Mine sure doesn't. There is a big change in the shower handle
position between summer and winter. When I lived in VT we were lucky
it came out liquid in the winter. ;-) The frost line often went down
7' and not all water lines did. Since we had a domestic hot water
coil in the boiler, the hot water temperature varied quite a lot too.
Same here. But ours isn't due to ground temperature, but the storage
temperature of the water tanks. During the summer, don't need much hot
water at all for a shower, during the winter, we need to turn down the cold
If the water is coming out of a well, then the temperature is going to be
pretty constant year-round. In general, that means cold. When I was
growing up, I'd see pictures of kids on TV running through sprinklers having
a grand old time. I'd try that (on a farm with well water) and I'd last for
a couple dashes through the water before I had to give up. I think our
water was about 60 degrees. It wasn't fun.
There is never a situation where having more rounds is a disadvantage
Because you're on a deep well not because the lines are down' 7-8'.
The ground temperature isn't constant (in northern climes) even 20'
down. OTOH, at 400', and in the water table, it will be fairly
Incorrect as usual. Do a little research on "geo-thermal" HVAC systems
and get back to us. They make use of the fact that groundwater is, in
fact, a constant 55 degrees. They don't drill to 400 feet to get that,
either. It's the same temp in New Mexico as it is in Rochester, New
Well you have to also consider and I have had to factor this in before. If
the unit is old you must admit it may be on borrowed time, may be not. But
if you wait till it fails the food is going to be a costly factor added to
the cost of replacement if you don't catch the problem quickly enough. You
really never consider that angle till it happens.
The best available freezers 30 years ago were within percentages of
the efficiency of the run-of-the-mill freezer available toda, and the
difference from the poorest to the best today is something like 7%.
Thirty years ago, foam insulation was already becoming standard on the
The vast majority of today's PREMIUM units will be in the scrapyard in
20 years or less. Many don't last more than 10 years. The cheap stuff
is even worse. They may still cool, but the shelves are falling out
and the doorseals are leaking, and they piddle on the floor like a 6
week old puppy.
In UK in the late 1950s already, when I was becoming seriously
interested in photography, I don't think any American cameras were
considered high quality. The really good stuff was Leica (German) and
Hasselblad (Swedish? -- both mucho expensivo). Praktica (E. German) was
OK. Some of the Japanese brands were coming onto the market, IIRC. I'm
not sure that Kodak was considered a serious photographer's camera.
As another poster said. They make what we ask them to make, or they make
what we will buy. I think the latter is the truer statement. If everybody
who said (myself included) "I am sick of buying cheap crap from China"
actually stopped buying cheap crap from China. They would make better crap.
How do we all stop buying stuff made in China. I have no idea. While
picking up the family Christmas cards at Wal-Mart tonight the kids wanted
Santa hats. $1.50 a piece - made in China. I bought 2, my Dunkins this
morning cost more.
To the poster who mentioned about how Japanese made used to be a joke. When
I was a kid, I am 46 now, my dad owned a NAPA store. I can remember the
comments when a customer came in to purchase parts for a Datsun or a Toyota.
The joke was the price of the replacement part would double the value of the
car. Not so much anymore.
Then the pendulum swung the other way and Japanese products were
considered the best (cameras, electronics, etc) when, in fact, they
were no more great than when they were considered crap. I had a
closet full of dead Japanese stuff that barely made it to warranty.
Perception is a lot of it.
The price thing about car parts is a little more complicated. When
Japanese cars first hit our shores, parts were insane. $600 for one
CV joint for a Civic. Later, aftermarket mfrs/rebuilders got
into the act and drove prices waaaay down. I bought a PAIR of rebuilt
joints for the same car for $125. Later, when rebuilding a Honda
alternator, I got Honda parts cheaper from the dealer than the local
discount parts store. Pays to shop around.
During the 60s, I was involved with bearing applications for
automotive electrical systems.
There are more basic 203 ball bearings manufactured than all the rest
of the bearing sizes combined.
Had the guy representing Japanese bearings come calling with some
impressive stats as well as very attractive pricing.
As a bearing supplier competitor remarked, "First the bearings, then
the alternator, vacuum sweeper, etc."
Took about 15-20 years, but they got there.
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