You can tell the difference between worn out and new, for sure. The
difference between new standard plug and new "gee-whiz high tech"
plugs, not likely - unless like with My PT cruiser it misfired with
Champion Iridiums and ran great on standard dual platinums - or like
several renault powered LeSharo motor homes that I ran across that ran
like crap on Bosch platinums, and ran great on ACs..
A lot of mechanics will look at the plugs when doing a "major"
service like that and throw in new ones if they are needed - at no
extra labour charge.
For a good customer, some dealers will even throw in the cost of the
plugs as part of the "deal".
On Thu, 04 Feb 2016 20:27:18 -0500, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
The dealers around here seem to let the service writers and even the
salesmen throw in oil change chits, car washes and all sorts of other
things that are a minimal cost to the dealer.
I did take a bit of selling to agree to $600 more than the guy up at
the end of my street but I did feel better having the dealer doing it.
They did sweeten the pot tho with a lot of other stuff.
I think the only thing I really talked them out of was the shop
It also helped that I was off season and they had a lot of guys
sitting around polishing their wrenches.
They all used to just include that in the price as the cost of doing
business. Some marketing a=hole came up with the idea to add 3% to the
bill for that stuff.
In parts of Italy some restaurant started adding a charge for using the
plates and silverware called Coperto.
They also did crank shaft seals and a laundry list of other little
things. They really have to do some selling to get me to pay $1000 for
a belt job my local mechanic quoted $400 for.
I suppose I may still have the receipt here somewhere but I thought it
would be just about anything I could think of.
Not true unless you have a reader/scanner costing like couple Gs.
Cheap code reader can't read all the codes(generic, manufacturer
specific, ABS, SRS). Nail the bad part? Some times yes. Not 99% of time.
You're so simplistic big time. If you short something fooling around
Poof! ECU goes. Then how much for replacement? I have a mid level
updatable reader/scanner. Telling you from own experience. My back is in
electronics. Even taught 12V electronics at local tech college as a
volunteer. I help neighbors when they have CEL on their dash.
Timing is fixed? wrong. ECU adjusts timing real time back and forth.
Can be done with additional option if driver wants it. Why bother MID
will tell oil status, color yellow or red with message. When you have
red, watch out.
For all the engine specific codes a cheap scanner is all you need. For
ABS and a lot of other specific codes, there are readers out there for
a few hundred dollars that will get most of them When you want to get
in and control things, like exercising the ABS, or exercise the IAC
valve, you need the full-on professional units.
The "mechanic" still needs to have a functioning brain and needs to
understand how things are SUPPOSED to work. The scanner just tells you
what computer inputs are wrong - you still need to figure out what
caused those inputs to be wrong. Could be the sensor itself, or could
be something causing what the sensor senses to be out of spec.
You need to know what you are doing - just like you needed to know
what you were doing to adjust a carburetor, or automatic choke.
All in all maintaining today's vehicles is MUCH simpler, because they
require only a fraction of the maintenance older cars needed.
Repairs can be simpler too - it;s just the diagnosis has gotten a lot
The timing is "fixed" as in YOU cannot adjust it - and it never needs
I have had cars with ECUs in them since the end of the Carter
administration and the code nailed the problem virtually every time.
Maybe I am just careful enough not to "short something fooling around"
so I didn't ever blow an ECU.
I have been in the computer biz since 1965 so I am not intimidated by
something as simple as the processor(s) in a car.
My 67 was more like 8-10 on the beltway but I was turning about 4400
It would do the first quarter mile in about 14.5 seconds tho.
(327 325hp with a Muncie M22 and 456 rear)
It was actually the 350HP Corvette motor with the Holley dual feed,
factory high rise manifold and low restriction exhaust.
This was an out of the box drag racer that was competitive in the
street stock small block class, cleverly disguised in a convertible
body with wood trim and no outward indication that it was bad. Except
for the loping idle and the 2.25" exhaust pipes.
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