The above pix shows a similar water supply valve under my kitchen
sink, which driips near the crimp.
I would like to replace the hose and crimp: is there a way to do this?
Do I have to replace the entire valve assembly with hose by cutting
the supply pipe closer to the wall?
Can it be recrimped?
Assistance requested and appreciated. tia
Good question. I've never seen a push/pull valve
like that on a toilet before.
Before doing anything, exactly where is it leaking?
Since she's concerned with the hose/crimp, sounds
like it's leaking there. If so, first thing I'd try is to get
a stainless steel hose clamp, take off the old clamp,
and replace it. That might be all that is needed.
On Fri, 2 Dec 2011 05:28:03 -0800 (PST), " firstname.lastname@example.org"
The same valve is on the kitchen water inlets, all bathroom sinks, and
toile, throughout the house.
It is leaking at the end of the crimp.
The old clamp will not come off!
Sumter County, FL: almost all homes have this same arrangement.
On 12/2/2011 7:08 PM, shellyf_DELETE email@example.com wrote:
Shelly, I don't recognize the brand, but it looks like one of the newer
push on fittings. Shark bite and other brands have a way to remove a
fitting that didn't grab correctly.
See if this brand looks right. There is a tool for removing shown when
you click on demounting:
It may be worth contacting a local plumber to ask what brand fittings
are used and where they buy them.
On Dec 2, 8:08 pm, shellyf firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Looks like you have a choice. Either convert to a conventional
stop valve by gluing on an adaptor or get another one of the
existing ones. How you get the existing widget off, I don't know.
But if you can't there's enough pipe there so you could just cut
On 12/3/2011 7:45 AM, email@example.com wrote:
Great find. That sure looks like the right one. Removable and
reusable. The literature does say that it can be removed by turning in
Labor and material guaranteed for 10 years. Shelly should probably
contact the company, she may have a plumber coming for free. May well
be worth looking into.
It appears that the type of valve and supply hose that you have is a single
unit, and the supply hose (with the crimp) is factory installed. That means
that you cannot take off the hose or crimped part where you said it is
I found this link with some info on what you have:
The valve itself is supposed to be removable (the supply hose would come off
with the valve). Someone here wrote that the valve can be removed by
turning it counterclockwise. I have not found that anywhere, but maybe that
Since you said that other homes in your area have the same thing, maybe they
sell them in plumbing supply places or hardware stores in your area. You
could also try calling the manufacturer to find out where you can buy them
in your area. And, the manufacturer should be able to tell you how to
release and remove the valve (and hose assembly) from the CPVC pipe.
If you shut off the water supply, then take the supply hose off where it
connects to the sink, and then can remove the valve, you can bring the whole
thing with you to buy a replacement assembly.
Or, if you cannot get the valve off (or can't find anywhere that tells you
how to get it off), maybe you could just use a hacksaw or whatever to cut
the CPVC pipe right below the valve and get the whole assembly off that way.
And, if you cannot find a regular replacement for the whole assembly, just
bring it all with you to a Home Depot, Lowes, a hardware store, or whatever
and they'll be able to hook you up with what you need to do the replacement
with more standard materials. They'll sell you a valve and a separate
supply hose that screws onto the valve. You can either glue the new valve
on to the remaining piece of CPVC pipe, or they may have a valve or adapter
etc. that uses a push-on type of technology.
P.S. Here's a link that shows how to contact the manufacturer:
I think they will be bale to tell you how to get the old one off, where to
get a new one, and as someone else suggested, they may even be able to send
a new one to you (maybe for free, maybe not).
He should decide if the removal tool is worth the cost.
And check to see if all the installed valves have clearance for the
I can see where that could be a problem if the installer didn't
account for that.
Can't say whether that valve setup is a good idea.
I have clip disengage tools for GM fuel injection lines, and those
lines don't leak, and new clips are cheap if you break one.
But as you say, he has the option of going different ways.
Depends on cost/hassle factor.
shellyf_DELETE firstname.lastname@example.org wrote the following:
The valve and supply line is a single unit. The text below is from
1. Shut off your house water at the mainline.
2. Disconnect the nut end of the connector first. This is the chrome nut
that attaches to the faucet (me = or toilet tank). It should only be
hand tight, but some installers will wrench them on. A 6 or 8 inch
adjustable wrench will work fine. For the toilet it's the large white
plastic nut connected to the toilet tank.
3. Rotate the valve on the pipe counter-clockwise with a slight pull
4. After about 6 or 8 twists, the valve should turn itself completely
off of the pipe.
5. When the valve is removed, you'll see about a half inch of the pipe
tip will have these spiral scars. They look almost like a fine pipe
thread. They're not. They're caused by the gripping teeth inside the
valve when the valve is rotated.
This is the important part. When you go to re-install your valves (they
are re-usable if there is no damage to the O-ring inside), cut-away the
scarred portion of the pipe. If you can't, then just smooth the pipe
surface with emery cloth or a fine sand paper before re-installing your
6. Push the valve back onto the pipe with a slight turn of the wrist a
full 1 and one-quarter inches. It works well to measure and mark the
pipe. Try and avoid "screwing" the valve onto the pipe. Just push it on
with a slight turn of the wrist to the 1-1/4" mark.
AccorTechnology is going to send me a replacement valve; old and new
one are guaranteed for 10 years. House is 5 years young.
I will remove the old one by twisting ccw a quarter turn and pulling
I will sand down any 'spiral marks' on the cpvc pipe
I will replace by pushing on and turning cw until it reaches a
Accortechnology has been extremely cooperative thus far.
Wow, that is so cool! Thanks for letting us know how it worked out.
I, for one, learned a few things here. One was about those types of valves
(which I had never seen before) and how they work. And another was that
AccorTechnology honors their warranty and does the right thing in dealing
with their customers and the consumer/end-user.
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