I am installing chair rail moulding in my house, and would like to ask you
to share your experience in how you cut moulding in inside corners. Web
sites says that you have to cut one peace 90 degree angle and moulding from
another wall should be cut so in matches profile of another moulding.
Example (step 6):
But my moulding is very thick and to cut profile into another moulding is
very very hard job. What are disadvantages if I'll cut 45 degree angle on
bouth joint peaces?
Thanks for your info.
WHEN not if, but WHEN the miter opens up a little bit, it will be less
visible using a coped joint. A miter joint gives the eye a straight-on
view of the wall through the gap.
A coped cut isn't too difficult...
1. Install one piece cut at 90deg to fit the wall.
2. The adjoining piece is cut at 45deg as if you were doing miter.
3. Draw a pencil line on the front edge of the miter cut
4. Using a coping saw cut away the excess to fit the first piece
5. Then and only then, cut the other end to fit flush to the opposite wall
Starting in a corner can be a bear if you have to make two coped cuts on
the same piece of wood, so I usually start at a door frame and work from
The larger the molding the more difference the coped cut makes...
Thank you very much for your answer. If I understood correctly, it is
important first to cut adjoining peace at 45 deg angle before doing coping.
If I'll make 45 deg angle cut, then coping should be easier, but will that
leave gap at the back of the moulding in place of joint?
You misunderstood, you install one piece clear up to corner with 90 degree
cut. To cope the other piece, you first cut it off at 45 degrees, as Brad
said. Reread his post. You don't cut both adjoining pieces at 45 degrees.
First, it depends on where in Canada you live. The moisture content
of the air doesn't vary that much in the prairies, varies a great
deal in the east.
Coping a corner (as you describe above) is preferable where moisture
levels vary because wood swells and contracts, and mitred corners can
open, leaving an ugly gap.
In the prairies, this is less a factor.
If you are going to mitre the corners, don't cut them at 45 degrees.
Get an angle finder with at least 12" arms and use that to find the
angle of the corner. Divide by two and make a trial cut with pieces
of scrap. If you get a great fit, make your cut.
Remember, too, that walls are not smooth and straight; the thicker
the material you use, the more noticeable those gapes will be.
For mitre cuts and thick material, I'd recommend you use paint grade
moulding ... filling and painting will hide the imperfections.
If you are going stain grade, perhaps select a thinner material and
cope it. Fill gaps along the wall with clear silicone.
Thank you everyone for info. I'll work on this tonight.
Bambam - you said to fill up gaps along the wall with clear silicone. I was
planning to paint moulding before attaching it to the wall and then fill
gaps with white caulking. Will that work?
Whatever you do. do not use silicone. Paint will not stick to
silicone. Use painter's latex caulk.
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
Any caulk will work but if you use silicone make sure it is
*paintable* silicone...regular isn't.
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Use a cope (it looks more difficult to do than in reality). If you
just use 45 degrees, the joint will eventually separate and won't look
too good. If you don't have any experience coping, buy a couple feet
of molding and practice.
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