They were closed when I returned the vehicle, so I didn't ask them. I left
a note for them to call me about the "inconvenience" of having to top off
the tire (twice). I'm hoping they'll credit me for some amount, although
they already gave me a pretty good deal - a one day rental credit if I paid
for the insurance coverage, which was less than the one day rental. In
other words, I got the coverage but still paid less than I would have if I
had declined the coverage and paid the full rental cost. I'm assuming they
make more money on the insurance than the rental, so we all made out on the
Anyway, when they call me, I"ll ask about the spare. Of course, I'm sure I
can already tell you what he'll say. "If the spare says stay under 50, then
I recommend you stay under 50.“ What else could he say? It's not like he's
going to tell me to ignore the warning and drive at whatever speed I want.
I've lost track of how many tires I've changed just in the past year.
On my daughter's car alone I've had the spare on at least 6 times since we
bought the car (used) in April.
In the first month, 3 of the 4 tires went low because of the aluminum
wheels. I'd throw the spare on, drop the low tire off at a local shop, have
them clean the wheel and fill it up. Over the summer she ran over a nail
and a screw with a week of each other. She doesn't drive any place "bad" -
just normal roads and parking lots. She works at a YMCA, so it's not like
she parking in industrial areas with trucks, construction vehicles, etc.
We bought her new tires for winter and she hit a pothole within the first
week, damaging a sidewall. It was covered under the road hazard warranty,
so I threw the spare on, drove it over to the shop and they put a new tire
on the rim without making me wait. If I had left it on the car I would have
had to wait my turn until a bay was open.
With a floor jack, my cordless drill and a pipe to use as leverage, I can
put the spare on in under 15 minutes, less than half hour total on and off.
If I leave the tires on the vehicles when they need service, it's hours of
waiting to get into a bay. I don't have that kind of patience.
On Mon, 30 Dec 2013 19:26:00 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03
Whatever works for you. I call first and if I'm told there's going to
be a wait I have the come along in the second car, and just drop off
the car getting the work done. Call me when it's done.
But there's a Just Tires less than a mile away.
That's what we do if one of our vehicle needs work that requires the
vehicle to be left at the shop. With three vehicles and three drivers
working, doing without one vehicle for a day - especially just for a tire -
is a pretty big inconvenience. I'd rather throw the spare on and drive than
arrange transportation, etc.
Like you said, whatever works.
She knows how to change a tire. She actually changed it a couple of the 6
times. I don't mind doing it, but I know she can do it if she has to. Of
course, she also has AAA so while I wouldn't expect her to be changing a
tire on the side of the highway, I know that she could if she had to.
On Tue, 31 Dec 2013 00:30:58 +0000 (UTC), email@example.com
(Larry W) wrote:
For years my youngest daughter changed her own seasonal tires. I was
usually around in case she had trouble. Now she's got a truck
mechanic for a boyfriend, and he comes over and changes them, and even
gets mine out of the attic of the shed for me, and helps put the
takeoffs back up.
On Monday, December 30, 2013 7:30:58 PM UTC-5, Larry W wrote:
I've taught my daughters just in case. But when the shop puts on the lugnuts with an air wrench, it's usually impossible for them to break them loose, and often for me. One time we couldn't get them off jumping on a cheater bar.
I guess there's supposed to be a torque setting on those things but it must be routinely ignored.
Question: do you guys put the bolts/nuts (depending on the car) on dry with the recommended torque? Or do you lube them and reduce the torque? I normally never put a fastener on dry, but I've been unsure about wheels.
puts on the lugnuts with an air wrench, it's usually
impossible for them to break them loose, and often for
me. One time we couldn't get them off jumping on a
those things but it must be routinely ignored.
on the car) on dry with the recommended torque? Or do
you lube them and reduce the torque? I normally never
put a fastener on dry, but I've been unsure about wheels.
This has as much heated opinion and toilet paper over the
top or under the bottom. My opinion is to lube the threads
and mating cone point with grease or Never-Sieze. Torque
with clicker torque wrench, and recheck the next day and
the second day. Others will quote Aristotle, Mack, Ford,
or just tell me that I'm mistaken.
I've had a wheel fall off twice. Once when it started to
rain the day I was working. I slipped the lugs on finger
tight, and neglected to torque them. This was about 1980
model Chevette, with steel rims.
Second time was a 98 Blazer with aluminum rims. I put the
lugs on with torque wrench but didn't recheck the next day
and on day two. The lugs were under snap cap, and I didn't
see that they were loose. I thought I had a backwards radial
on the other corner, and didn't visually or wrench check the
one that was loosening.
Both of those were my neglect, and I take responsibility.
The only time I've had a wheel loosen up is when a service center put the
wrong wheels on my vehicle.
I had my dead Subaru towed to a service station late on a Saturday night. I
didn't make an appointment because they were closed until Monday. I had
used the service station before and since my car was dead, I decided to
have it towed there with the plan to call them Monday morning. I told the
tow truck driver to put the car behind the station, pointed towards the
service bay door so that they could push it into the shop when they were
I called them first thing Monday morning and they said they were wondering
what the car was doing behind their shop, balanced on 3 concrete blocks
with no wheels. To this day, I believe the tow truck driver was involved
with the theft of the wheels and brand new tires, but there was obviously
no way I could prove it. He would have been the only one who knew the car
was behind the station, unless someone else went back there looking for
vehicles to mess with.
Anyway, the service station located some used wheels (the wagon wheel
style) and new tires and put them on the vehicle. I picked it up after the
repair was done and proceeded to drive 300 miles to my parent's house for
the holidays. The car felt fine while driving on the highway but when I
slowed for a toll booth, the steering wheel started shimmying. I pulled off
of the road and found that a couple of lugs were loose on the front wheels.
I tightened them up and continued on my way. When I got to my parent's
house, the car felt funny again, so I checked the wheels and found that
_all_ of the lug nuts were loose and some of the studs were stripped.
It turned out that the wheels they put did not fit over the hub correctly.
They were being held onto the car with just the lug nuts, with no support
from the hub. I had to take it to a shop to have a few of the studs
replaced. It took them a few days to locate the correct wheels so I was
stuck without a car and delayed in getting home.
My insurance company covered the original theft of the wheels and the
service station covered the cost of the replacement wheels and stud repairs
after I threatened to report them to any and all groups and authorities I
could think of.
It's not clear to me what you are trying to say. Please explain.
This was a 1986 Subaru. The bolt pattern of the "wrong" wheels was the same
as the correct ones, but the wheels definitely did not fit the car
correctly. If my memory serves me correctly (it's been a while) the center
of the wheel did not fit over the hub and therefore the wheels were not
Rough numbers, picture a tapered hub on the car, with a max diameter of 3".
Now picture a wheel with a 2.75" hole in the center. The wheel fit over the
hub and studs but not all the way in against the rotor. There was a gap
that allowed the wheel to move side to side while driving, eventually
loosening the lug nuts and damaging the studs. The mechanic probably just
tightened the lug nuts, never realizing that the wheel was not seated up
against the rotor.
On Tue, 31 Dec 2013 19:21:39 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03
OK - I think I understand you now. The wheel center hole was too
SMALL for the hub. I thought you were blaming the problem on the wheel
center being too LARGE for the hub.
Yes, if the rim could not seat all the way it WOULD cause a problem,
and the "mechanic" who installed the wheels was blind and dumb.
The "mechanic" likely attempted to install Toyota wheels. The Soob
takes metric 5 wheels - 5 on 100, with 56.1 counterbore. The Toyota
bolt circle is the same, but the counterbore is a lousy 2mm smaller
A couple decades ago, I had a Dodge van, the rear wheels
would not come off unless I used a torch. I finally chocked
the front, took one rear wheel off, start the engine, and
put it in reverse. Used a drill and grind stone to take
down the hub a bit, until the wheels fit. And then did the
same on the other side. No more propane torch to get the
wheels off each time.
On Tue, 31 Dec 2013 08:53:59 -0500, Stormin Mormon
Several years ago, I had Costco rotate my tires. They're supposed to
use torque wrenches (with the manager checking all work, personally).
A few days later I had the car inspected, without fanfare. A couple
of hours later my wife called me, rather pissed, saying that a wheel
passed her. Fortunately, she had just gotten off an Interstate and
was on a side-street. The wheel chewed itself up pretty well, broke a
couple of lug nuts, and did some significant damage to the fender on
its way to freedom. No one took responsibility, of course.
I do not torque and I rarely lube. I lube if I feel the lug nut binding
when I'm taking it off or putting it back on. If it comes off easily, it
typically goes back on easy.
This is the technique I learned years ago:
To loosen the lugs, I jack the vehicle up just enough to take most of the
weight off of the tire, but not enough to loose contact with the ground.
Once the lugs are slightly loose, I jack the vehicle up until the tire is
off the ground and then remove the lug nuts and tire.
I reverse the procedure when installing the tire. I snug the lug nuts
enough to draw the tire up against the hub and then lower the vehicle until
the tire touches the ground. Once the tire has a little weight on it, I
tightened the lug nuts until I feel that they are "tight enough".
I've never had a lug nut become loose using this procedure and I've always
been able to get the lug nuts off when I've wanted to.
On Tuesday, December 31, 2013 9:37:01 AM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Yeah, that works fine IF the guy with the air wrench at the shop who last tightened them did it somewhere close to properly.
I find this to be rare. I don't know why exactly. Usually they are way too tight.
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