Hunter remote control ceiling fan - how does it work - how do I fix it?

Harry S Robins snipped-for-privacy@nothere.uk wrote in news:v4vffs$3i6kr$ snipped-for-privacy@news.usenet.ovh:

Since you say you were asked to 'fix' the fan, I'll assume it once worked fine, and now it just won't spin.

When you press a button on the remote, does the remote light blink? If not, replace batteries. If yes, check to see of the dip switch settings are the same on the remote as they are on the doohicky. But, if the fan blades used to spin, I suspect that the switches were set correctly.

If the switches are set correctly, and new batteries (if needed) don't help, I'd replace the remote. I've installed six remote controlled fans in my home (they are heavy indeed), and it is rare for a remote to go out, but it has happend.

One other thought...if this is a much used remote, and the batteries are ok and the switches are set correctly, perhaps the pressure sensitive pads inside the remote are worn. I have a remote where this is the case, and I have to be sure to press extra firm on the buttons to make it work.

Good luck.

Probably, some replacement tv/electronic remotes might be programmable for that device.

Since it is a Hunter fan, it would be easily programmed with the Hunter Biden laptop.

Good point.

Good point.

I had a "portable air conditioner" without its remote, but looking for universal remote [brand name] found me one. $20 or 25 iirc on amazon. This is if you can't find the exact Hunter one.

But don't lose the instructions. I did, and the battery went dead and now I don't know what code I need to have it send the right set of signals. I should scan them and put them in the computer and then back them up, but I didn't.

Look up the manual for the remote online.

Bypass the remote module by applying power directly to the fan wires, safely, of course. If the fan works, the problem is either with the remote module or with the actual remote. It would be a big step forward to determine whether the fan works or not.

I assume you know the very basic wiring that's involved here, but if not, the wiring diagram is captured on one of your photos.

None of that until you verify that the fan works when the remote module is bypassed.

The light works - using a pull-chain - are we to assume that : 1. there is no pull-chain operation for the fan ? 2. the fan pull-chain doesn't function ? I know if it was my ceiling fan, I would want to have pull-chain controls in case the remote failed. John T.

Thanks for your questions and for the starting point you had to assume.

I apologize for not being clear with enough information in the OP. She long ago lost the remote to the fan on/off and fan speed control.

The remote is gone but I do see a DIP switch in the receiver which is hidden inside the (heavy!) fan housing in the ceiling, as shown below.

Can you tell if those DIP switches are set to 0000 or to 1111?

Thank you for the suggestion of testing whether the fan works when directly energized which I did try but I failed at doing for a variety of reasons.

Mainly I couldn't get the test jig to work as I had to shove two copper wires into the hot and neutral of the wall outlet and then wrap them around the wires in the fan and at the same time trying not to get electrocuted I had to hold the heavy fan and allow the long blades to spin.

As you can imagine, without a decent test jig, that's easier said than done.

So at this point, while I fully agree with you that I should be able to energize the fan with it on the ground, I was unable to test that it works.

Thank you for asking those questions and making those suggestions.

I agree with you that I'd want two pull chains, maybe three:

1. A pull chain for the light bulbs (if the wall SPST is turned on)
2. A pull chain for the fan on/off & speed (in case the remote is lost)
3. And a switch or pull chain for the direction of the fan spinning

Apparently the owner lost the remove long ago, but there is no pull-chain provided for the fan. There is only a separate pull chain inside the light-bulb housing that controls the DIRECTION of the fan spinning. But there is no manual control of the fan on/off or speed operation.

Here are some more photos showing what it looks like.

I am on a two-hour hold with Hunter right now asking the questions you suggested, where I agree with everything you said above should be there. 1.888.830.1326 snipped-for-privacy@hunterfan.com a. Hunter Fan/Light Model 23300 420 (with pullswitch for the light, & with another separate pull switch for the fan direction only!) b. Hunter Remote Radio Receiver (in the ceiling) 84368 560 c. (missing) Hunter Remote Radio transmitter (hand held)

I will write back to let folks know what Hunter tells me when they pick up.

Thank you everyone for your suggestions, as I had never worked on a ceiling fan before so I thought they worked like garage door openers do, where you can just buy a compatible remote and you'd set the DIP switches & be done.

It took hours, but I got a hold of Hunter customer support today at

This is what the Hunter 23300 fan looks like from the outside.

So they say there are only four solutions (the first two of which make little sense to me - but I have to believe what Hunter support told me).

1. If I could find a compatible portable remote radio transmitter, that would be the simplest solution - as I only have to match the 0000 (or maybe it's 1111) PIN code in the receiver that is mounted inside the ceiling fan housing. But Hunter does not sell them.
2. However, what Hunter does sell is this compatible wall mounted transmitter, whose power comes from the 120VAC SPST switch in the wall that operates the power to the Hunter fan & light bulbs.
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3. If I want to buy a matched radio transmitter/receiver set (which requires replacing the receiver inside the fan housing), they suggest this (but then I have to remove the fan all over again).
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4. And if I want to replace the radio transmitter/receiver as a matched set using a wall outlet instead of a portable remote, this works.
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I never dealt with ceiling fans before so it came as a surprise to me that they are designed to only work with radio transmitters. I would naturally think they'd be designed to work both ways (manual & radio).

In the end, the simplest (also cheapest) option appears to be to replace just the wall outlet, but then the owner has to deal with change (which she doesn't really like dealing with) to use the ceiling fan by the wall switch.

But, as Jim Joyce said, all this is moot if the fan doesn't work. What I needed was a 120VAC cord with three alligators. And a way to hold the heavy unit while the fan is energized.

I didn't have that so my sorry attempt at testing the fan failed.

Harry S Robins snipped-for-privacy@nothere.uk wrote in news:v54bfg$3ltrh$ snipped-for-privacy@news.usenet.ovh:

I can't see the dip switch setting. All I can tell is that they are all in the same position, down.

In your hunter03.jpg, I see a hook in the fan's ceiling housing. That hook is to hang the fan when doing the wiring. Perhaps you could hang the fan from the hook to test with your 120v rig.

(Whenever I had a fan without a hook, my wife used to hold a fan up to the ceiling housing while I connected the wires. Of course, this took two ladders, and patience <g>.)

Harry S Robins snipped-for-privacy@nothere.uk wrote in news:v54c23$3lu99$ snipped-for-privacy@news.usenet.ovh:

I agree, especially since the fan is back up in the ceiling. I've had to replace two remotes, and I was able to find compatible replacements.

Here's one:

Looks like you'd have to pull Romex and cut out a switch box.

Yeah, have to remove fan again.

Looks like you don't have to pull Romex, but have to cut out switch box.

Actually, I've installed two ceiling fans that were controlled from a

Boris snipped-for-privacy@invalid.invalid wrote in news:XnsB1988ED042B46Borisinvalidinvalid@135.181.20.170:

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Yes. That's all I can see also. I think it's not a big deal as it's either

Oh. Thanks. I was wondering what that rather sturdy hook was for.

Now I know. It would have helped a lot if I knew what that hook was for because it was a bitch getting the fan up the ladder and back onto the wires. That's one reason I do NOT want to remove the fan again.

I had to put it back because it's not my house so I didn't want to leave it open for the time it takes me to figure out a solution.

Trust me. That's the hardest part. I agree with you. It's a bitch.

I think the simplest solution would be to find a 350MHz remote that meets the requirements of FCC ID IN2RX10 (as you noted in your other kind reply).

Thanks for that information. The light in the fan is controlled by a wall mounted SPST switch - but I think the reason you said it needs to have a switchbox cut out is that it's likely too small, is that a correct assumption? (See photos in the previous post of the existing wall wiring.)

Thank you for that "universal" remote which has to be 350MHz to work.

And thank you for that other remote too.

I will keep looking as what you found is very close and I appreciate that you found it as buying a compatible FCC ID IN2RX10 remote is the simplest, cheapest & fastest solution!

What I would do is bypass the remote module temporarily to make sure the fan works. Like you said, if it doesn't, then everything else is moot and your friend will be looking for a new fan. It probably works, but it's nice to actually know.

1. Wall switch off. Breaker/fuse off (for safety)
2. Remove the fan blades.
3. Remove the unit from the ceiling, don't disconnect the wiring yet, and hang it on that large hook that they've helpfully provided for exactly this purpose.
4. Identify the wiring:

1. White should be connected to white. This will always be the case.
2. Connect the 120VAC black (hot) wire to the Hunter red (light) wire. With power fully restored and the wall switch On, the pull chain should turn the lights on/off. You've already said that this part works.
3. With power off, disconnect the 120VAC black (hot) wire and connect it to the Hunter black (fan) wire. With power fully restored, the wall switch should turn on the fan, albeit at only High speed. If it works, you're golden and ready to select one of the 4 repair options. If it doesn't work, go shopping for a new fan.

I don't recommend using a wall socket or anything with alligator clips. You can, but it's decidedly less safe than using the wires that are already in the ceiling. Whatever you do, I recommend removing the fan blades while you're working on it. Eventually, you'll be glad you did.

Do search on ebay.

If the owner doesn't want to do that, it's not in contention as an option. I vote for replacing the fan with a new one that operates as the owner desires. It will come with a warranty and an installation/user's manual.