
in shipping and storage they did not want to have to add pressure if
needed. Guess you could also blame dealer in not setting to specs.
Correct. I'm not sure when they started doing it, but up through the mid-late 1970s, Chrysler
Corporation vehicles had left-hand thread lugs on the left side, right-hand thread lugs on the
right. Tighten the nut in the same direction the wheel turns when the car is going forward.
I'm not sure exactly when they stopped, either, but my 1985 Dodge truck has RH lugs all
No, it didn't. The left-hand-thread lugs were on the left hand side wheels, and the right-hand
side wheels had right-hand-thread lugs.
Broke a stud, I can believe. I've seen that before. "Pulled it clear out" through 3/8" plate
steel? I doubt it.
"Doug Miller" <>>> Forget the details but in years past, some lug nuts
I know Chrysler cars had left hand nuts on the drivers side. I changed a
bunch of tires working for Sears while going to school. I was cautioned
about that when I started working there around 1970.
I don't know for sure,but heard that some military vehicles had alternating
left and right on the same wheel.
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