Replaced ignition cylinder

Some time back I posted a query about the issue of having to jiggle the ignition switch on the old '98 Chebby pickumup to Clare as to whether symptomatic of key or lock. Suggested lock if key works in door; turns out did so finally(!) got the round tuit and swapped out for new cylinder this afternoon.

Works quite well but the annoyance factor is quite high in the doing it phase with the fact GM didn't split the top/bottom halves of the cover around the switch until at least '99 as the earliest--this thing has to be prized off over the key cylinder in place which is no treat. Plus, there's a two-piece stud holding the top LH side in place that turns but doesn't release that a video shows was replaced by a long single fastener later as well...

But, aggravation aside, can report is done and thanks! for the diagnostic info so knew which way to go. Don't recall having had another wear to this extent to being such a pain altho have had many vehicles far older than this...dunno why this one was so hard. A couple times in town wasn't sure was ever going to get it to turn -- about 2-3 full minutes of messing around was finally the straw to send me to NAPA last week! :)

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Reply to
dpb
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I don't recall the years, but wasn't GM having a lot of switch problems ?

One cause was that people had many keys and things on the same key ring as the ignition switch.

Reply to
Ralph Mowery

In my limited un-expert experience - Saturn had a lot of problems with sloppy ignition / key . very early on - and for several years .. My wife's 2013 Jetta has displayed sticky ignition key problems for quite a while - now at ~ 200 k km . One thing that was mentioned as a possible cause - - heavy key-ring stuff - And parking with the steering wheel cocked so you need to force the key ... John T.

Reply to
hubops

  The proper thing to do in the case of steering wheel tension is to turn the wheel to take the tension off before you turn the key . Duh . That said , my daughter used to have a '99 (IIRC) Camaro (Firebird ?) that kept having problems removing the key . It was finally traced back to her spilling sodas on the  console . Those sodas gummed up the shifter/ignition interlock cable to the point it was basically frozen in position . Cleaned that up and the problem disappeared .
Reply to
Terry Coombs

At one time you could pull the key out of seveal cars with it running. Dad had a 1950 Chevy that you could pull the key out with the switch in one position and then turn the switch on and you had to push a buttonon the dash to start it.. Now you have to hav a FOB to do about the same thing.

Reply to
Ralph Mowery

I get a recall notice every few months for my 2003 Impala. Supposed to be for the ignition switch. As I recall it was for heavy key rings wearing out the switch. Don't have a heavy key ring, and have no problem.

Reply to
Vic Smith

GM has had an issue with this for decades> It is made much worse when you have a heavy ring of keys hanging from the cyl.

Reply to
Clare Snyder

A lot of OLD chevies had that feature". You could remove the key and still sdtart or shut off the car - as long as it was not in the "lock" position - where a key was required. Identifying these was easy - the key fit into a slot in what was basically a "knob" that could be turnrd with your fingers.

Reply to
Clare Snyder

You are lucky, on my 69 Corvette, you needed to remove the steering wheel and these days that involves the air bag, not something you want to be screwing with. I also took the new one to a locksmith and had it keyed to my original key so the door and ignition were the same. I was having problems with my honda and I went to the dealer and had a new key cut from the spec, not copying the blank. It worked a whole lot better. My old key just seemed to be worn. The more I used it the better it got and now it is like silk again.

Reply to
gfretwell

The mid 50s GM had a lock and an unlocked position on the ignition. (My dad's 56 Chevy) It was lock, unlocked and start. You could pull the key out in the unlocked position and run the car normally without a key. The government or the insurance companies made that go away. Late 60's Chryslers had a hole in the lock cylinder you could stick a paper clip in and pull the cylinder with it locked. Then anything would turn the doodad inside. When my buddy lost the key to his 68 van at the beach, I popped the cylinder, knocked all the wafers out and reinstalled it. Any key would work after that.

Reply to
gfretwell

I think that was the recall about the car turning off because the detent was too short and a heavy key ring would rotate the cylinder out of "run".

Reply to
gfretwell

On 8/25/2019 6:13 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote: ...

I don't recall if it was GM or another, but I do recall there being some some cases where apparently excess weight on key rings turned vehicles off while driving.

I've had nothing but GM w/ exception of one Chrysler and one CRX Toyota in last 50 years and never had the problem nor a recall notice for the problem so if it was GM it was some make/model different than full-size Chevy trucks or Chevy/Olds/Buick. Never had any smaller models so anything different with them know nothing about.

Reply to
dpb

On 8/25/2019 8:11 PM, Clare Snyder wrote: ...

As an earlier reply noted, I've had only GM w/ two minor exceptions for

50 years and this is the first time I've ever had one do this. The old 55 Ford is only time I recall ever having it happen and that was some 50+ yr ago now.

There's nothing on the key ring but PO box key and one house key and a tiny one for the toolbox in the bed so there's no big ring on it...this is, however, about the only one I've had that I haven't had since it was either new or very nearly so--I didn't buy this one until it already had almost 90K on it so I don't know how the prior owner may have treated it. That could be contributing factor.

Reply to
dpb

Thpse middle aged GM switches were a royal pain in the you-know-where. I ended up making a plate compressor several times over the years - and have used a 3/4" drive socket as a puller too.

Cutting from code is definitrly the preferred method. Used to "nibble" a LOT of Toyota keys 30 to 40 years ago

Reply to
Clare Snyder

The deal on the 69 Vette was once you get the wheel off and I think one more cover, there was a little web of metal you punch out with a screwdriver and then you can depress the locking bolt (looks like the latch on a interior domestic lock set). The new one just pushes in.

Reply to
gfretwell

On 8/25/2019 9:40 PM, dpb wrote: ...

"...nothing but GM w/ exception of one Chrysler and one CRX Toyota..."

Which shows how little paid attention. :) The Honda CRX was a fun little thing to drive the 30 mi to/from Kingston Steam Plant when the EPRI I&C office was there...found it for about $1500 'cuz insurance had totaled it out. The guy bought it back and did the repair himself and still came out better. It served me well until the move back to farm--it would _not_ have been a good dirt road vehicle at all...

Reply to
dpb

Yes, that's it.

Reply to
Vic Smith

My Hyundai Getz does dirt roads fine.

Reply to
Rod Speed

Dunno what that is nor what its ground clearance is..the CRX would been ok if they always were dry and graded but stiff enough to shake your teeth out when washboardy as are most of the time and way too low when muddy...

Reply to
dpb

The "flash" in the die-casting was far from universal. I'd say less than half of the ones I had to remove had the slot covered with a film of zinc alloy - and some so thin you could ALMOST see through it.

Reply to
Clare Snyder

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