Need a new trailer floor

Oak planks. White oak if possible. Best reasonably priced would be sheathing grade plywood, saturated with Linseed oil or some other oil that won't go rancid.

There's not a lot of support under it. Side to side, there's one main support at the axle plus the front/back ends. Front to back there are three 1" angle iron supports in addition to the perimeter frame. The motorcycle support channel doesn't depend on the floor for support.

I dismissed the idea of narrow boards. Making them strong enough would seriously increase the weight.

Is sheathing grade plywood different from CDX? More words on linseed oil please. I'd never considered that. I'm gonna be standing on it balancing a motorcycle until I get it tied down. A slip of the foot could be disasterous.

Boiled linseed oil will dry faster. First coat, then mix oil paint with some linseed oil, second coat. Seems like wood needs constant maintenance.

Greg

On Mon 08 May 2017 12:26:04a, mike told us...

What was the original flooor material? Do you keep the trailer covered when not in use? When you had the original floor, were you able to transport river rock or equivalent? On the surface it seems you need something more substantial than what you're suggesting.

Some cut.

I'd suggest expanded metal but it isn't all that sturdy. It would give you good traction loading the bike. Maybe you could throw plywood over it when you want to haul things beside the bike. I have no idea how expensive a 4x8 solid metal sheet would cost. Aluminum would probably be pricey but I don't know that for sure.

I used 3/4" pressure treated plywood when I rebuilt my small utility trailer about nine years ago. So far it has held up nicely, though I do keep my trailer in my garage when I'm not using it.

It's hard to beat the cost and simplicity of a sheet of plywood. It's also lighter than solid wood boards and doesn't have cracks between boards for bark dust to fall into. If it rots or gets torn up, it's easy to replace.

Anthony Watson

Let the linseed soak in - but not pool on the top. You want to saturate and seal but not "finish" CDX DFP wood be better than CDX CSP, or even worse, Poplar. Douglas Fir ply will stand up a lot better than SPF, sold in Canada as CSP (Canadian Softwood Ply)

When, not if - and the old PTP was a lot different than the new stuff that rots any metal it touches except stainless ot hot galvanized.

.. and cut it with your household snips ! How handy ! John T.

I don't think many would put this thin aluminum on a trailer bed .. And if the heavy stuff is being suggested - please post the link to that product and price .. John T.

Problem with advice is that people assume you're more knowledgeable than you are... Solvent is a broad term. Can you suggest a particular solvent?

google it

John T.

I always use turpentine with boiled linseed for a nice rubbed finish. It should work just as well on the plywood. Besides, it smells good. I use

Just make sure it's boiled. Raw linseed oil will still be tacky by the

You would want 6061 3/16 or better for the trailer floor. With 3/16 it will require re-enforcement. Even 1/4. 5/16 os about $280 for a

That stuff is basically "wall-paper"

Varsol, odorless paint thinner, stoddards solvent, "turps" - any number of (usually petroleum based) common solvents used in the painting and finishing world. Not "hot" solvents like toluene or ether or naptha, or even laquer thinners. My "go to" would be the same fluid I use to clean up the prushes etc

- generic "varsol" or paint reducer /thinner.

I used 3/4 plywood on mine then sprayed it with used motor oil (thinned with diesel). Re-coat every year or so.

Same idea as the BLO application but a wee bit dirtier.(and using diesel, a bit smellier too!!)