\ The engine was never why I got rid of a vehicle, It is stuff like the AC needs $1500 worth of work, the body was rusting out, it needed paint, the transmission was on it's last legs and the interior was sunburned so badly it would never come back.
(the F150 we sold Obama for $4500 plus $450 for the scrap and $80 in tax credits)
If you have anything that new, we are not talking about the same car. I have a 97 Honda and a 2000 Ford.
Honda? I logged 320K Km on my '98 CRV. Nothing was wrong. I got tired of it and sold it. I ran an ad. on local Kijiji and phone started ringing within 30 mins. First guy came along with cash and took the car. I think some people's job is perusing ads. every hour of the day, LOL!
That's certainly happened to me too. One of them leaked from oil pan, the transmission, the power steering, and the radiator, and had dents in every fender, but stil ran smooth and got the same mileage as it did when I got it. But I buy my cars when they are 7 years old and keep them for 7 and it just wasn't worth fixing. BTW, on one Lebaron I'd drive without power steering fluid for months at a time -- it was only a problem at speeds under 3mph -- but when I added fluid, the steering was as good as new, until the fluid ran out in 2 or 3 days. I guess enough stayed in, below the hose level, to lubricate the pump.
The car just turned 14. The truck is 20.
A friend of mine has had 3 CRVs. He's gotten 200K+ miles on each one, without any major repairs, other than AC. The AC systems were the weak spot, he had trouble there, compressors, condensers, clutch, etc on two of them. From what I saw, they were very reliable vehicles, especially considering the price. The BMW X5 here has some real annoying design flaws, like window regulators that break, sending the glass crashing down, breaking it. Had two different ones go that way, another one go without breaking the glass. Also, their rubber parts, eg the big elbow on the intake system, CV boots, just don't last. Those CRVs, I don't think my buddy replaced a CV boot. The X5 goes through them at about 60K.
You sure some do it that way? The cars I've been familiar with that have a light, do it by logging your driving. Long trips, highway driving, less frequent change. Stop and go, short trips, etc, earlier change.
Dealer or shop I was going to do reliable work but both will call for oil changes at half the recommended manual specification.
I'd go to shop for tire rotation and oil change and most of the time they would call my name at the counter, come out, ask me to sit down, and give me a laundry list of things they think need doing. Annoying when they say that windshield wipers need changing when I just did them last month.
I don't have a clue how many miles my 97 Honda has on it. The speedo was obviously tampered with, the CarFax is suspicious and the 10,000 wheel never moved for 10 years (it bumped half way over and snapped back in a few hundred miles). Now it started going again. It says 100k and change. I can say this has been a low maintenance vehicle for me. I did buy the dealer $1000 belt job (water pump, main crank seals etc) because it is more than I wanted to deal with on a Prelude. The first step in the shop manual is "remove engine" ;-) When I looked at it at the dealer, they had loosened the motor mounts and jacked it over a bit. That also gets access to remove the oil pan for the seals. Other than that, I replaced the "juice" parts in the clutch, tires and put in an MP3 player. It does get fresh oil now and then but certainly not as often as it would take to make Clare happy and the oil is from Rural King ($1.50/qt) as often as not. Cars are Bic lighters to me. When it quits, I will throw it away and buy another one.
snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca posted for all of us...
A case I saw when I was wrenching was the boss called me over and wanted to show me something. A Mustang with half a block missing. She got 22k out of it without changing oil... Change oil? wuz dat?
They just look at your service record and see they have never replaced them and ASS U ME they have not been replaced.
When you say "once in a while"- how many months and guestimate of how many miles? twice a year? Depends too how clean the oil stays - which will also depend somewhat on how hot the little critter runs.
You don't have to keep me happy - just you and your Honda.
Or all the Chryslers, Toyotas, VWs etc with the "coking" problem a few years back. Not a single one was a vehicle that followed the "extreme conditions" oil schedule with synthetic oil. Not a SINGLE ONE.
That wasn't all she did wrong. How was the oil light on?
My buddy ran a 65 mopar 50k on factory oil and the problem was stuck lifters. After a few tries with mouse milk he paid a guy to pull the lifters out and clean them. OK after that.
I am not married to the honda. It is a piece of metal that gets me up to Publix. Other question Every year or two?
"Coking"? Is that the car or the driver?
No I never heard about it.
badgolferman formulated the question :
I switched to Royal Purple synthetic in My 1998 Ford Taurus and noticed a smoother running engine. It doesn't make sense, but that's the facts. At oil change time, My 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee will get the Royal treatment as well.
I never changed oil in my '53 Mercury flathead V-8. Just added a quart every few hundred miles.
We use Motul or Redline.
I had a 67 Chevelle like that. "Fill up the oil and check the gas"
Mouse Milk ? WTF is that?
By the way, what is synthetic oil made from?
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