Why is it so hard to get the most logically needed valve in the world... an extra inline 3/8 x 3/8 shutoff valve to put between your expired copper one and the standard flexible hoses going to sink faucet? Nothing can be found locally, so i want to order online. The closest thing i can find is plastic and im not sure is compatible with male and female metal standard mating
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=3%2F8%20x%203%2F8%20%20shut%20off%20valve&source=web&cd=3&ved=0CCoQFjAC&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.freshwatersystems.com%2Fp-1077-john-guest-shut-off-valve-polypro-straight-38-tube-x-38-tube.aspx&ei=qa9wULXHHOOYiQKZo4CABA&usg=AFQjCNGBpDQRnPSL4UNbh6UIOzHduubVng
By the way i found it doesnt help to force a non working shutoff valve really tight, because the seals seem to crumble and jam up your faucet filter. Of course the existing shutoff is half buried in a wall and inaccesable. Thanks for pointers
A little bit of a cob job, but I understand his reasoning. The old valve
won't fully shut off, so he wants to stack a new one on there because
it's easier than replacing the old one.
Not sure what his setup looks like, but I don't know why he couldn't do
a sex change with a close or a coupling.
That what it seems like. He/she should be able to shut off the water,
and unsolder or unscrew the present valve and put a new valve in its
place. If it is partially buried in the wall, replacing it still
seems to be a better choice than having a second failure potential as
others have stated.
If the valve and supply pipe both come out when he unscrews things,
replace the pipe with a slightly longer one to get past the wall.
Some pipe dope and a small wrench should be able to screw the new pipe
into the in the wall fitting to prevent leaking inside the wall, and
if he/she is really worried, they can look into the opening with a
flashlight and mirror to see that it is not happening before they
close up the hole in the wall with some spackling compound/mud.
This is about the most basic home repair thing to do, it's not rocket
science or even close to it.
Thank you to those who answered accepting the premise of my
question. I will try some cobbling in series, although it is hard
to buy online because I don't know the terms for what I need. I
don't have good access to local plumbing contractor places...
I just found shutoff valves with threads only on the output end,
but will try more.
Above was cold water, but the hot comes from some larger than
3/8 size, where I had to cobble in an extra old flexible hose with
different size ends. I'll guess this is 3/8 to 1/2 and try for a
shorter mating. Also I have a failing shower diverter valve that
a plumber refused to replace (because needing to rip tiles?) and
may try replacing the plain spout with a diverter one to trap the
trickle there, although may have to set the main diverter half way
to pressurize the other diverter seal.
On Sunday, October 7, 2012 9:15:38 AM UTC-10, hr(bob) wrote:
I had hoped I didn't have to explain how the tower block in question can't
shut off water except to many units at once, and the rare planned turnoff
can't delay turning it back on earlier than expected due to the extreme
inconvenience to everybody waiting. This troubled bldg has had frequent
long unplanned water cutoffs for 6, 12, or 24 hours and anyone wanting
an open end down period for amateur plumbing is asking for a lynch mob.
I had a lot of trouble getting solder to flow to the heat in a previous house.
Better to just opportunistically slam in a screw in patch in series.
OK, let's try this again.......You have a shut-off valve that's too close to
the wall to easily change out. The valve is bad so you want to add another
valve in-series downstream of the bad valve so you can shut off the water
when needed. Question: what is currently/was attached to the output side of
this bad valve? Is it 3/8" OD copper or a 3/8" hose going to the faucet???
If so, it might be very easy to add another valve in-series but you need to
be descriptive since you're not posting pictures....
On Monday, October 8, 2012 8:26:02 PM UTC-4, dumbstruck wrote:
If this is a rental unit why is an amateur plumber trying to make repairs? I
understand that not all landlords and building maintenance people are terrific,
but your hands are tied.
When the original valve fails and floods all the units below yours, your amateur
repair on top of the valve will invalidate all claims of damage against the
landlord. YOU will be 100% liable for any damage caused.
Right now if you log a complaint with the landlord, it is *THEIR* responsibility
to fix it, and *THEY* are liable when the valve fails and floods all the units
below yours.
I doubt you will find a new shutoff valve that will screw directly onto the old
seized shutoff valve. This is because the outlet on a shutoff valve is designed
Would you care to explain this process to me?
The OP has a shut off valve that will not shut off. This valve is half
buried in a wall so he can't easily remove it. He wants to add another
valve in series - outside of the wall - so that he can turn the water
off to one fixture.
Where are you suggesting that he place this C-clamp which will allow
him to accomplish his goal?
Y'know, the C clamp is the right solution. Thing is, the OP has the wrong
problem.
What do you expect from a Moaners Hub web reader?
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.
wrote:
Would you care to explain this process to me?
The OP has a shut off valve that will not shut off. This valve is half
buried in a wall so he can't easily remove it. He wants to add another
valve in series - outside of the wall - so that he can turn the water
off to one fixture.
Where are you suggesting that he place this C-clamp which will allow
him to accomplish his goal?
You, Abacab, are posting to a USENET newsgroup (forum) that is being
pirated by the website from which you are posting. If you choose to
participate here, please do it appropriately, and NOT from any damn
website. However, don't expect to join a room overflowing with social
skills. Sanctimony and a thin skin are not prerequisites for
"membership" in alt.home.repair.
I'm aware it's a USENET newsgroup. If I choose to post via the website that I
ended up on via a Google search query then so be it. Perhaps you can ask Google
alt.home.repair is not a "google group" anymore than it's a "homeowners
hub" group. Both have pirated our content for financial gain. Some of us
who *give away* our time and experience to help others strongly resent
the fact that scoundrels are *profiting* from our labors, by repackaging
it for distribution via the web. The hub is not there to help you. It's
there to make money, by selling advertising, period.
USENET is NOT a web-based forum. You do not legitimately get here with a
web browser. Now go do your homework. Start by googling "usenet" so that
your ignorance doesn't become something that you end up foolishly
defending.
Since you are in a hole you should stop digging. It is clear that you do not
understand how USENET works, its basic architecture, the fundamental difference
Your last post is so pathetic as to be funny. It is clear you have no clue as to
what my last post was about, and no desire to find out. There's nothing more I
On Wednesday, October 10, 2012 10:44:01 PM UTC-4, Abacab wrote:
to what my last post was about, and no desire to find out. There's nothing more
I can do.
While I disagree with almost everything else Smitty is ranting about, his last
post is pretty accurate. Read it again. He was only replying to the one sentence
he quoted from you, not your entire post...
On Thursday, October 11, 2012 4:52:31 PM UTC-4, Larry Fishel wrote:
On second reading, I guess I had completely ignored Smitty's actual wording and just gone with the point he was trying to make, which was that expecting USENET to be a civilized place (especially on an unmoderated board) can only lead to disappointment and sorrow...
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