I suppose filling in the form for an information request is one way.
Stopping payment to the utility company might get the meter removed but they
might reuse the lock for the blanking cover on the pan and cut the drop at
Assuming you do mean the ring and not the lock, I too use a 4 inch grinder.
The ring is "C" shaped and a little tricky getting the back side. I grind it
down, but not through, then use a medium screw driver to chisel it apart. If
you cut to deep, you can damage the metal band that holds the glass to the
meter or break the glass. Utility companies have a lock breaker for these,
but it doesn't always work
It partly depends on where you live, I have found. When I had my
service upgraded the electrician cut mine off with impunity. He used
a large pair of side cutters. A small bolt cutter will do. It passed
inspection with no problem. The electric co-op has been on the
property since and they don't seem to mind.
So if you are worried then call the company like the others said. But
if you are an outlaw then cut that thing off and leave the details for
a someone else to worry about.
If you are confronted you can just act stupid. It is very hard to
prove someone is not stupid, :)
Sounds like a legitimate reason to have it removed by the power company.
Have you contacted them? I don't know where you live, but in New Jersey
there are laws against meter tampering and cutting off the lock may be
construed as such.
We had exactly the same project. Of course we didn't need no stinkin'
inspections or permits.*
In my town (Houston), call the light company. Their standard is to remove
the ring within six hours after the call. When done with the work, call them
back. They'll replace the ring within 48 hours.
Evidently (I don't know for sure), the power company records the reading at
ring-removal time and again at ring-replacement time - just to keep you
*I always thought our town, with no zoning, was pretty cool. Now I'm
FEMA delivered six medical trailers, each capable of handling up to nine
non-emergency patients simultaneously, to New Orleans a year ago. Plans were
to install these trailers at six different schools to provide routine care
during the doctor shortage and take the load off the few remaining emergency
rooms. LSU is ready to supply physicians, nurses, and support personnel,
along with equipment and supplies.
The trailers are still in storage.
They've been waiting for over a year for zoning variances which are expected
to become final in the next 60 days.
This meter is on a house built in 1949. I'm trying to do some upgrades
without opening a large can of worms. The meter and boxes are mounted on
wood and the riser has wood blocks between it and the brick wall. All
rotten. Might try to just cut the wires to the weather head, make the
repairs and reconnect the wires. Was going to remove the meter to kill power
so I could replace the cut off switch and fuse box. (Plug fuses.) Don't want
to get into rewiring the house. My problem is, what if I have to replace the
wires coming out of the meter box. They are a bit short. No way I can get in
there without removing the meter.
It sounds as though your service needs to be replaced. If you are going to
go through all of the trouble to replace the main and fuse box, you could
just as easily do the whole service. Do you have any pictures of this
Consider that these are service wires. Aside from shock hazard there is
a major hazard from high current in a short circuit. There is probably
5,000-10,000 Amps available for a short circuit - that can make large
screwdrivers disappear, depositing melted steel and vaporized copper on
you. And there is minimal fusing on the utility side. Special rules
apply to installing service wires because of the hazard. Those rules
apply through the service disconnect.
Working in a meter socket with the top powered is very hazardous.
Resplicing cut service wires at the weatherhead is also hazardous. You
particularly don't want an aluminum ladder. The utility will use a
'hi-press' splice - a sleeve with the wires inserted in each end. The
sleeve is then compressed at high presure which cold-welds the metals
resulting in a very reliable connection. You probably don't have access
to this equipment.
Contact the utility and see what is involved in having them cut the
wires at the weatherhead and reconnect them. The work may have to be
inspected. In some areas that may require an electrician. Having the
utility cut and reconnect the wires is by far the best idea. They would
also remove the ring. The utility may take a very dim view of you
removing the ring without contacting them - it suggests theft.
I have pulled a few meters, Whats one to do when a fuse falls apart in
the main, cant work with it powered on. Pulled meter, did my thing
replaced meter, called power company.
they said no trouble as long as you let them know. this was before the
remote reading meters.
I think they lose a lot of security, but the manpower savings well
they basically dont care........
DO TALK TO POWER COMPANY BEFORE PROCEEDING!
At least here, those type locking rings are only installed on
meters that have shown evidence of tampering. A normal ring just
has a light weight one-time snap ring. If you cut it loose for
your work, you will get the locking ring. Either way, removal
requires the power company. Here they will only work with a
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
I have never seen a ring like that. The ones I have seen just have a
thin hardened wire with the lead or plastic crimped ID tag. Those are
easy to cut and remove. I have removed mine several times to do work
on my system. I always planned to tell the power company there was an
emergency of some sort or other. However, I just always put the ring
back and place the cut tag on the ring "lock". Sooner or later the
power company comes out to check the wires or something and I end up
with a new "ID lock". I have never been questioned about it.
As to removing that one, I could think of lots of ways to remove it.
As others said, and angle grinder. Also, a hacksaw, carbide drill bit
thru the lock itself, bolt cutter (maybe), and if you are a real good
shot and fit the title of redneck, a rifle would do the job <lol>.
DO NOT try to splice the wires at the head when they are LIVE. Thats
crazy. It would be wiser to have a tree suddenly fall from the sky
and bust your meter, if you get the hint.
If I was in your shoes, I'd use the angle grinder, hacksaw or drill
and make up a story about an emergency. Since you found that website
that sells these rings, you could always buy a new one from them too,
buy it before you do the job, and maybe even get a key to fit your old
On Sun, 11 Mar 2007 07:50:42 -0600, paulking@__none__.com wrote:
This looks like a good place to jump in. Some years ago some wit used
a plastic pen barrel to open high security hardened steel bicycle
locks. (The company had to do a recall and replace with redesigned
locks). You might want to do a websearch on this article or video and
see if that will work for you.
As one firefighter I hope you find that is bad advice. Any fire service
personnel That would help you bypass the security looks on a utility
installation need to have their annual medical moved up with a request
for a psych evaluation.
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