I've got a 5-1/2 year old Jenn-Air side-by-side fridge. We recently noticed
that the right door (refrigerator side) is misaligned with the frame to the
point that there is a gap in the seal towards the bottom in the center
This isn't about the seal being compressed differently as you work around the
door: the metal-to-metal distance is much greater at the bottom than the top,
measured as you're closing the fridge.
As far as I can tell, the only adjustments that I can make are (1) the leveling
screws at the bottom front and (2) the top hinge adjustment. Playing around
with these doesn't solve the problem.
Any suggestions? I don't see anything else to adjust and don't understand how
this could have happened, as I wouldn't expect metal to warp.
Thanks in advance!
Tom in PA
I've got a Jenn-Air fridge of about the same vintage.
repairclinic.com has the repair manual for my fridge (as well as most of
the parts!). $20.
Post your model number - if my manual applies to your model, I can tell
you what the manual says.
OK, that model is covered by my manual, although it's a different model
than mine. Section 3, Cabinet and Related Components, pages 3-2 to 3-4.
There's not a whole lot here, but it looks like both hinges are
somewhat adjustable. The picture mentioned only shows the location of
the magnetic strips, outside of the balloon seal.
Here's what's in the manual. Good luck.
To enhance its appearance and maintain efficient performance, the
refrigerator should be level. The front wheels were adjusted at the
factory so the doors were properly aligned and the cabinet level.
However, jarring in transit, or standing the refrigerator on uneven
floors may cause the doors to shift out of alignment. If front
alignment is necessary, adjust the wheel with a hex head driver.
Clockwise raises the cabinet, counter-clockwise lowers the cabinet.
If front wheels are not adjustable, use leveling legs to level.
The drawing shows a view of the magnetic door seal used on all models
mentioned in this manual. The magnetic strips are attracted to the
metal cabinet front, providing an excellent seal around the entire
door. A visual inspection of the door seal while opening and closing
will reveal any areas of poor seal. You will notice a slight
expwansion and compression of the seal bellows as the door is opened
Toe-in & Toe-out Adjustments
To seal evenly around the entire door, the seal must make contact at
the top and bottom at the same time. For this reason, the door, when
ajar, should not toe-in or toe-out. To correct a toe-in or toe-out
condition, first check that the hinge-side of the door is parallel
with the cabinet, then proceed as follows:
1) Check the cabinet levelers and adjustable wheels. Raising
the handle side may correct a toe-out; lowering may correct a
2) Loosen all inner panel mounting screws along the top,
bottom and handle side of the door. Do not loosen the screws
along the hinge side.
3) Hold the corner that toes-in stationary, and push in on the
toe-out corner until the door is lined parallel with the
4) Open and close the door several times to ensure a proper
fit. If necessary, repeat steps 2 and 3.
5) Tighten all loosened screws.
Hinge adjustments are necessary when:
1) The seal is not sealed sufficiently along the hinge side of
2) The seal is compressed more than 1/16" on the hinge side
(causing a poor seal elsewhere around the top.)
3) The distance between the door and cabinet is greater at the
top than it is at the bottom, or vice versa.
4) The hinge side of the door is not 1/16" out past the side
of the cabinet (when measured from the side of the cabinet),
or when the door panel top is not 7/64" above the cabinet top.
5) If one or more of these conditions exist, adjust one or
both hinges to correct the trouble. Raising the hinge side
may correct a door sag.
The cabinet door on all models is in correct alignment when:
1) The hinge side of the door is an equal distance from the
cabinet flange at the top and bottom.
2) The gasket seals smoothly and is compressed no more than
1/16" along the hinge side with the door closed.
3) The door lines up with the side of the cabinet (viewed from
the front). The door panel is parallel with the cabinet top.
In many cases, leveling the refrigerator will eliminate the need for
cabinet door adjustments. Ensure that the refrigerator is plumb by
checking all edges as well as both sides of the cabinet with a
firstname.lastname@example.org (Vmcw) wrote in message
The manual for your model won't come up on the JennAir web site, but I
found one close with some installtion tips and such that may help with
In the "Customer Care" section
Appliance Repair Aid
OK, I'm making progress. I loosened the screws behind the gasket and retighted
while putting some 'twist' on the door. Helped a lot! The bad news is now the
gasket doesn't want to seat up against the plastic on the inside of the door.
Is that fixable or have I deformed it to the point of needing a new gasket?
Thanks! Tom in PA
I don't think that I could take a meaningful photo. The problem is that, when
you measure the gasket width with the door open (so there's no pressure on it)
it's thinner at the top. I assume that it became more compressed over time as
the top of the door (handle side) was closer to the frame than the bottom. So
now that the door has been aligned so that the door to frame distance is about
the same, top and bottom, the gasket connects at the bottom but not at the top.
Ooops! I just posted a rely to the 'can you include a photo' question that's
not going to make any sense. I currently have two problems:
(1) gasket doesn't connect with frame at top of door, as explained in previous
(2) gasket doesn't connect with 'inner' part of door (plastic piece with
shelves' at all points.
I'll try the hair dryer thing for (2) and maybe try tweaking the door frame
some more for (1).
Tom in PA
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