Best valve for main water shut off

Hi All,

I need to replace the valve that serves as the main shutoff for all water entering my house. The handle broke off of the ancient one. Since they are not too expensive, I'd like to put in the best possible replacement.

I was considering a ball valve with a sturdy handle. I like having a big handle that only needs to turn 90 degrees rather than the multi-turn gate valve that it is replacing.

Is there a reason not to use that type or is another type preferred?

Thanks,

Greg

Reply to
Greg
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I like ball valves because they do not restrict flow. I think gate valves have this feature as well but will require more turns. I no of no reason not to use a ball valve for your application and have done so myself. I am no plumber though so take my free advice for what its worth.

Reply to
Brikp

Ball valves for everything. You will never be sorry. Like you said they are not all that expensive. If you can get the water drained from the area it is a pretty easy install. Use a plastic tube to pull the water out of the supply side. Get the water down a foot, makes sweating much easier.

Reply to
SQLit

Use a ball valve but they are brass if you have galvanised incomming and piping a dialectric is needed or it will be leaking in a few years.

Reply to
m Ransley

Good tip. The pipes are galvanized.

-G

Reply to
Greg

It is an insulator that prevents galvanic corrosion that occurs when dissimiliar metals come in contact.

-G

Reply to
Greg

Later in the thread you stated that the service is galv iron. Based on loads of experience, I have reason to believe that you won't get the old valve out without destroying the galv pipe.

Lots of maybees in there, but I offer this as a caution so you don't wind up for days with no water...

Jim

Reply to
Speedy Jim

Good catch - I assumed copper there are dialectric unions available to transition galv to copper but are there galvanized ball valves? I wouldn't think it would be worth using tow of these unions just to put in a copper/brass ball valve.

Reply to
Brikp

My vote is to use a ball valve, but I am no plumber. This is just based on what I was told at a plumbing supply house recently. They said, "no one uses gate valves anymore".

I'd get one with a waste port (or whatever it's called) so you can drain the whole system if you ever need to.

I am curious -- what is a "dielectric"?

Reply to
Ron26

SQ - Can you describe this trick more? Have you ever used the "Bread" trick? I am told that white bread works best for this although I have never needed to use it. I have used a shop vac to ensure all the residual water is clear from a pipe before soldering. If you don't do something sweating pipes is near impossible if there is some water left.

Reply to
Brikp

Yes, this has occurred to me. As much as it pains me to crack open my wallet for such a "simple" job, I've been considering calling a pro. The consequences of a screw up could be extremely inconvenient.

-Greg

Reply to
Greg

I agree.

-G

Reply to
Greg

Watch out here as you may interrupt some critical electrical grounding functions. With a dielectric union it may be appropriate to install a water meter type bypass cable. Cheers.

Joe

Reply to
Joe Bobst

Keeps different metal pipes from electrically connecting. See link below.

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Reply to
Bill

I can't comment on valves, but our main water shutoff has two valves back-to-back. Thus I always used the 2nd one, and if it fails/breaks, I have a backup.

Seems like a good idea...

Reply to
Mike

That's exactly what I replaced my leaking main valve with and for the same reasons. It's also easy to tell if it's all the way on.

Reply to
Chet Hayes

Actually, a pro warned me that the galvanized pipe could break they could not guarantee it would not and quoted a price for running new pipe if it did break. I chose to buy a key to shut off the water at the city main $5 solution instead of a potential $1000 solution if the pipe broke

Roland

Reply to
Joe Doe

The two valve thing is not that uncommon. Usually it happens when the first valve fails and a second one is added. It may be easier to add one than to try to undo an old one. My mother's house had this set-up. The first one wouldn't shut off all the way, so the new one was added without having to shut off the water.

Harry K

Reply to
Harry K

Stick a plastic tube down the pipe and suck on it like a straw or use it like a dip tube. Stick it in the water, cover the other end with your finger and pull it out.

MAPP gas will help your soldering, and bread works well too. White bread seals better and doesn't leave residual grains to clog strainers.

Jeff

Reply to
Jeff Cochran

Reply to
George E. Cawthon

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