OT - Full Size Spare - Or Is It?

Had my car broken into twice. One time they took a quart of oil in the back seat.. Second time the glove box contents were on the floor.

Cars parked near me that were locked had broken windows, pry marks and some other damage. My brother lost a pair of sunglasses and had the convertible top slashed to get to them.

Reply to
Ed Pawlowski
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I don't understand the logic either. I believe they all kill the engine if the throttle or brake (or clutch) are touched.

We've had one. That was enough to cure me of that particular laziness.

Reply to
krw

Insisting they use the RIGHT one is the trick!!! and it is still possible to overtorque with the torque stick - they just have to be a bit stupider and try a bit harder.

Reply to
clare

Center hole diameter

Reply to
clare

In the road salt parts of the world, it's necessary to lube the door locks at least a couple times a year. WD-40 is better than nothing. I like Castle Thrust, or a syringe and some 10w30 motor oil.

When I used to work in a locksmith shop in the city, we'd replace door lock cylinders for people. The salt turns them into a lump of zinc and copper. And salt.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

A couple decades ago, I had a Dodge van, the rear wheels would not come off unless I used a torch. I finally chocked the front, took one rear wheel off, start the engine, and put it in reverse. Used a drill and grind stone to take down the hub a bit, until the wheels fit. And then did the same on the other side. No more propane torch to get the wheels off each time.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Call me lazy, but starting my vehicles from the warmth of my living room or office when there's ice on the windshield sure is convenient. I'll blow snow up and down my street for hours at a time, but I'd still rather go from a warm house to a warm car without having to run out in the cold to start it.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

Actually, I made a mistake in my first description. The torque sticks have an integral socket, and so will only fit on that size lug nut. That further reduces the possibility of selecting the wrong one.

Reply to
Larry W

I have a Code-Alarm brand. It locks the doors, then starts the car. Present car is a Hyundai Sonata with Blue Link. When I used it in the free trial period, it would not lock the doors, but it would not start the car until I did and I could do that remotely also.

I did not renew the overpriced Blue Link and opted to install my own remote.

In all cases, the engine would die it the brake pedal is pushed with no key.

In some towns around here you have to have your doors locked if the car is running unattended. That is the result of stolen cars where idiots would run out and start the car and leave the keys in it.

When I park the car at night I put the defroster on and the seat heater switch. Five minutes or so makes a nice head start.

Reply to
Ed Pawlowski

Where I was, it was illegal to have a car running, unattended, at any time. AIUI, the law was designed to keep tractor-trailers from running their engines all night but it was enforced against cars, too, though not often in residential areas, in front of people's homes.

I don't believe I've ever had a car where the window heaters weren't momentary buttons. I've never had seat heaters. I guess my wife's car does now but it'll never be used. ;-)

Reply to
krw

Oh, it was great, when it worked. When it didn't, she didn't get to work. If it was cold, it would flood the car and keep trying its stupid algorithm that got it there, until there was no battery left. We'd have to babysit it anyway, so it wasn't worth the trouble. After-market starters would also void the warrantee for starters and such.

Reply to
krw

My remote starters have always been after-market. Different brands, but they all worked the same way: three tries to start the car. After that, they gave up. That's what the manual said it would do, and that's how it worked the one time I "tested" that feature. I had a weak battery and the car wouldn't start. The remote tried three times and then quit. Maybe yours was defective.

The one time we had a problem with a remote starter was with my wife's car. Her car often take 2 tries if it's really cold. Towards the end of last winter, if the car stalled after the first start, the remote wouldn't turn the heater blower, lights or radio off or try to restart it. From some reason it assumed the car was running. After that happened a few times, I called the shop where we bought it 3 to 4 years prior and they replaced the module under the lifetime warranty. No problems since then. If the car stalls, the remote starts it again about 5 seconds later. It never takes more than 2 tries.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

Front defrost can be set, but the rear defrost is a momentary button so it cannot be set. I understand that some more costly remotes can be used to turn on secondary accessories. Some will even report back the internal temperature.

Seats vary. I've had different switches on the last three Sonatas I've had. The '07 and '13 will stay set, but the '10 had momentary switches. n this one the rear seat heaters can alxo be set to stay on, but I'd not do that.

Reply to
Ed Pawlowski

Not in my case. I checked Many dealers put them in too.

Reply to
Ed Pawlowski

In every car I've ever had, the heater controls stay set to the last settings used when the car is shut off...other than the rear defroster, that is.

We try to remember to turn the defrosters on and set the fans to high before we shut down for the night. I usually remember to do/check it when we take the dogs for their last walk of the night.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

I know a lot of dealers put them in. ...and it still voided the warrantee for any related failures.

Reply to
krw

They probably tie into the CAN. Seems possible, though it would require software for each car. Seems like a scary thing to do, too.

Reply to
krw

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