I've read all the threads on LED light bulbs. Not a lotta good things
to say. Directional, wrong spectrum, etc. Me? I like 'em, so far.
I have a regular shaded lamp with a CFL in it. Takes at least 30-60
secs to come up to full brightness. For reading, I have one of those
flex-neck lamps with a directional hood (like pole lamps). I put a
60W LED bulb in it. I bought the cheapest bulb I could find at
WallyWorld fer $2.58. In a directional hooded lamp, it works great.
Full brightness, instantly. Plenty bright enough fer reading when
bounced off a white wall.
Not that I endorse them, without reservation. I'll be damned if I'll
spend $1K+ fer an LED grow light. Not until they settle on what
spectrums are best fer veg/flowering, first. But, fer a couple bucks,
good enough fer reading. ;)
I saw some 60 equivalent watt units listed for $0.99 recently...
Depends on how you expect to use them.
Here, most "area lighting" is from recessed cans. So, very easy to find
an effective LED lamp that pushed all its light out *one* "end".
CFL's, by comparison, try to throw most of their light out the *sides*
Temperature performance of CFL's also makes them less than ideal.
No so with LED's.
When dimmable BR30's and R20's become more affordable, we'll switch
to them and just keep a couple of CFL's for (bedside) "reading lamps"
(where the light needs to radiate in all directions) and (big) CFL
"floods" for the up-lights in the office.
Still looking for high intensity floods (LED, probably) for the recessed
cans in the garage (high ceiling means they have to throw a lot of light)
That's why you put *optics* in front of them!
We've been very pleased with the LED headlights on our vehicle
(haven't ever been *behind* it to comment on tail lights).
Oncoming vehicles frequently flash their "brights" suggesting
they think *we* have ours on (but we don't).
Turn signals illuminate the overhead signs ("next exit 2 miles").
Time will tell how they fare with our heat...
If you try to see LED tail lights from about 45 deg. angle it is very
hard to see if it's on or off. When I remote start my car from a
distance, it is little difficult to confirm car is started and running.
When driving in blowing snow LED lights seem to glare more. And under
the sheet of thin ice in winter.(maybe because it does not produce some
heat like old lights) Also replacement LED light assembly will cost
more. (can't replace individual element in an array)
Yes, headlights have been expensive for more than a decade. Last vehicle
they were $400/each.
Of course, you typically only pay that when you've collided with something.
I can't recall the last time I *replace* a headlight (from wear).
I am much more concerned with all the electronic kit that I'm at
the mercy of a dealer to replace/repair. (I can still drive a car
during daylight hours with a bad headlight; I can't drive it
if any of the ECU's fail!)
I think this issue was resolved several yrs ago, but I could be
I recall fans of Suzuki motorcycles were outraged when they
discovered they hadda replace an entire 4-LED light array, at huge
cost, instead of a single small LED bulb. Suzy changed it to
easily replaceable individual LEDs.
I've seen the same issue with the newer LED stoplight assys. Usta
see a few individual LED bulbs burned out. No more. Seems it's the
total array or nothing. This is weird, as the Japanese usta
live/die for selling entire assemblies. Are the arrays now cheaper
or is it jes companies maximizing profits?
AFAICT, this varies with the make/model of the vehicle.
I think they are minimizing *production* costs. In our case, each
"headlamp assembly" consists of 5 LED emitters -- 3 for "low" and
2 more for "high" -- mated to optics that focus the light in the
desired dispersal pattern.
Making this an assembly means you reduce the labor involved in
aiming 5 individual elements along with their optics. You have
two connectors instead of 5 (for each lamp), two wiring
harnesses instead of 5, etc.
As with many "production economies", this comes at the expense of
*repair* costs (different from "maintenance" costs as the headlamps
have high life expectancy -- higher than incandescent *or* HID;
at least, "on paper" :> ).
Playing krinkle-bumper is where this turns up, in most cases.
Who cares if the bulb is $20 if the PLASTIC assembly into which
it fits is $400? Now it's a $420 bulb! (DIYer can't "fix" the
molded plastic assembly *and* optics)
Likewise, crumple zones mean little accidents (that previously
would have transferred the impact energy to your neck, spine,
etc.) now transfer it to the body shop!
As I said, I am more concerned with all the electronics kit
littered around the vehicle (true of virtually all vehicles
nowadays). None of it likes heat -- yet most of it is
exposed to heat in the normal course of events (esp in the
We test drove a vehicle with forward facing "technology"
(camera, "RADAR", etc.) mounted just inside the front
windshield (forward of the rear view mirror).
Sitting in the running vehicle while waiting for the sales droid,
I watched error messages pop up on the driver's information
display in rapid succession:
- forward-facing-technology-feature #3 failure
- forward-facing-technology-feature #1 failure
- forward-facing-technology-feature #2 failure
- forward-facing-technology-feature #4 failure
(I forget the names of these individual features).
Of course, it was easy to suss out that each of these features
was related to the bit of technology packaged "inside the windshield"!
When I asked the sales droid, his reply: "Oh, it does that when
sitting out in the sun" (WTF? Are we only supposed to drive AT NIGHT??)
Turns out the problem is related to heat build-up in a *stationary*
vehicle -- air flowing over the windshield normally acts to cool
this stuff (doesn't happen when you're parked *in* the sunshine).
Likewise, it's relatively easy to find "bugs" in the systems in
most vehicles -- without looking too hard! :< I was able to
crash the "infotainment system" in a Nissan (Murano, IIRC) purely
by chance -- in the few minutes I was playing with it.
I've already started a list of "anomalous behaviors" that I've
observed in the various bits of technology. Some are just
consequences of the implementation (e.g., if passenger and
driver each have key fobs on their persons, vehicle tends to
think first occupant is driver -- regardless of where seated!),
some are poor design choices and others are "implementation
Thankfully, most of the design choices *seem* to have been well
thought out. In looking back at other vehicles, some of the
same features were present but implemented differently -- in
less "friendly" manners.
E.g., when vehicle is in reverse, many vehicles automatically
tilt the side mirrors downward so you can see what you are
"backing into/onto". Some cars tilt both mirrors. Some cars
tilt one or the other (configured by a user "setting" in a
This vehicle puts that choice in the driver's hands at "run time"
in a reasonably intuitive manner:
- if the "side mirror select" switch (with which the driver normally
chooses left, right or neither mirror to adjust with the "joystick"
on the arm rest) is in the "none"/center position, both side
mirrors remain "as is" when the vehicle is in reverse.
- if the side mirror select switch is set to "driver's side mirror"
(i.e., as if the driver would have wanted to adjust the driver's
side mirror with the joystick), then the left mirror tilts downward
when the car reverses
- ditto for passenger's side mirror
So, leave the switch in the center if you want to disable the "feature"
(this also prevents you from accidentally disturbing the normal setting
of the mirror by locking out the joystick). If you decide you need some
help on one side or the other while backing up, just flip the switch
to that side and the selected mirror moves downward.
[I've not checked to see what happens if you try to use the joystick
at this time]
Other vehicles had cameras mounted around the vehicle to expose various
views in the dash mounted display. IIRC, the Nissan had a downward
facing camera in the passenger's side mirror that would let you watch
the *curb* line while parking!
These sorts of features are an excellent example of why -- contrary to
most *naive* engineer's opinions -- providing too much flexibility
in configuration is A Bad Thing; most users would be intimidated and
not exploit *any* of that ability -- let alone exploit it *wisely*!
One notable deficiency is a lack of *useful* information in an
already BLOATED "owner's manual". There are many things that are
not well documented. And, many others that could benefit from
some detailed examples. I guess they expect you to get this
information from an on-line forum, dealer, etc. And, of course,
there are obvious documentation "errors" (cases where the software
has evolved but the documentation hasn't kept pace).
Then, there are amusing omissions! E.g., the navigation system
can litter the map display with icons for hospitals, libraries,
food stores, ATM's, dealerships (of course!), etc. But, no way to
see where police stations are located! (I've not checked fire
stations or post offices, yet). Amusing when you consider those
things are probably more permanent (less likely to change than
Joe's Generic Restaurant) than most of the "data" that WILL change
Currently, the biggest "*simple* fix" screwup is a failure to add
tactile indicators (i.e., "bumps") to the overhead garage door opener
buttons so you can *feel* for the desired button in a darkened
vehicle (instead of accidentally pushing one of the *other* buttons
It would be fun to design the "user interface" in a car!
More like the salvage yard. You got airbags & tensioners going off slightly
before crumpling occurs. Major $$$ hit. I question repairs. Some shops were
doing dangerous "clips" before these innovations. Of course you pay in
purchase price and insurance. More Fire Co. calls for smoke after a crash
and the reinforced areas are just that. More work with the tool.
(sigh) When I was in (high) school, a buddy's shiny new Audi (?)
got *ss-ended by another friend's "old chevy" (?). They were exiting the
school parking lot doing ~15MPH (?) coasting into the stop sign at
the end of the driveway. Audi stopped, then pulled into the roadway.
Chevy saw Audi continue into the roadway and turned his attention
to the left (to track the oncoming vehicle in the roadway to judge
when *he* could enter).
Audi apparently had a change of heart and reapplied brakes before
No trunk left. Back seat would be difficult to sit in.
Chevy had *no* apparent damage!
Later, discovered that a piece of Chevy's grillwork had snapped
from the "stress of the impact". A bit of epoxy and all was
well. Audi was, IIRC, totalled.
Nowadays, fender benders are the real issue. And, unortunately,
you only have *half* of a "say" in that possibility!
Looks like fender bender but total write off. Neighbor's kid in junior
hockey team(dad was a NHL player for some years, a nice family) car had
some front driver side fender damage but did not look good coz windows
was smashed. Sure enough it was a write off. Similar thing happened to
my kid with his first Subaru RS(non turbo) Tow truck driver did not like
the looks of the damage. He was right. We are just thankful he became a
decent driver after going thru 3 cars.
Sounds like you should tilt those headlights
down a bit, so you don't keep (knowingly)
blinding other drivers. That's quite
inconsiderate to keep blinding other drivers
after being asked many times, and knowing that
you've been asked many times, to dim the brights.
Tell the factory that! Car rides up higher than a
regular car -- should all truck drivers deliberately
point their lights at the ground (instead of "aiming"
them as required?)
Should folks not be allowed to use halogen and HID lights
because they're brighter??
Halogen headlights usta be illegal in CA. Lotta bikers got busted cuz
the CHP knew chopper riders invariably customized their bikes to
include illegal halogen headlights for better see-ability.
So, I was shocked when I got a new job in Silly-Con Valley (long time
ago) that required me to commute at O-dark-thirty. Seems half the
cars on the road had these newer, brighter, headlights. So bright,
they gave me a headache. I usta let my hatchback rear window remain
dirty jes to diminish the brightness of following vehicles.
So, upside, can see better. Downside, $300 sunglasses! ;)
We found the problem was the actual "height" of the lights.
E.g., when a truck's headlamps are at the level of your head,
while seated, it doesn't matter how bright they are; they're
"in your eyes".
People behind you tend to *stay* behind you. So, wherever
their headlights are (focused) now, they will remain there
for the foreseeable future.
OTOH, an oncoming vehicle's headlamps will pass *through*
the point of focus "in your eyes" before the vehicle
gets to your location; it won't *stay* in that "unsweet spot"
indefinitely (unless you are both sitting at a traffic
interchange waiting for the signal to change!)
...unless they are following you at half a car-length and/or driving
one of those 4WD "land yacht" trucks/suvs and their "illuminate
Cincinnati" headlights are "in yer face".
Sheesh! You relate all the proper technical answers, but seem to have
never done any real life commuting or even any real driving. I think
you need to get a "real life" clue. ;)
Did you *read* what I wrote?
"People behind you tend to stay behind you."
I.e., if they are "half a car-length" behind you they will STAY
half a car length behind you -- unlike oncoming cars where the
distance changes with each passing instant!
"So, wherever their headlights are (focused) now, they will remain
there for the foreseeable future"
I.e., "in yer face" -- and they will *stay* "in yer face"!
You should, perhaps, think more carefully about what I've written
before complaining about my lack of "real life" experience.
(Or, should I be writing at a THIRD grade level, instead??)
HomeOwnersHub.com is a website for homeowners and building and maintenance pros. It is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.