Heh :-) We've got a '67 F100 with the straight-6 and it's like that - huge amounts of space in the bay. I've been known to the l/h inner wheel- arch with my legs dangling in the bay when I'm working on it.
Think about it. A five minute oil change. You drive in, and five minutes later you drive out. It's hot - count on it.
But DON'T forget to make sure that darn "O" ring was removed from the filter adapter groove before installing the can with the new gasket!!!!!!!!
The spin-on filter was the greatest improvement in serviceability in the history of the SBC
snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote the following:
I rather liked the old style where the filter cannister sat just to the side of the engine near the top. A bolt held the cap on. Just take the bolt out, remove the cover and dirty filter, and replace it with a new filter Anyone with a fuel oil burner knows that type of fuel line filter.
You are talking the old bypass filter - not full flow. While better than nothing, they were not a very good solution as far as engine protection is concerned.
My V-6 Hyundai 3.3 has a top filter canister. You have to remove a shroud to see it. Last time I change oil myself was on my '91 Regal. It was a real PITA so I've not done once since. For the three times a year in needs changing, I'm willing to pay these days.
"Steve Barker" wrote
Your opinion. I change at 7500 miles (factory recommendation) and get
200,000 miles from engines and never an oil problem. Nothing anyone says can convince me to spend twice as much money to care for a car that does not break down under present circumstances. Severe driving conditions may modify that interval for some peopleThe dealer says I should get fuel injector service ($129.00) once a year also. I'd have spent thousands of dollars over the years and again, never had a fuel injector related problem either.
My problem is that I don't trust any of the oil change places to do a correct job. I have found several times when they did something wrong, either underfilling, overfilling, not tightening the filter or drain plug, etc. Now I do both our Mazda Protoge' and Nissan Pathfinder and know it is being done correctly. When I get somewhat older, currently 74, I'll pay my son to do the job for me. But as long as I can crawl under the jacked-up vehicles, with jackstands, and then get back out and stand up again, I will do it myself.
"hr(bob) snipped-for-privacy@att.net" wrote
Agree about the oil change places. The guy I use is a radiator repair shop and oil is a sideline for him. He takes his time and does it right and I can watch him do it. I'd never go to a Jiffy Lube.
In general, I'm with you Ed. It also makes a big difference if you're using conventional oil or synthetic. Porsche, for example, which specs synthetic only, recommends 15,000 mile using Mobil 1. IMO, you'd just be wasting oil and money to change it at 3,000. And I kind of doubt Porsche wants to piss off customers by having their cars fail early due to the cost of a mere oil change. Most of those oil changes are probably at the dealer anyway, so they even have an incentive to keep their dealers happy by telling people to change the oil more frequently.
It also has some relation to how long you intend to keep a car and what the usual failures are that finally send it to the scrap heap. In my personal cars and those of friends I'm familiar with, etc, I've never seen an engine failure attributable to lubrication being the final straw. A recent example, a friend just gave away his Honda CRV SUV. It had 200K+ miles on it and still ran fine. But it had a shot AC compressor and a check engine light indicating a problem with the fuel evaporation system. He decided it wasn't worth fixing and bought a new one. He just followed the normal oil change interval.
That is more the typical scenario that I see. Several things that add up to send it to the scrapper. Or maybe a transmission failure, but in my experience, it's never been a failure in the lubricated parts of the engine.
So, tell us. And there will be that many fewer people who are mistaken.
But, are you sure you're doing it right? Be a shame to waste all these years.
I've seen my share of them since becoming a mechanic back in 1971.
Not as many these last 10 years or so - the oil quality as well as the engine design have both improved significantly. I have seen many camshaft problems that were definitely lubrication related, as well as timing chain problems and balance shaft problems (think Chrysler/Mitsbishi 2600) that were DEFINITELY lubrication related - agravated by a dicey design. Same with hundreds and hundreds of 2700cc Chrysler V6 engines. The "coking" problem with them is lubrication related, and NONE have failed with 3000 mile oil change intervals. (or synthetic oil with less than 6000 mile change intervals) The only slant six Mopar bottom end failures I've ever seen have been on engines that didn't get adequate oil changes - and they were tough to kill even then.
3.0 Mitsu/Chrysler V6 engines, with the exception of early valve guide dropping, were bulletproof if the oil was changed often enough. 400,000km and more bulletproof. I've seen them totally trashed at under 200,000 km with 10,000 mile(15,000km) oil change intervals. Toyota M engines (supra/cressida etc) only failed timing chains and camshafts on engines that ran extended oil changes or too light an oil (5W20 or 5W30 didn't quite do it at 6000km change intervals - 10W40 was.t much better.wrote
That's the way my 2001 LeSabre is headed. Engine is great. Everything else is going to crap though. Ac no longer works, Climate control is hot on one side, cold on the other, heated seat died at 39,000 miles (out of warranty in miles, but only 2 years) Transmission at 100,000 miles, brakes lines, both rear windows are held up with wood sticks in the door, and a few more things I don't recall at the moment. I keep it as a spare now, but I've not driven it myself in over 3 years. I'm contemplating giving it away.
glegroups.com...
I know enough to change the oil after the vehicle has been running a while, so that the heated oil is thinner and drains more completely, I know enough to tilt the car to one side so that the crankcase drains more completely, I use a quality oil filter and know the brand of oil I am putting in, and our local recycle center will take the old oil. Also, it is just as fast as driving to the nearest oil change place. What am I missing???
Except for the drivers-side-rear spark plug if the car had power brakes!
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The best thing that happened to cars is unleaded gas and good long lasting plugs. Used to be we cleaned them at 5000 miles and replaced them at
10,000. That is a nearly impossible task on so many engines today, especially the rear plugs. Instead of four times a year, it is four years between changes.Years ago, I looked under the hood of a friend's Toyota. The spark plugs were exactly at the top of the motor. Amazingly easy to change. Now, that is good design.
I got a five spark plug change on my last truck. One time I took it to the dealership. They told me the plug was "in there kind of tight and they didn't want to break it". The next tune up, I did myself. Jack up the front, take the drivers front wheel off. Reach in with two long extension sticks. Sure enough, the spark plug was loose, and also badly worn.
This is what I have. First one on page.
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