It's almost 10 y/o. Model RGS57745PQ0 (Natural Gas)
I've checked owner's manual troubleshooting and checked the outlet. No problem there.
Could be the timer or the "on" switch. I'm pressing the switch but it seems like it "may" not be engaging. Nothing happens. House fuse is fine and the door is shut firmly.
I'm about to pull it out but thought I'd check with the geniuses.
Jim
Hi, Then why don't you check the switch first. Like momentarily shorting the two leads on the switch. If switch is good and you have power, at least you should feel or hear some thing like motor humming or trying to turn jerking, etc. If it is dead silent, indeed switch may not be making a contact when you push it.
If you have not already done so, I'd also be checking the interlock switch(s) on the door.
The switch has another function and has three prongs. I tried to do a continuity test but I got strange (to me) results and I don't know exactly what I'm doing.
Here's the switch. It actually has 4 prongs but one isn't used.
Anyone know how to test a switch like this? It's a "on" switch by pushing it. Twisting turns the cycle buzzer on/off.
Jim
Jim:
If there's no response at all from the dryer as a result of trying to turn it on I'd check the door switch.
Also, if this is an ELECTRIC dryer, there will be TWO fuses to it; each rated at 30 amps. If it's an electric dryer, and you only checked one fuse or breaker, it could be that the timer motor runs off power delivered via the other fuse or breaker, and that's what the problem is. A gas fired dryer will only have one fuse or breaker.
I figured out how to do a continuity test on the start switch, thermal fuse, timer and the door switch, All tested fine. Then I even hot wired the start switch and that didn't work. The dryer in now in the back of my truck and will be headed to the repair shop. I doesn't look good. I might be buying a new dryer tomorrow. :-(
What really pisses me is I wasted all that time testing the parts.
Thanks but I checked the thermal fuse. Also just about everything you can check with a multimeter.
It's a gas dryer.
Thanks all for the help.
Ca-ca happens... it's just your turn
OTOH, just think how happy you'd have been if the second thing you tested turned out to be some $6.00 part.
You didn't waste your time. What if you didn't bother to test the parts, and you hauled it in to the repair shop and it turned out to be the easiest thing possible?
Could be but I don't think you can get much for 6 bucks these days. Maybe a screw. Any suggestions? It's just sitting in my truck. I can run a extension cord to it. I'm guessing the motor or a part of the timer I don't understand.
Loose wire?? I've taken both back panels off and didn't see any thing unusual except some lint. My wife said the top was very hot before it went out but I'm not sure how hot it gets during normal operation. They were using it a lot because we were having a pool party and they were drying the towels.
Jim
Yeah...there is that. :-)
I can understand why all the YouTube videos say to check the door switch first. I wonder how much they charge to swap out that tiny little switch? $100?
Almost as bad as Firestone charging me $20 dollars labor to change my cabin filter.
On 9/21/2014 5:08 PM, gonjah wrote: My wife said the top was very hot before it
Not sure about Ropers, but GE has two or three thermal cutouts.
Sears parts web site, might provide you with exploded diagram.
Sounds like a clogged discharge, and over heated. Towels throw a lot of fuzzies.
. Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus
My thought is it's some problem with overheating. I looked at the blowups and they only show the thermal fuse. You might be thinking of the thermostat, but it doesn't cause the unit to shut down (If I understand it correctly).
Another part that might be out is the pulley idle switch but I can't find it on the blow-ups or parts list.
Here's the blow-ups I'm using.
I'm going to take it off of my truck and play with it for awhile.
On that web site, I noted a cycling thermostat, thermal fuse, and high limit cutout. Look under bulkhead parts.
With clogged exhaust, and load of towels, any of these could be your problem.
. Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus
OK thanks but the cycling thermostat will only cause the heat not to come on. The drum should still turn. I'm checking it anyway.
I just checked the thermal fuse again. It's fine.
I'll be interested in the high limit cutout. I'll check back in awhile.
Those all check out fine. Anything associated with "thermostats" shouldn't stop the machine from running anyway.
BTW: I happen to notice I am getting juice to the thermal fuse because I got a little shock when I forgot to unplug the machine. I'm not sure how telling that is.
I got out my dryer repair manual. Says Roper made by whirlpool. Which is good news, they are simple and cheap to fix.
So you plug it in, turn the dial, push the button and the drum does not tumble? Is that what I gather?
I went back and read your messages "doesn't start" means drum doesn't tumble?
Might be a bad run cap on the drive motor?
Belt came off the motor, and now the motor spins freely?
Detail: What means "running"?
Means the clothes come out wet and cold after some tumbling?
. Christopher A. Young Learn about Jesus
Right. Drum turns no heat.
Mine is just not coming on at all.
But....(some)juice is going to the thermal fuse.
Only thing after that is the pulley switch and the motor and I have no idea if this machine has a pulley switch. I can't find it in the machine or the blowups.
The timer is a bit more complicated than switches and fuses. I've given it a continuity test and it passed but I'm still not certain it's working properly.
Jim
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