Yeah...there is that. :-)
I can understand why all the YouTube videos say to check the door switch
first. I wonder how much they charge to swap out that tiny little
Almost as bad as Firestone charging me $20 dollars labor to change my
It is time to check to see where the voltage is being lost at. Take a
voltmeter or one of the simple neon bulb type testers and keep one end of
the meter/probe on the neutral wire where it comes in to the dryer. You may
find a wiring diagram for the dryer to help you trace things. If you have
voltage on one side of the "press to start' switch, put a jumper across that
switch. Then follow the voltage path to see where it is being lost.
You may want to go across the motor first just to see if it is the motor.
The motor may (but I doubt it) have a reset switch on it that is tripped.
Dryers usually have several interlocks. The door switch, thermal cutout or
two, probably one that senses the drum is turning.
I think you mentioned the door switch having 3 terminals but only 2 were
used. The third one usually goes to a light in the drum if there is one.
The switch has one hot leg and the other two are so that one will be hot
when to door is open and goes to that light if there is one. The other one
goes to the control circuit that stops the motor if it is running. Make
sure that the wires were put back on correctly if you took them off.
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Sorry Stormin but I thought "Will not start" in the title would cover that.
And Pico, the motor does turn, but only manually.
I found the problem. It is a bad timer.
I got a bad continuity test on the second timer test. I didn't know
there are two continuity test on the timer.
Now I have to figure out how to get that damn front panel back on. Turns
out it's dangerous.
I wish I would have seen the right youtube video earlier. I wouldn't
have taken the panel off. May there is a video on how to put it back on.
First price I've seen on the timer is $116. Anyone know where to get it
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