extra 3/8 shut off valve for sink faucet?

Something like this?

The ball valves seem to be the better choice these days.

an extra inline 3/8 x 3/8 shutoff valve to put between your expired copper = one and the standard flexible hoses going to sink faucet?

Not that this helps you any more than my last post, but I would hope (and I= expect) that there's not nearly as much call for a valve like that as you = seem to think. Most people, and any plumber who's not overly fond of being = sued would consider intentionally leaving an old failed valve in place to b= e a last resort...

Personally, I would much rather cut into the wall and do it right than hope= the packing in the old valve won't fail a year from now while I'm not home= . ("Right" IMHO meaning to remove the old valve and extend the pipe out far= enough to install a new valve outside the wall where you can replace it ea= sily next time it fails.)

Probably because not too many people would consider putting 2 shutoffs in series.

I certainly wouldn't consider it the "most logically needed valve in the world".

I'm curious what stores you've tried. 'Twere it me, I'd try a contractor's plumbing supply house. If they didn't stock one, they would know where to order it from - if they exist - so there wouldn't be any guesswork as to whether they were compatible or not.

Many kitchen and bath "design centers" have plumbing counters in the back, just like many lighting stores have electrical supply counters. That's where many of the contractors do their business.

A little bit of a cob job, but I understand his reasoning. The old valve won't fully shut off, so he wants to stack a new one on there because it's easier than replacing the old one.

Not sure what his setup looks like, but I don't know why he couldn't do a sex change with a close or a coupling.

quoted text -

That what it seems like. He/she should be able to shut off the water, and unsolder or unscrew the present valve and put a new valve in its place. If it is partially buried in the wall, replacing it still seems to be a better choice than having a second failure potential as others have stated.

If the valve and supply pipe both come out when he unscrews things, replace the pipe with a slightly longer one to get past the wall. Some pipe dope and a small wrench should be able to screw the new pipe into the in the wall fitting to prevent leaking inside the wall, and if he/she is really worried, they can look into the opening with a flashlight and mirror to see that it is not happening before they close up the hole in the wall with some spackling compound/mud.

This is about the most basic home repair thing to do, it's not rocket science or even close to it.

Thank you to those who answered accepting the premise of my question. I will try some cobbling in series, although it is hard to buy online because I don't know the terms for what I need. I don't have good access to local plumbing contractor places... I just found shutoff valves with threads only on the output end, but will try more.

Above was cold water, but the hot comes from some larger than

I had hoped I didn't have to explain how the tower block in question can't shut off water except to many units at once, and the rare planned turnoff can't delay turning it back on earlier than expected due to the extreme inconvenience to everybody waiting. This troubled bldg has had frequent long unplanned water cutoffs for 6, 12, or 24 hours and anyone wanting an open end down period for amateur plumbing is asking for a lynch mob. I had a lot of trouble getting solder to flow to the heat in a previous house. Better to just opportunistically slam in a screw in patch in series.

OK, let's try this again.......You have a shut-off valve that's too close to the wall to easily change out. The valve is bad so you want to add another valve in-series downstream of the bad valve so you can shut off the water when needed. Question: what is currently/was attached to the output side of this bad valve? Is it 3/8" OD copper or a 3/8" hose going to the faucet??? If so, it might be very easy to add another valve in-series but you need to be descriptive since you're not posting pictures....

If this is a rental unit why is an amateur plumber trying to make repairs? I understand that not all landlords and building maintenance people are terrific, but your hands are tied.

When the original valve fails and floods all the units below yours, your amateur repair on top of the valve will invalidate all claims of damage against the landlord. YOU will be 100% liable for any damage caused.

Right now if you log a complaint with the landlord, it is *THEIR* responsibility to fix it, and *THEY* are liable when the valve fails and floods all the units below yours.

he old seized shutoff valve. This is because the outlet on a shutoff valve = is designed to be connected to a pipe/tube, and not to another fitting. Hav= ing said that I believe you can achieve what you want by connecting a fauce= t water supply line (which may be the existing one or a new one) to the old= shutoff valve outlet, and then connecting a new shutoff valve to the other= end of the supply line. Obviously you will need to match the supply line o= utlet with the inlet of the new shutoff valve (e.g. a 1/2" MIP/FIP connecti= on).

sible to crimp the existing supply line, or use a C-clamp on the existing s= upply line, to stop the flow of water without shutting off the water to the= building.

Would you care to explain this process to me?

The OP has a shut off valve that will not shut off. This valve is half buried in a wall so he can't easily remove it. He wants to add another valve in series - outside of the wall - so that he can turn the water off to one fixture.

Where are you suggesting that he place this C-clamp which will allow him to accomplish his goal?

Y'know, the C clamp is the right solution. Thing is, the OP has the wrong problem.

What do you expect from a Moaners Hub web reader?

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Would you care to explain this process to me?

The OP has a shut off valve that will not shut off. This valve is half buried in a wall so he can't easily remove it. He wants to add another valve in series - outside of the wall - so that he can turn the water off to one fixture.

Where are you suggesting that he place this C-clamp which will allow him to accomplish his goal?

It sounds like a good idea to work with the building onwer, and coordinate to have his plumber do it up during one of the water outages.

With your combination of bad situation, it does sound wise to use the inline shutoff.

Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus

I had hoped I didn't have to explain how the tower block in question can't shut off water except to many units at once, and the rare planned turnoff can't delay turning it back on earlier than expected due to the extreme inconvenience to everybody waiting. This troubled bldg has had frequent long unplanned water cutoffs for 6, 12, or 24 hours and anyone wanting an open end down period for amateur plumbing is asking for a lynch mob. I had a lot of trouble getting solder to flow to the heat in a previous house. Better to just opportunistically slam in a screw in patch in series.

extra inline 3/8 x 3/8 shutoff valve to put between your expired copper one and the standard flexible hoses going to sink faucet?

expect) that there's not nearly as much call for a valve like that as you seem to think. Most people, and any plumber who's not overly fond of being sued would consider intentionally leaving an old failed valve in place to be a last resort...

the packing in the old valve won't fail a year from now while I'm not home. ("Right" IMHO meaning to remove the old valve and extend the pipe out far enough to install a new valve outside the wall where you can replace it easily next time it fails.)

That's what I would do. Tile carefully removed can be replaced and OP should be able to do the revealing himself before the plumber shows up and patch after he leaves.

Replacement valve I mentioned was needed to replace a failed valve that had a leak in it and even though it was not frozen and could be shut off the leak was before the shut off in the valve body itself.

ossible to crimp the existing supply line, or use a C-clamp on the existing= supply line, to stop the flow of water without shutting off the water to t= he building.

After reading this about 4 times, I realize he means to crimp the existing,= flexible supply line going from the valve to the sink, unhook the end of t= he hose from the sink, connect a valve t the end of the hose and another ho= se from the new valve to the sink. That would allow him to install a new va= lve without shutting off the water. This would do the trick IF it doesn't r= upture the hose (which is probably old) and flood the apartment.

However, my guess is it's not necessary. I believe from the OP's descriptio= n that the old valve is not seized but just doesn't shut off all the way, w= hich means he can remove the hose with causing a serious problem.

But at least mentioning that you lived in a tower block would have saved everyone a lot of guessing. Now we can all just tell you it's the super's problem and you shouldn't be mucking with it. :)

You appear to be trying hard to make a smart comment and to lack rather basic social skills. Sad.

You, Abacab, are posting to a USENET newsgroup (forum) that is being pirated by the website from which you are posting. If you choose to participate here, please do it appropriately, and NOT from any damn website. However, don't expect to join a room overflowing with social skills. Sanctimony and a thin skin are not prerequisites for "membership" in alt.home.repair.