Pool Jandy valve - is there a way to repair (especially crowded)

[Vic Smith]

Those are "old" tools. I bought one almost 40 years ago and used if often enough. That one was one-piece, ratcheting, just for slotted screws When you need it, you're glad you have it. I don't have any now, including the ones I linked to. Haven't missed them, but I hardly do anything any more. Most stuff is engineered now to not require an offset screwdriver on a fastener.

"Special" tools are kind of always in there own category in those terms. But I hear you about the thickness. Those multi-bit offsets wouldn't get on some of the screws I used my old one on. It could get into a space half the height the new ones can. Something like the offsets here, but a little thicker.

But mine was a Craftsman, and cheap to buy. Looks like they don't sell them anymore. Just like nailspinners.

[Arklin K.]

BTW, at Home Depot, a 2" PVC ball valve is about $11 while a Jandy valve is $90 (plus about $9 tax).

What's different?

I am calling Zodiac systems [phone] technical support ("our call volume is high") and have been on hold for fifteen minutes. I'll wait but I wonder if anyone here knows WHAT the heck is the difference?

Should I just go with a cheaper ball valve?

[Vic Smith]

Never saw that tool. Looks useful.

[Arklin K.]

Nope. You're wholly correct.

The valve that cracked is the one that sits closest to the ground. The surrounding valves sit up higher.

The reason, apparently, this one sits in the worst position possible is that there is a PIPE directly above it!

Why they made these pipes like the overpasses and underpasses in NYC is beyond me. Another problem is you can't easily get to it because there is a retaining wall less than a foot on the other side. I can get my arms in there - but not much else lying sideways on the ground in that foot of space.

I'm really really starting to like the idea someone suggested of the Plast-Aid acrylic. I finally got through to Jandy (Zodiac) asking what the materials are.

CPVC -> chlorinated poly vinyl chloride

[Arklin K.]

Jandy is sending me a new never-lube ball valve (I'm on the phone with them right now) under warranty (the PO registered the pool equipment).

Which one do I want?

The one where the pipe goes inside the valve or the one where the pipe goes outside the valve?

[Arklin K.]

Ah. Thanks for the advice. The standard ball valve from Home Depot was about 11 bucks while the Jandy valve is three to eight times that price.

But, as you said, the typical ball valve is stiff while the Jandy valve is smooth.

I guess the good news for anyone replacing a Jandy valve is that the lifetime warrantee extends to the next pool owner.

I received mine in about a week after proving to them the crack existed (using pictures over email).

Thanks for the advice.

[Arklin K.]

UPDATE:

The pool is filling (I decided NOT to wash it this time because the plaster was sitting dry for far too long).

Next time I'll be ready to wash it now that I know the gray is the plaster, the pretty blue is a copper stain, and the scratchy white is calcium grains due to lousy pool chemistry.

Maybe with better pool chemistry, I can actually get rid of the sandy white calcium and pretty blue stain over time without having to re-drain the pool!

Here's a shot of the pool filling up ...

Here's one of the repaired pipes with the new Jandy valve: And, here's a closeup of the re-routing of the pipes: I'm not a plumber - I just DIY with your help ... so if you have any final advice on the repair ... let me know so I learn for the 'next' time.

I can't start it up yet (water needs to be at the level of the skimmers) so I won't know if the screw-tight coupling will hold the pressure (50 psi?) coming out of the cleaner pump or not.

[Arklin K.]

Here is a view of the Jandy never-lube two-port valve with the top rotated correctly for the inlet side:

And, here is the view with the top rotated incorrectly for the inlet side: In summary, these appear to be the things I learned about the Jandy valve: a) The valve is guarranteed for life (I simply showed them a picture of the crack and they sent a new one) b) It doesn't seem to matter if you get the smaller valve (where the pipe fits OVER the ends) or the larger one (where the pipe fits INSIDE the ends) c) It doesn't matter much if it's horizontal or vertical but Jandy (aka Zodiac) prefers the vertical position for leakage prevention d) It won't matter much if it's hooked up wrong - but - the INLET side should be facing the pressure side of the pipes e) If you do need to flip the valve, Jandy suggests you also flip the top cap and inner valve so that the INLET is maintained f) The proper orientation is for the pressure side to face the concave end of the flap and the rubber sealed convex side to face the pool

[Arklin K.]

ooops. Correction.

c) It doesn't matter much if it's horizontal or vertical but Jandy (aka Zodiac) prefers the HORIZONTAL position for leakage prevention