In this case I believe the "inverter" is basically a switch mode power
supply to do away with the heavy transformer traditionaly used in
microwaves. Think of the PSU in your computer. As another poster mentions,
this does allow for finer power control but I never need that degree of
control in our cooking. And I've read complaints of invert failures. For
me, simple is better.
An inverter is a switched SWITCHED POWER SUPPLY.
More efficiency less weight, no big expensive power transformer.
A magnetron has to be run full power. You just turn it on an off as needed.
In troubleshooting my brothers microwave, I forgot the exact steps we took.
Ended up wasting money before finding out transformer was bad.
Technically, probably yes. But, there are some obvious
problems. One is, there are a lot of things that could cause
it to stop heating, only one of which is the magnetron.
Figuring out which it is, unless you have the suitable
skills, schematics, etc will require a tech, service fee, etc.
The second is that if it is the magnetron, what does a new
one cost? Could very likely be buckoo bucks. Generally,
given the cost of a new regular microwave, it's not worth
screwing around with. But since this is part of a built-in
JennAire, I feel your pain.
I think that's unlikely. If it were that simple, could mix
and match other companies products into that JennAir
frame. For some odd reason, JennAir doesn't want you
to be able to do that.....
I had an even older JennAir oven/microwave combo.
I did a mini makeover of the kitchen and got rid of it.
It was still working, but was outdated. So, I found a
Kitchenaid double oven on Ebay. It was a floor model,
but in perfect condition except for some sale stickers.
That unit retailed for $3000. I got it for $1200. It was
also a 30", which is a good thing, where the existing was 27".
I had to carefully scope out the cabinet situation where
it was going. And I had to cut apart the cabinet to make it
fit. Including taking the cabinet from above to a cabinet
shop and having them cut several inches off the bottom.
But it came out great. Looks 1000% better.
I also like the idea of double ovens a lot more than the
built-in microwaves. The look much nicer, are a selling
point for kitchens today. And from what I have seen,
the microwaves from the major kitchen appliance/oven
manufacturers cost $1000 and suck compared to the
$100 countertop model. They tend to be no larger,
more confusing controls, don't heat as well. If the $100
one goes, you just buy another.
Just some things to consider. Maybe you should buy
a countertop one and look for a great deal on a new
Part labelled "H.V. Diode". Next to the magnetron, about 7 o'clock from the
magnatron. Goes to case ground, like my last post suggested.
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
BTW, here's a full-size schematic where I'm looking for the
thermal switch and fuses.
That looks more like a "block diagram" than a schematic. If you didn't
find a folded up paper schematic tucked inside somewhere, then go online
and find one. I've read other responses, but I'm sticking with a faulty
thermal cutoff as most likely culprit.
I have repaired a number of microwaves that I have owned. First is check the
fuse, I have had a number go for no reason. Replace it and you are good
again until it blows again in a few years. Second check the micro switches
on the door latches, they interlock for safety, if one fails the oven will
not work. There sometimes are three of them, some normally open and some
normally closed, check them with a meter.
Beyond that I have had one that burnt out a thin wire that carried about 13
amps, and then needed another part, it was cheaper to replace it than repair
I've found microwaves tend to have a high voltage diode, and a high voltage
capacitor. Both are known to go bad. I've repaired several microwave ovens,
and it's been these two parts.
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
This Jenn-Air (model M170B) 1,350 Watt microwave just stopped heating:
I called Jenn-Air customer support who said there's no troubleshooting for
when it doesn't heat. They said the magnetron may need to be replaced:
Jenn-Air 800-536-6247 Customer Care
A replacement microwave oven has to fit over the electric oven:
Interestingly, (since it was above the oven) the back sticker says:
"May be built into a cabinet structure, but not for use adjacent
to (with 2 feet of) any gas or electric range, cooktop or oven."
But, that sticker also says:
This microwave is approved for mounting directly over Jenn-Air
wall ovens as follows:
W2700 Series Using MK271 Trim Kit, W3000 Series Using MK301 Trim Kit
Having never worked on a microwave, I ask what the conventional wisdom is.
Q: Is it generally feasible to replace just the magnetron?
Q: Will similarly sized microwave ovens fit (22" widex13"tallx15" deep)?
Q: Is it generally best to stick within the same brand? (e.g., JMC1116AB)?
"When it doesn't heat..." Do you mean the microwave does everything else
EXCEPT heat the contents? That is does if LOOK like it's working, turntable
goes round, light comes on, timer works? If so, replacing the magnetron is a
good first guess.
I say this because the other stuff is governed by a printed circuit board
that has three to ten dodgy electrolytic capacitors on it. Replacing these
capacitors is pretty easy and pretty cheap.
Could be the magnetron, altho the usual failure is a gradual decrease
in power output so thing take longer and longer to get hot. If you
can locate the two wires going to the magnetron filament, you should
see someting less than 100 ohms for the filament. But, you have to
disconnect one wire from the filament to the power transformer before
you check the filament or you will just see the resistance of the
transformer and not the filament of the magnetron.
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