I am stuck

Hi, I was going to switch over rims/tires from summer to winter tonight. One of the rim is stuck frozen on the hub. Rocking with lug nuts loose or hitting with mallet can't loosen it up. Any suggestions to get this thing off? Or do I need a trip to a tire shop. Summer tires are on OEM Al. rims, winter ones are on steel rims

Reply to
Tony Hwang
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Yah need a bigger hammer.

nb

Reply to
notbob

What I would do - me - not you: Back off all lug nuts 1/2 turn from contact with the rim. Drive it forward and back 10 feet until it breaks loose. Turn the wheel back and forth as you do it Brake hard when stopping backwards movement. Never tried, but that's what I'd do. A shop will put ain air hammer on it to break it loose.

--Vic

Reply to
Vic Smith

I also have aluminium wheels, they are a pain. I would loosen the lug nuts a 3/4 turn, and then drive forward in tight circles, but turning the steering wheel abruptly left and right until you hear a clunk. Essentially what Vic said, only a little more aggressive.

Reply to
hrhofmann

Hi, Will report back after trying again.It jappens to be one of the rear wheel> Hope I can finish over the week end. Two more cars to do after this one it's gonna snow any day now. Thank you all.

Reply to
Tony Hwang

Mallet? I'd get at the metal part of the wheel from behind with a hammer, using a 2x4 to prevent damaging the wheel.

Reply to
trader4

Spay it well with Liquid Wrench or similar, let it sit an hour and bang on it again.

Reply to
Colbyt

If ya don't have it unfrozen yet, you can try what we do on truck rims.

Have the vehicle's tire off the ground, sledge the _tire_, not the rim. Rotate tire to different positions so you're not hitting the same area. Do not take the lugs all the way off when doing this, just have them loose.

Reply to
Eddie

PB Blaster. Spray, then wait an hour or so. Good stuff.

Steve

Reply to
Steve B

"Loosen a little and drive" works, particularly on a flat BTDT When you reinstall these, put anti seize compound where the hub goes through the hole. They will pop right off next time.

Reply to
gfretwell

Use a ratchet wrench, then slip a length (maybe 18-24") of iron pipe over its handle to give you greater leverage.

Reply to
Rebel1

Kroil, better stuff.

Reply to
Pete C.

Re-read the OP and then tell us how your suggestion will help.

Reply to
DerbyDad03

Loosen all the nuts on one wheel at a time, drive down the driveway and turn and brake untill they go "thunk" and come loose. When you take it odd, clean up the hub and slather it with anti-sieze before installing the replacement.

Reply to
clare

When I had a hoist available, working at a "shop" I often just backed off the nuts, swung like a monkey from the axle and "mule kicked" the wheel a few times. That was when I was a younger guy though.

Reply to
clare

That doesn't help when the nuts come off but the rim is stuck to the hub.

Reply to
clare

Half a turn is seldom enough. Try 1 1/2

Reply to
clare

Whatever works. Never had a wheel stuck on so bad a couple good kicks didn't break it loose. That's dicey when it's on a stick jack. Had a rotor stuck on so bad it took many full whacks with a 15 pound sledge to get it loose. I screwed the wheel bearing doing that.

--Vic

Reply to
Vic Smith

Yeah, that usually works - although I suppose it's bit of a PITA for the OP if they already have the vehicle up on stands and the other three wheels are off.

I remember on one vehicle years ago wedging a jack sideways between the wheel and the suspension - that freed it up without breaking anything (but don't apply too much force all in one spot, be careful what you're actually wedging the jack up against etc.)

If you use the "crawl under the vehicle and kick/hammer" method, be sure that you know the vehicle is adequately supported - I've heard tales of people being squished that way.

cheers

Jules

Reply to
Jules Richardson

"Slather" is subjective. You want a lot more than you would use on a spark plug, for instance - but I've never had a problem other thancosmetics from using a little more than necessary.. Never had it get "into" the drum, and a light coating between the wheel and the wheel flange helps keep the back of the rim face from corroding.

Reply to
clare

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