Sears Kenmore Dryer noise

[John Taylor]

I have a Sears Kenmore (mfd by Whirlpool) Dryer, model 110.64212200 that is almost 3 years old and only gets light/moderate use. It has begun making an unhappy squeaking/groaning noise during operation. Based on the frequency of the squeaking it sounds like it is the drum rotating that is causing the squeaks, not the motor.

Is there anything that I can lubricate or otherwise do to maintain my equipment? The user manual and installation manual don't offer anything of value other than the parts diagram.

Thanks!

[Tom G]

3 years and light use would seem a little soon for the drum bearings to start wearing out but I would remove the drum and inspect the bearings on the two drum wheels and the idler/tension pulley bearing. It's pretty easy to disassemble and since Whirlpool makes about 60 percent of all dryers sold in the U.S. most books in the library on appliance repair will usually show the Whirlpool being taken apart and put back together. If the bearings look and feel tight, lubricating would help. By the way, it's a good idea to clean all the lint out of the inside of a dryer cabinet every couple of years, anyway, to avoid fire hazard.

Tom G.

[Appliance Repair Aid]

Hi,

Drum support wheels may be suspect. Something caught in one of the drum seals.

It is usually best to replace the item that is making the noise, lubrication ( esp a grease ) can attract dust and cause other problems.

Vent system going outside should be cleaned out once a year, inside of the dryer should be vacuumed out every 2-5 years depending on the dryers useage time.

They normally never will, they offer info on operating the product.

jeff. Appliance Repair Aid

[barbarow]

It could be something simple such as small item caught on the felt strip that rotates against the door.

[nospamtodd]

You have a basic Whirlpool-made dryer. True, it could be something as little as a coin caught in front or rear seal. Yes, you could lubricate, but sometimes replacing is better. Another option, for something like a roller, is to remove the roller, clean the bearing surface of the roller with a light solvent (a Q-tip helps for this), clean the shaft, apply just a drop of oil to the shaft, and replace the roller. The idler can make noise too.

To get access to the drum, unplug the dryer, remove 2 screws at lint screen. Pop the top and rotate back on its rear hinges. Disconnect door switch. Remove 5/16" screws at upper left and right of the front. Pull front a little up off its lower clips, and then away from dryer. Note belt placement so that you can put it all together when you are done.

[Clark W. Griswold, Jr.]

The roller bearings are not lubeable, but a replacement roller kit is relatively inexpensive and you can do it yourself if your mechanically inclined. Dryers are not complicated, once you figure out how to get the top cover and front panel off. While you have it apart, replace the belt. Its cheap and typically breaks right after you put the dryer back together.

[Clark W. Griswold, Jr.]

I've found that dryer bearings are not lubeable. About two weeks later they start squeeking again. And its probably not a good idea to have oil mixing with lint near a burner anyway. Fortunately, roller kits are cheap.

[John Taylor]

Thanks to all for the advice! Looking thru my parts list and poking around online, I found Part # 279948 [Dryer Repair Kit] which Whirlpool apparently has replaced with Part # 4392065. The dryer kits are matched by cabinet size, and this number matches my cabinet width of 29 inches. Sears Parts sells this item for $30.77 plus all of their fees ($29.99 at Whirlpool's site] and I've found it elsewhere for even less.

It looks like they have a do-it-yourself guide as well, perhaps this would be useful.

I'll be tackling this as soon as I get the chance, it doesn't sound too bad.

[Steve Barker LT]

The secret is to use the proper lube. Disk brake caliper lube (high heat) works perfectly.

[nospamtodd]

There are only two rollers you can use: the ones with white hubs, or the ones with colored hubs. Technically, the white ones are the more correct ones, but the colored onese work great too. The only difference in part numbers that you found are due to parts coming as a pair, or coming with other parts in a kit, as opposed to coming separate.

I don't use a whole lot of lubrication on shafts, maybe just a drop when I have used a solvent in that place. The term I have always used for the right kind of oil is turbine oil. I am looking at my bottle right now: Supco Zoom Spout all purpose oil. This is nice stuff to have around.

I would agree that too much oil makes a mess. I don't agree that lubrication is dangerous. It really doesn't get near flame or heat. Avoid lubrication that has high odor. You don't want your clothes smelling like WD-40.

[CDET 14]

[Jonathan]

$25 bucks to read a manual to figure out how to clean dust out of a vent? Geesh. How about YouCanReallyCleanYourOwnLintScreen.com to sell step by step directions of how to clean the screen before each load.

[Tom G]

As the OP said there are two kits, denoted by the width of the cabinet. The

27" cabinet uses four rollers plus idler pulley and the 29" cabinet uses two back rollers only, the front of the drum riding on and being supported by the cabinet front lip. Plus the idler puller. But like you said the rollers may be the same otherwise and the hubs color coded to help in packaging. I do know that the Sears techs would lubricate the bearings as part of the annual maintenance some people paid dearly for.

Tom G