SF versus SL 10W-30 oil.

My understanding is that you have to use motor oil that "at least" meets the auto manufacturer's requirement, but would that be true for a generator also?

I got my Yamaha EF1000 today. The instructions call for SE or SF oil; all I had was SL. Is there any reason that might not be okay?

I know, "Call Yamaha". I had to call them three times to verify that a claim made in one of their retailer's ads (that it will do 3500w for 3 seconds) was accurate; I doubt I can actually reach anyone there who knows what oil is. Not that Yamaha doesn't know what oil is; they just don't let those people talk to customers.

Thanks.

Reply to
Toller
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If dealing with a dealer does'nt he sell the oil , Other wise read the manual and follow it Don,t use 10/ 30 as it is not for small engines.

Reply to
jim

Manual specifies 10w-30, only SFor SE; but I figure they haven't even been made for years.

Reply to
Toller

SL is newer and very much ok where SE or SF is specified. You see, "L" comes after "E" or "F". The oils are always backwards compatible.

Reply to
Steve Barker

But what if the engine isn't running backwards?

:)

Reply to
Noozer

Exactly. SL includes SF.

>
Reply to
mm

The engine doesn't have to run backwards. Just put the bike in Reverse.

Reply to
mm

In that case just use 80w90

Reply to
Steve Barker

As other say SL is the newest level oil and I expect exceeds all previous.

I myself use nothing but 5W30 Mobil 1 in my Honda Generator and all other air cooled engines. Air cooled engines usually run hotter and Synthetics can take a lot more heat without breaking down. Another advantage is that synthetics don't need the Viscosity Improvers (that don't provide much lubrication). Don't worry about the 5W classification. That means that at 32 F it has the same visosity as straight 5 weight at that temperature. That is thicker than the oil is when it is at operating temperature.

There are many web sites that get into extensive details about oil. For example:

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Reply to
Rich256

...

That recommendation is a few years out of date. Many if not most small engines manufactured today are designed for multi weight oil.

Reply to
Joseph Meehan

The "S" means Spark (gasoline) [opposed to C which means compression (diesel)]. The second letter is 100% backward compatible, that is the later letters (what will be do when they hit Z?) The later oils can do everything the earlier ones did and more.

Reply to
Joseph Meehan

This is top-notch advice on the synthetic.

SL supersedes & replaces all SK & earlier rated oils and is fine.

Rob

Reply to
trainfan1

Ask this question on

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You'll get a lot of more informed opinions.

Tom

Reply to
tomit

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What question? Who are you responding to? What are you talking about?

Rob

Reply to
trainfan1

For air cooled engines, it's important to use a good quality oil. Air cooled engines run hotter than liquid cooled. My fav is Castrol. So a good name brand is more important than the S rating. Other good brands I like are Penzoil, Mobil, and Exxon.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Briggs and Stratton reccomends.... HD30 weight for summer, and

10W30 for all year round use.
Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Then you'd need LS oil, or ES or FS oil. Maybe even GS.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Or 03w01? That should be backwards compatible.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Any engine needs a oil of at least the quality specified...air-cooled or no.

As for the name on the can, if it meets a specified API/SAE grade, it meets the grade. The rest is advertising hype for the most part.

That said, there are a few oils I _won't_ use -- QS is one. No way to prove it really had anything to do with it, but I had a Chevy 350 throw a rod w/ it -- when opened it up, the top of the head was 2 inches deep in sludge and blocking the oiling holes so it wasn't getting any oil at all down no's 7 & 8 and the rest were ready...never overheated, always changed on schedule, etc., etc., ... But, at

Reply to
dpb

Also for an air cooled/flat tappet engine you might want to look for a "fleet" oil (both gasoline and Diesel rated) and also one NOT rated CJ-4 (the latest Diesel rating.) The newest oils actually have fewer zinc compounds (usually ZDDP, an anti-wear additive) per the new specs.

A motorcycle oil might be a good choice, as well...

nate

Reply to
Nate Nagel

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