I have a 4x8' tilt-bed trailer.
The floor is rotted out.
What should I use to replace it?
Has a metal rail down the center to
support the motorcycle, so that's not an issue.
I'd also like to be able to haul some barkdust
or river rock, etc.
It's stored outside in the rain, so I thought
I needed 3/4" marine plywood.
But it appears that ordinary outdoor CDX has the same
glue??? And both would need to be painted.
Local bigbox store has some pressure treated plywood.
I don't know how to describe it, but on edge it looks like
it's already delaminating. And I read that it's caustic
to the metal in the trailer.
Any experience/recommendations on whether to use that stuff?
What's the best bang for the buck in trailer flooring for outside
On 5/7/2017 10:58 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
There's not a lot of support under it. Side to side, there's
one main support at the axle plus the front/back ends.
Front to back there are three 1" angle iron supports in addition
to the perimeter frame. The motorcycle support channel
doesn't depend on the floor for support.
I dismissed the idea
of narrow boards. Making them strong enough would seriously
increase the weight.
Is sheathing grade plywood different from CDX?
More words on linseed oil please.
I'd never considered that.
I'm gonna be standing on it balancing a motorcycle
until I get it tied down. A slip of the foot could be disasterous.
What was the original flooor material? Do you keep the trailer
covered when not in use? When you had the original floor, were you
able to transport river rock or equivalent? On the surface it seems
you need something more substantial than what you're suggesting.
~~ If there's a nit to pick, some nitwit will pick it. ~~
Let the linseed soak in - but not pool on the top. You want to
saturate and seal but not "finish"
CDX DFP wood be better than CDX CSP, or even worse, Poplar.
Douglas Fir ply will stand up a lot better than SPF, sold in Canada as
CSP (Canadian Softwood Ply)
3/4" exterior grade Douglas Fir Ply would be the best long term. Mix
the BLO with solvent to penetrate the surface, and apply untill it
doesn't absorb any more, then wipe off with an old towel
I always use turpentine with boiled linseed for a nice rubbed finish. It
should work just as well on the plywood. Besides, it smells good. I use
2 parts linseed to 1 part turp.
Just make sure it's boiled. Raw linseed oil will still be tacky by the
4th of July.
Varsol, odorless paint thinner, stoddards solvent, "turps" - any
number of (usually petroleum based) common solvents used in the
painting and finishing world. Not "hot" solvents like toluene or ether
or naptha, or even laquer thinners.
My "go to" would be the same fluid I use to clean up the prushes etc
- generic "varsol" or paint reducer /thinner.
I'd suggest expanded metal but it isn't all that sturdy. It would
give you good traction loading the bike. Maybe you could throw
plywood over it when you want to haul things beside the bike.
I have no idea how expensive a 4x8 solid metal sheet would cost.
Aluminum would probably be pricey but I don't know that for sure.
You would want 6061 3/16 or better for the trailer floor. With 3/16
it will require re-enforcement. Even 1/4. 5/16 os about $280 for a
4X8 sheet, plus shipping. 1/4 is available for about $350 from "by
the piece" Regular pricing is $430 and $600
Purring 14 guage over plywood would cost about the $110 you are
quoting. And that is all US$ pricing.
I used 3/4" pressure treated plywood when I rebuilt my small utility
trailer about nine years ago. So far it has held up nicely, though I do
keep my trailer in my garage when I'm not using it.
It's hard to beat the cost and simplicity of a sheet of plywood. It's also
lighter than solid wood boards and doesn't have cracks between boards for
bark dust to fall into. If it rots or gets torn up, it's easy to replace.
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