Yup. I went through that last year when the stator on my DL-650 smoked. Judging from the forums that's not a rare event. The V-Strom doesn't have a lot of body work but it all has to come off so you can get the tank off so you have some hope of getting to the connectors.
I've got a DR-650 and a Sportster too and they have me spoiled.
Yeah, there's always something. In the F150's it's a removable cross member that the tail shaft sits on.
That depends on how level you can get the engine.
That's no fun... ATF in particular keeps your skin nice and soft.
Hmmmm... this is another thing I never thought of. I will be on "adjustable" jack stands from HF. The 6 ton size. They have those gear teeth. That's the limit of adjustability.
How do you measure that the engine is "level"? I have levels, of course.
In fact, I "tried" to measure the level of the transmission when I did the lube change a few days ago. Here is a picture that I didn't put in the DIY of me trying to figure out if the tranny is level.
I gave up because I didn't have a good flat spot.
I knew the garage floor was level though.
So how do you check the level of the engine? Do you just try what I tried with the transmission and look for a suitable flat spot?
OK. I will look for 20 degrees then. There is forward, back, and side.
Are all three tilts needed? Or just two?
This is really good to know for a whole bunch of reasons.
One is that the saddle will be easier to store and less money than a complete transmission jack.
The other is that the floor jack is the beefiest one that Costco sold years ago (maybe ten years ago?) where the only thing I would change if/when it breaks is I'd go to aluminum instead of the heavy steel.
How does this "Floor jack transmission adapter" model 39152 look?
Unfortunately, it looks like it's no longer sold though.
OK. I'll look for more than five degrees of tilt.
20 degrees in fact. Forward and back. Is side-to-side necessary?I'm ok with draining since it's easy enough. Plus it makes it slightly lighter. But less messy is more important. Plus, thinking forward, if I spill anything, I have to drain it anyway because I won't know how much spilled to replace exactly the spill.
So 20 or 30 front to back is good? What about side to side?
BTW, a friend said he can give me an unused still-in-the-box motorcycle jack from HF so I will take a look at that tomorrow to check out the spec.
If tilt is what I need, then I will have to get more tilt.
A friend is letting me have a motorcycle jack if it fits the bill so I'll check that out tomorrow.
It's the best Costco steel floor jack of about five to ten or so years ago so it does have a removable saddle. Dunno on the size.
You need screw style jack stands for precision leveling:
I hesitated when I wrote that. The axis of the engine's crankshaft when it is supported has to be the same as that of the transmission's input shaft. The whole lashup could be at a 20 degree angle relative to the floor as long as both match.
Another way to look at is the perpendicular mating surfaces need to have matching angles.
snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca posted for all of us...
MAYBE they had this there as part of crash protection... IDK why they would do this?
Thanks for clarifying that the engine needs to be in line with the transmission shaft, where they look (to the naked eye) parallel to the garage floor that the vehicle will be parked on.
On Wed, 20 Sep 2017 00:30:51 +0000 (UTC), Chaya Eve wrote:
I know this is long but there are zero DIYs that I can find on the net for my particular vehicle but there are a few that are for "similar" vehicles from Toyota (see the reference section for what DIYs I did use).
How does this "future DIY" look for putting a DIY together?
New Tools: . Buy/rent/borrow/steal a transmission jack or saddle Jack:
Parts for the Toyota W59 transmission (Toyota 4Runner, 2WD, base, 5-speed). . New clutch disk (apparently Aisin, Eddy, or MC but not LUK or XTD; 1200# weight?) . New pressure plate . New pilot bearing (is that the same as a throwout bearing?) . It is said to only use the factory NSK throwout bearing (orange inner seal) . New #136? flywheel (resurfacing=$60 Kevin @408-379-7290, All Standard) . New rear main seal (since you're pulling the flywheel anyway) . Locktite Red (flywheel bolts & clutch cover bolts) . Locktite Blue (starter and bellhousing bolts) . Maybe a new slave cylinder (they don't last forever)
Existing tools: . Lots of 1/2-inch sized u-joints . Literally 2-1/2 to 3 feet of 1/2-inch socket extension bars (16" bare minimum) . Snap-ring pliers (for the transmission case snap ring) . Gear pullers . Torque wrench & sockets (all 1/2 inch sized) . Note that the 4-cyl ten 14mm flywheel bolts are 12 point (not 6 point)
Existing fluids: . 2.7 quarts replacement 75W90 GL4 gear lube . Thick high-moly graphite grease to lube the spline input shaft & ID of throwout bearing . Toyota FIPG for the rear main seal (RTV is ok but not as good) . No grease on diaphragm springs, pressure plate or throwout bearing face. . Light grease on throwout bearing ID, input shaft splines . Light grease on clutch fork pivot points & outside the shaft collar
Torque specs: . Starter bolts 30ft# . Bellhousing bolts 54ft# . Flywheel (either 19 ft lbs+1/4 turn for 3RZ or 65ftlbs for the 2RZ and 5VZ engines)
Here is my tentative DIY (composite from a few non-correct-truck DIYs): (It's detailed because I have never done it; so I might miss a critical step otherwise.) . The night before, PB blast (or oil and bang) all bolts if necessary (mine are clean) . Check before/after clutch pedal free play (1/4" to prevent throwout bearing wear) . While the 4Runner is on the ground, put the transmission in 1st gear . Remove the cabin gear shift mechanism . While above, snap pictures of the pitch-fork-shaped wiring harness from above . . If possible, unbolt the "conning tower" for the shift mechanism . Disconnect the battery negative cable (since the starter bolts will be removed) . Then 4x-jackstand the car as high as you can get it (I have four 18", 6 ton stands).\ . Attempt to level the vehicle as best you can so the engine is level with the trans . While below, snap pictures of the pitch-fork-shaped wiring harness . Loosen both the fill plug and drain plug (should be easy as I just drained it 3 days ago) . Drain the expensive Red Line MT-90 I just put in! (20 bucks a quart!) . (Lesson for next time: Use cheap gear oil for the first flush-fill & then the good stuff.) . Remove the rear-facing drive shaft 14mm bolts & pull out the drive shaft (do first if hard) . Remove 2x12mm bolts for the clutch slave cylinder & hang safely on hangar wire . It is said to not follow FSM procedure which says to remove exhaust pipe (leave the pipe) . Remove 17mm bolts holding exhaust pipe bracket to transmission housing . I don't know if the next step is needed because some say yes while others say no . Remove 12mm bolts holding exhaust pipe into the bracket (these may be corroded) . Do no separate the exhaust pipes! . Remove 2x10mm oxygen sensor bracket bolts holding the wiring & sensor to the housing . Remove the reverse light sensor . Remove the speed sensor . Remove the oxygen sensor . Remove the 7/8ths-inch speedometer cable hex cap . Remove the main harness which connects to a bell housing bolt . Remove two 14mm bolts around the starter housing . Remove the bottom set of forward facing long 14mm or 17mm bellhousing bolts . Remove the bottom series of rearward facing 14mm bolts around the bell housing . Remove anything else in the way . Zip tie any cables in place so that they don't get damaged later . Then support the transmission with a transmission jack or jack saddle . Strap the transmission in routing the straps under any wires . Remove the 12mm and 14mm bolts holding the rear transmission mount assembly . Remove the top series of three short 17mm bolts on the bell housing . These are said to need a 1/2-inch short socket, swivel, & at least 16" to 18" socket bars . The frame cross member is welded in so you need to twist the transmission . Tip the front down an twist the front of the transmission to the driver side . Lower the transmission (most seem to do it by hand even when they have a jack???) . In a star pattern, remove the series of 12mm bolts holding the clutch into the bell housing . You must snap pictures of the asymmetrical nature of the clutch disc before removing . V6 has the springs toward the flywheel; the 2.7L I4 has the springs toward the trans . Remove the clutch disc . Remove the pressure plate . Remove the ten (12-point) 14mm bolts ringing the flywheel to the engine . Have the flywheel replaced or resurfaced . Remove the pilot bearing in the back of the engine with a bearing puller . Most DIYs stop right there (reassembly supposedly being the reverse of removal)
On reassembly (which most DIYs ignore), these topics came up after the fact: . A screwdriver wedged into the flywheel teeth immobilizes it for bolt tightening . It is said that so does a punch through one of the flywheel holes . The wiring harness layout has to be considered while lifting the transmission back . It is said to put it in gear when aligning splines (allows output & input shaft to turn) . Input shaft alignment stage 1 is getting the splines to go into the clutch disc. . Input shaft alignment stage 2 is the last inch onto the input shaft bearing . Jack fine tuning matters in that last inch (use bellhousing bolts as alignment pins) . It is said the bellhousing has an alignment dowel near the slave-cylinder mount . It is said to grease the top & inside of the clutch fork ends . And grease the adjoining surfaces of the throwout bearing. . Grease the divot in the middle of the clutch fork . Just before you install the clutch slave cylinder, grease the divot at the end fork . Cover the clutch fork mushroom bolt with HD grease.
References this came out of (none of which are my vehicle and year) .
Most engines that I've come across are not "parallel to the garage floor". In fact, most are inclined at a slight downward angle. There are reasons for this and it has to do with driveshaft alignment. More likely to be horizontal if the vehicle has a triple jointed driveshaft.
As always, observe the RTFM principle before doing anything.
The clutch alignment tool does not need to have splines. That said, most people of my acquaintance keep on hand a swag of transmission input shafts from trans rebuild jobs. Ask about the possibility of securing one of these at a trans place near you. Alternatively, I have had success building a shaft that is too small up to size using humble old plastic electrical insulation tape. Did that on the tractor I recently changed a clutch on since we didn't have the exact dummy pilot shaft we needed, and it worked perfectly. Necessity is the mother of invention, not to mention cost savings.
No. It is the bearing or bush that fits into the back end of the crankshaft and supports the front end of the gearbox input shaft, hence supporting the weight of the clutch plate.
Pressure plate bolt torques? As critical as flywheel bolt.
Learn to differentiate between pedal free play and release bearing free play - you should be able to feel two (2) distinct steps - pedal play, then release play. Some systems work on zero free play at the release bearing (e.g. carbon thrust block types) but, in the case of hydraulic systems, there is *always* a need for free play at the master cylinder end. This is to ensure correct operation of the MC hydraulics.
This will impact on how far you can lower the transmission to possibly gain the required clearance from the transmission hump or access to upper bell housing bolts.
This point can, if care isn't taken, result in damage to the exhaust pipe if following the point immediately above.
The above two steps will always be a case of *it depends*.
That movement in other than the fore and aft direction that the trans mount adapter needs to be capable of will be of great assistance here.
Depends on how strong/old you are.
No mention of what you should be inspecting for, both on bits you intend to replace and those you intend to refit. Flywheel face, for instance.
No mention of cleaning and safety precautions associated with same.
These are the sorts of things tradesmen learn, and do, almost as a reflex action after many years of involvement with the trade.
Top gear always.
As a learning process, when you have the trans out, select low gear, turn the output shaft and discover why top gear is the choice.
Use care on the type and placement of any grease. Excesses can be bad news as can the wrong type of grease.
At one time I had a generic alignment tool. It had a number of interchangeable ends for the various pilot bearing sizes, and a tapered guide to fit various sizes of clutch bores. However they now have very inexpensive plastic tools for most popular vehicles. iirc the one I got was $3 or $4.
We had such a generic alignment tool available. The issue was that it didn't handle the dual clutch system on the tractor at all well. The local dealer didn't have a *factory one* for the tractor but he lent us one he'd made up on a lathe. It wasn't a firm fit however, hence the need to pack it up with tape. Coupled with 4 alignment dowels, made out of bolts with heads removed, fitted into the block, the mating up process was the smoothest I'd ever encountered.
I have to openly admit I don't understand this step. None of the DIYs referenced show HOW to do this step. So it's just something I wrote - but it means as much to me as it would to a fifth grader.
I can imagine that there is a shaft that has long "grooves" in it that has to fit into "something" that has correspondingly long "opposite grooves" in it.
But I don't have any feel for why a special "tool" is needed to get the two sets of matching grooves to line up. I haven't seen any pictures of that yet nor videos. So it's just words to me at the moment and not an image in my mind.
It really is a case of *I see, I know, I do and I understand*. What you need to get your head around is the relationship between the flywheel, the clutch plate and the pressure plate. Sectioned views of a clutch in operation will help a lot here.
Like this;
Note, it shows the pressure plate bolts. Bonus! ;-)
Observe what happens to the clutch plate when the clutch pedal is depressed. It is no longer clamped between the pressure plate and the flywheel. It is on the splined input shaft however so is still correctly located and, more importantly, centred. What would happen if the input shaft wasn't there? Nothing to centre the clutch plate. That is the situation you face when you are bolting the pressure plate up to the flywheel with the clutch plate sandwiched in between. A dummy shaft or an alignment tool can hold the clutch plate in the exact correct alignment while you fit up and bolt down the pressure plate. When it's in the exact centre, you will have no trouble fitting up the gearbox with its input shaft.
Yes, it can indeed be like that - but it doesn't need to be.
The alignment tool comes with the gearbox. It is the input shaft and the issue arises that it is an *integral part of the gearbox* and attached rather firmly to it. You need a *temporary input shaft* when assembling the clutch and pressure plate. That is all the alignment tool is.
I REALLY don't think so. Hint: no splines on the flywheel.
The clutch disk has to line up with the pilot bearing.
Yes, you are of course correct, I made an error about spline on the flywheel. Brainfart.
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