[[image:Lock cylinder 5411-2.jpg|250px]]
New lock cylinders are only £1 or so for basic ones, so rekeying is
*making master keyed locks
making identically keyed locks
*rekeying higher cost cylinders
rekeying cylinders when you have many identical keys with no usable
cylinder(s) for them.
The process takes around 5 minutes for pin reversal rekeying, or upto
10 if making a lock fit an existing set of [[Key cutting|keys]].
[[image:Lock cylinder pins 5412-2.jpg|250px]]
How a lock cylinder works: the right key raises all the pins to the
height at which the break in each pin stack lines up with the key
barrel/body shear line, and the key barrel can thus rotate.
Remove the capping strip on top of the pins. Exactly how varies with
the lock: most capping strips can just be levered off, sometimes the
sides bent over them can be bent back.
Keep the cylinder upright so the many pingfckits don't fall out. Cover
them all with a finger, and turn the cylinder upside down while you've
uncovered one pin stack at a time, so they come out in a known order.
Put them on cardboard on a level plate, the cardboard ridges keep the
pin stacks in order, and the raised plate edges stop them rolling
away. Don't lose any of the pingfckits.
Put the pin stacks back in their new order. Its vital to know how the
order has been changed, or you won't be able to cut a new key or match
an existing key to the lock. The rounded end of each pin is the end
that lands on the key.
When cutting new keys, going from 12345 to 54321 is the easiest change
when it comes to [[key cutting]], as they keys can simply be
[[clamp]]ed together in opposite directions.
When fitting a lock to existing keys, insert the key, and for each pin
hole, test pins to see which works with the key. You'll usually need a
2nd lock for more donor pins to suit. You'll notice that any pin equal
to or shorter than needed will let the thing turn if its dropped in on
its own, but once the rest of the pin stack is fitted, only the right
length pin will work.
[[image:Lock cylinder wired shut 5413-2.jpg|250px]]
Refit the capping strip. How this was attached originally varies
* sometimes the edge of the cylinder body is bent over it
the capping strip can be [[glue]]d over
* 0.45mm [[iron wire]] was used in the photo
If you've reversed the pin order, [[Key cutting|cut new keys]] to fit,
using the old key as a template. [[Clamp]] new and old keys like so
Measure from the shoulder to the first pin landing, mark this same
distance onto the new [[Key cutting|key blank]], and line this up with
the landing nearest the tip on the old key.
See [[Key cutting]] for full info.
How a master keyed scheme works (on an example 6 pin cylinder):
#pins 1-5 are the same pattern for all the locks
#pin stack 6 has 2 break points, one that differs for each lock, plus
one that's the same for all the locks.
#Keys that use the variable position breakpoint on pin 6 only open one
#Keys that use the identical position breakpoint on pin 6 open all the
Master keyed schemes are a good deal less secure for a given number of
pins than conventional keying. 5 pin cylinders aren't recommended for
To make a master type pin, cut a pin with a thin [[die grinder]] disc,
losing as little material as possible, and round off one end like the
existing pins. Deburr the cut top end.
These toddlerproof [[Category:Security|locks]] enable any adult that
knows what to do to open the lock, but prevents nuisance access by
toddlers. The locks can be opened easily with over 50% of random keys
that fit the keyway, or a small [[screwdriver]] etc. If you use a
[[Key cutting|1A keyway cylinder]], almost anyone can open it with
their own keys.
Old cylinders with no matching key are converted to toddlerproof locks
by removing all pins except the front-most one. If a random inserted
key doesn't work, pull it out a click and try again. Each key gives
you 5 or 6 goes.
* [[:Category:Security|More key & lock articles]]
* [[Key cutting]]
* [[Special:Categories|Wiki Subject Categories]]