I have a 20 yr old Kenmore dryer. It's thumping and squeeling. With the model #, I know what parts I need, Belt, Rollers, Idler Pulley, and maybe the shafts. At the Sears website, they are $58, but I read about a rebuild kit. Do appliance part stores have them? I have a Jacoby's store near me.
Also I have a solid front with NO lower front panel. How does this come off?
Hi,
No model# posted...but some common Whirlpool/Inglis built Kenmore dryer tune up kits:
This may help....if like your model#....
I went in to buy the parts you listed and found that Sears (Whirlpool) had conveniently packaged everything I needed in a plastic bag. I assume your lint filter is on the top. Pull it out, remove the two screws in the top under it. Then pull forward and up on the top and it will lift up as it is hinged in the back. You find two wires to the door switch..unplug these(of course I assume you unplugged the dryer). Then remove the two nuts holding the front to the side, grab the belt and hold up on it so the drum is supported and lift the front up and off the the machine. You figure out what to do from here on. Pay attention to how the belt goes through the idler pulley so it will be easier to replace. The idler pulley will drop to the bottom when the belt is removed as it is just held in place by the belt and a slot in the bottom.
Thanks for those links. The Model # is 110.86572110. I'll try the Sears Service center first, see what they have. Only like 7 miles from me. Never needed a repair so I know the parts need to be changed. It has the 2 rollers in the back.
Thanks for the info, it does have the lint filter on top with the 2 screws. Do the shafts also come packaged in the bag? After 20 yrs they may need to be changed as well.
A couple of months ago I did a complete rework on my Kenmore dryer, 18 years old. I don't have the model number handy, but it's probably the same one. By the time I was done, all I could hear was a smooth, quiet hum.
A couple things ran into: I didn't buy the kit, just the pieces I needed separately. The rollers did not include the shafts, but the looked OK, so I didn't replace the shaft, just cleaned them good and put new grease on them when I replaced the rollers.. No problems.
The rear leather/felt drum "bearing" was burned and cracked. It had folded over the years and was unusable. It's glued on (the glue is included with the bearing). The glue is VERY sticky. About the consistency of wood glue, but dries much faster.
After putting it mostly back together, it was better, but I still had a slight thumping sound & vibration. I took it apart again and looked at the groove on the drum where the rollers ride in (near the back of the drum). There were all kinds of dried glue runs and bumps (from the ORIGINAL bearing installation at the factory). Using a scraper and a wire brush "wheel" in a power drill, I went all over the groove and made it smooth.
When I put back together again and started it, my wife's first comment was "Is it running? I can barely hear it", followed by "you mean it's SUPPOSED to sound that quiet?" This was the first dryer we owned, we had always figured some of the noise and vibration (from the original dried glue runs) was normal.
Here's the items I ended up replacing (sorry I don't have part numbers handy): Belt Idler pulley two rollers (and triangle clips, included with the rollers) rear bearing front bearing (two plastic strips, ours had a crack in one of them. It probably wasn't a problem, but since I had the whole thing apart, I decided to replace them)
All the parts were from a couple local appliance parts dealers. I think I spent around $90 total.
I also took off the back of the driver and removed the lint chute & cleaned it out, well as the heating element. At that time I removed the blower fan from the motor shaft and cleaned it and replaced the seal ($5). I sucked up all the lint in the shell, and used the canned air to blow the lint out of the motor.
Another suggestion: put the dryer near a wall so you can support the top leaned back (don't rely on the clips that hold the back of the top). You could remove the top completely, but you'd have to remove all the wires (I didn't want to mess with that).
Overall, it was definately worth it.
Good luck
Mike O.
Hi,
Your welcome! :)
2 roller style, lint filter on top, a Whirlpool built Kenmore.....and nope, the shafts do not come with any kits and they rarly need changing anyway. 2 roller wheels, belt, idler pulley is most common, some need the rear drum seal at the same time and some do not. Clean out the dryer insides at the same time and motor area, also never hurts to clean out the venting system as well at the same time.jeff. Appliance Repair Aid
I'll pass on the shafts and get the rear drum seal instead. It needs a good cleaning, I removed the exhaust line and it was half clogged. And there was alot of dust under the dryer when I moved it.
I'll be changing mine as well, I haven't looked at it yet. How long should I let the glue dry before putting the drum back in?
Thanks for the tip, I would have forgotten to do that.
I don't remember how long it said to wait, but I don't think it wasn't very long (I think something like an hour). I just did mine the last thing of the day and let it set overnight.
It will take some of the paint off, but since it's outside the drum it doesn't show and it's not exposed to the wet clothes, so I figured it shouldn't be a problem. Besides, I didn't want to paint it and then have to wait for it to dry.
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