I would think the consideration would be the intended purpose rather than
the cost. If the surfaces are smooth, why would one want the gel? One of
the things I like about super glue is the way in wicks into tiny
openings...gel wouldn't wick. Non-gel can work well on less than smooth
surfaces too if you prepare the surface...
In conjunction with my photography, I sometimes had to make frames,
generally largish ones (up to 40x60). I ordered the frame pieces from a
stock house, they cut to size on a guillotine. Frame wood is generally
quite soft and the cut edges wind up rough. My solution was to rub a
stick of chalk over them, filling up the hollows; gently blow off excess,
apply super glue and join. The glue wicks through the chalk binding it to
itself and continues into the wood, binding the thin chalk layer to the
wood. All my frames were joined this way, no nails, none ever failed.
Superglue and baking soda has been used by modelers for decades. The baking
soda accelerates the polymerization of the glue and also acts as a filler in
a less than optimal joint or can make a strengthening fillet. It
particularly useful when gluing up a wing from balsa ribs.
To some extent it is a homemade gel glue. Typically if you're building a
plane you get a big bottle of CA glue. The thin type as the most versatile
as you can use it to laminated a fabric strengthener to the wing root joint
and use it with the baking soda for joints that require more body.
I'm not Sally Safety, but when you're using a lot of the stuff like for the
wing root lamination, believe the notes about adequate ventilation.
Before it became a household item we used the original Eastman formulation
for gluing up o-rings out of round neopreme stock. I got my unsuspecting
girl friend to glue her fingers together in the classic trick. She still
married me, showing a distinct lack of judgement.
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