probably 15" diameter, 6 inches wide, 6 ply thick? the manufacturer or
previous user picked those out. you might be changing the clearance to
the ground, making tractor unsafe?
poison email@example.com wrote:
If the new tires are taller/shorter You may need to adjust the deck if
You have an exact want/need of grass height..Changing tire size might
throw Yer speedometer off too,,,*grin*..
Last Summer I had just put tubes in every tire on My old Murray
Rider,then I broke the seat,snagged and bent the shift lever and blew
the engine all in about a 10-15 min span..My yard is'nt huge so I could
get along with a push-mower but My Sis(works for JD)gets a good deal
from John Deere and is upgrading Her old lawn tractor(12 1/2 horse),,I
can buy Her old one for $200,,it is an estimated 25yo,,new seat and
fairly recent engine rebuild,,comes with a single stage snow blower
attachment..Is it likely to be worth the money?
I ca'nt justify buying an 07 model for this yard alone and I do'nt
mind tinkering with the old tractors/riders I've had.I do'nt know the
original purchase price of the JD,it could be I'm paying more than it
Those early John Deere tractors are highly collectible and well worth
the effort to repair / restore.
My neighbor still uses a 112 which is much older and has been in
continuous service except for an engine rebuild 2 years ago. I'm using
a 330 diesel of 85 vintage, that will likely last the rest of my life.
If you don't want it, I'll take it.
I'll agree unless it has been so sorely abused as to be a piece of junk
needing more repairs than keep but even then could probably get more
for it than asking as a pieces/parts/salvage source on the collector
Still have a 112 also in continuous usage w/ only a short block
replacement. I finally broke down and put a new carb on it last summer
as the age finally caught up to it and could no longer shim up the air
leaks around the throttle shaft to keep a constant-enough mixture.
After that, it's like a new one.
What I want to do is to have two sets of tires. One set of "lawn and
turf" and another set of "super bite" tires. I have not tried these
tire sizes yet but I do have an industrial tire changer and I don't
expect to have any problems demounting and mounting - setting the bead
I don't know.
I'm pretty sure you hit it on the head 15" overall diameter, 6" wide 6"
If you mow with it, you would want to stay in the ball park to keep the
diameter the same. You could play with width, but it is hard enough to
mount proper sized tires, let alone trying to get a different one to
seat. If it is like most tractors, the wheels become permanently
attached to the axle after a few years and you have to mount the tires
with the wheels still in place.
OK, I'll bite... :)
Why on earth for and how?
Never heard of such a thing on any tractor/riding mower from
'40's-vintage to present. Have had stuff from most everybody --
Ariens, Gravely. Snapper to JD, A-C, Farmall, IH, Case, ...
It could be a pita on some of the older larger farm tractor rear wheels
when they got to 38" and 40" rims owing to the wheel weights plus the
ballast weight in the tires themselves on the old straight axles before
redesigned to make the rims removable from the wheels or to design a
moving mechanism into the wheel hub, but that pretty much was a bygone
relic after the 50's and only really applicable to larger, row-crop
tractors w/ straight axles for adjustable tread width. Certainly for
nothing as small as 15" have I seen anything other than a standard rim
although light mowers or lawn tractors may only use 3 or 4 lug bolt
pattern instead of automotive 5 or maybe 6 on a pickup. You'd
certainly play the devil changing a tire on the inner dual while
leaving the outer wheels/rim/tire in place! :)
I'll grant I've never had Murray or Craftsman kind of stuff, so what
gives with it? (Sounds like yet another reason to not it it's really a
problem... :) )
The problem lies in the Peerless trans axle wheel mounting scheme. The
wheels are nearly a press fit on the axel held on by a single bolt in
the center. After a few years the wheel rust welds itself to the axle,
I've tried a 20,000lb press with the axle out to try to dislodge them,
no joy, heat and industrial penetrating oil, no joy. I've had the bolts
loose for years hoping one would fall off. I finally resolved myself to
accepting the situation, the only resolution would be new wheels and
axles. Thats on my Cub Cadet, my John Deere has proper hubs and lugs.
That must be the later Cadets, I gather? That's one I've not had, as
well, since haven't had local IH-Case dealer for some time. Did have
really old Cub, but that, of course, was essentially an shrunk-down H.
I've never had a bearing or other press fit that couldn't eventually
get w/ heat and puller/press/whatever -- seems really strange something
as light as a wheel rim could be so profoundly stuck. Guess means if
ever do break them loose to make them at least an annual p-m sort of
Sounds like a bummer, for sure... :( Guess I'll know to look closely
if ever see one at an auction and am tempted... :) )
The wheel puller worked but bent the rims outer edge,,no problem to
bend them back close enuff for tubes and the low speeds of the
rider,,tubes were the mission anyway as I was tired of leaking
tubeless..My Murray has a large washer and a clip washer to hold the
rear wheels on,the left was without any washers for *Who knows how
long?* and it stayed on,,even when I wanted it off!! That little 10
horse,rear engine could climb and mow tho!Just gotta climb at an angle
and watch the front wheel on the high side!
It's good to hear that JD has a better wheel system as that's the
next old rig I'm going to have,then maybe it'll be time for a brand
spankin new one..An old Craftsman was My first victim,picked it up dirt
cheap just to learn,,the Murray too..The JD is going to cost as much to
buy as the other 2 cost to buy and add a few parts parts to..A year or
2 with the JD and I'll use My Sis's 25% off and buy new.
Eric in North TX wrote:
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