Mine weren't rusty. I guess I heated the last one to about 150 F, and
it broke loose (with an extender pipe on the cruciform wrench).
I guess that little bit of heating was like loosening it a fraction of
an degree with a wrench. I guess when a nut has been tightened beyond
its designed elasticity, a fraction of a degree can mean a huge
reduction in tension.
On 9/24/2014 1:31 AM, email@example.com wrote:
I second the motion, to have the last mechanic
sent to prison, or at least reeducation camp.
I've had some success with 25 inch breaker bar,
and black impact sockets.
No clue what it is with mechanics who think that
max tight is the only way to go.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
It is a common problem. I've broken/ torn apart factory provided combo
jack handles/lug nut removal tools trying to remove lug nuts after tires
have been touched by service stations or dealerships.
Heat sounds good. Steel expands 7 millionths per degree F, so boiling
hot might be enough.
Now I've got to find a place that sells those little propane tanks. I
left the torch head on my last tank, and the valve leaked.
"J Burns" wrote in message
I bought tires a couple of months ago. Yesterday I tried to remove a
wheel to check the bearing. The nuts wouldn't budge.
They're supposed to be torqued to about 65 foot-pounds. After letting
penetrating oil work overnight, I got 15 of the 16 nuts with a cruciform
wrench with 10" arms. I used a pipe to extend one arm and stood on the
I believe I'm applying well over 200 foot-pounds. The wrench twists so
far that I think more force would be dangerous. I'll see what tools
neighbors have, or maybe go to a mechanic.
Can I have the dealer and his crew sent to prison?
A few years ago a tire on my Toyota truck was losing air. When I tried (with
helpers) to remove the wheel, two of the six lugs snapped off and we
couldn't budge the other four. To make a long story short, I was later told
that Toyota (and I think Mazda) were notorious for using soft metal on their
lugs which could be easily cross-threaded and essentially welded to the nut.
So in addition to replacing the tire I had all 24 lugs replaced.
On Wednesday, September 24, 2014 7:48:05 AM UTC-4, snafu wrote:
A friend of mine had the lug bolts put on his car super tight by
a tire place too. He went back to complain. The manager came out
with a torque wrench, showed him what the wrench was set to, then
put it on one of the bolts, applied pressure until the wrench clicked.
Whereupon he said "See, that shows that they are torqued to the right
Which goes to show you, even the right eqpt is useless in the hands of
an idiot. Personally, I use an electric impact wrench and just do it
based on experience. Haven't had a problem yet.
He may be an idiot using that demo, but . . .
Don't blame the installer. I had lug bolts om my Karmann Ghia. I'd put
them on with very little torque, but they'd be a bear to get off later.
I'd have to put a pipe on the socket bar and jump on it for some.
The bolts and holes were perfectly machined. You could put them in by
hand to the last 1/8th turn with the wrench.
My friend (who's not all that wise some times) had a
Buick station wagon for hauling his wife and kids.
Fondly called the BMW, Big Mormon Wagon. One time
he bought a set of the small steel lug nuts, because
"didn't like" the tall lug nuts with the closed tops.
With the decorator aluminum wheels, they have a deep
well for the lug nuts. I told him that was a terrible
idea. Anyhow, the steel lugs were so far down in, a
wrench or socket tip didn't engage enough of the lug
to remove them. We were able to remove all but a
couple, and he ended up grinding the lug and stud off
with my die grinder from HF. Remove the wheel, go to
the store and buy new studs to bang in. And then go
back to the tall lug nuts.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
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