I tried my passenger door lock with a key a few weeks ago. I can barely get
the key in, never mind turn it. Power remote locks and/or the driver's door
key hole is all I've ever needed. Of course, I should fix it just in case
both of the other 2 methods go bad at the same time.
BTW...No remote starter that I've ever had, and I've had a number of them,
locked the doors. What's the point of that?
Call me lazy, but starting my vehicles from the warmth of my living room or
office when there's ice on the windshield sure is convenient. I'll blow
snow up and down my street for hours at a time, but I'd still rather go
from a warm house to a warm car without having to run out in the cold to
On Wed, 1 Jan 2014 15:00:26 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03
Oh, it was great, when it worked. When it didn't, she didn't get to
work. If it was cold, it would flood the car and keep trying its
stupid algorithm that got it there, until there was no battery left.
We'd have to babysit it anyway, so it wasn't worth the trouble.
After-market starters would also void the warrantee for starters and
My remote starters have always been after-market. Different brands, but
they all worked the same way: three tries to start the car. After that,
they gave up. That's what the manual said it would do, and that's how it
worked the one time I "tested" that feature. I had a weak battery and the
car wouldn't start. The remote tried three times and then quit. Maybe yours
The one time we had a problem with a remote starter was with my wife's car.
Her car often take 2 tries if it's really cold. Towards the end of last
winter, if the car stalled after the first start, the remote wouldn't turn
the heater blower, lights or radio off or try to restart it. From some
reason it assumed the car was running. After that happened a few times, I
called the shop where we bought it 3 to 4 years prior and they replaced the
module under the lifetime warranty. No problems since then. If the car
stalls, the remote starts it again about 5 seconds later. It never takes
more than 2 tries.
On 1/1/2014 12:22 AM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I have a Code-Alarm brand. It locks the doors, then starts the car.
Present car is a Hyundai Sonata with Blue Link. When I used it in the
free trial period, it would not lock the doors, but it would not start
the car until I did and I could do that remotely also.
I did not renew the overpriced Blue Link and opted to install my own remote.
In all cases, the engine would die it the brake pedal is pushed with no
In some towns around here you have to have your doors locked if the car
is running unattended. That is the result of stolen cars where idiots
would run out and start the car and leave the keys in it.
When I park the car at night I put the defroster on and the seat heater
switch. Five minutes or so makes a nice head start.
Where I was, it was illegal to have a car running, unattended, at any
time. AIUI, the law was designed to keep tractor-trailers from
running their engines all night but it was enforced against cars, too,
though not often in residential areas, in front of people's homes.
I don't believe I've ever had a car where the window heaters weren't
momentary buttons. I've never had seat heaters. I guess my wife's
car does now but it'll never be used. ;-)
On 1/1/2014 1:10 PM, email@example.com wrote:
Front defrost can be set, but the rear defrost is a momentary button so
it cannot be set. I understand that some more costly remotes can be
used to turn on secondary accessories. Some will even report back the
Seats vary. I've had different switches on the last three Sonatas I've
had. The '07 and '13 will stay set, but the '10 had momentary switches.
n this one the rear seat heaters can alxo be set to stay on, but I'd not
In every car I've ever had, the heater controls stay set to the last
settings used when the car is shut off...other than the rear defroster,
We try to remember to turn the defrosters on and set the fans to high
before we shut down for the night. I usually remember to do/check it when
we take the dogs for their last walk of the night.
In the road salt parts of the world, it's necessary
to lube the door locks at least a couple times a
year. WD-40 is better than nothing. I like Castle
Thrust, or a syringe and some 10w30 motor oil.
When I used to work in a locksmith shop in the city,
we'd replace door lock cylinders for people. The salt
turns them into a lump of zinc and copper. And salt.
I did that with my '01 Ranger. I specifically bought the "full sized
spare" option. "Full sized" meant that it was a 15" tire on a 15"
(steel) wheel, even though the truck had 16" aluminum wheels. IIRC,
the tires were 235R16s with the spare being a 215R15. It never came
off the tire sling.
I met up with my brother on the road trip that I rented the car for. When
the tire went low he lent me the portable air compressor he carries. It's
just like the kit you described. You can use it to top off a tire with air,
or you can hook up a different hose and put the included "slime" in the
tire if it's flat.
His van has a spare, but he carries the kit just in case. All he's ever
needed was the pump, but he's got the sealant if need be.
Regarding the "trunk storage", the donut for my Odyssey is stored inside
the vehicle, under the floor mat behind the front seats. I've had vans
where the spare hangs from the bottom the vehicle on a cable. That just
A "repair kit" is useless if you damage a tire by hitting something
on the road, if you damage a sidewall or cut the tire, or damage the
rim, or don't get stopped before the tire carcase is damaged. Also
useless if a valve stem is damaged ( 3 of the last 4 flat's I've had
would have been more than a match for a "repair kit" - and the other I
repaired on the car with a plug.
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