All cars with AC essentially do that. It's how you get the fog off the inside of windows when it's cool outside. Even though AC is not needed the compressor runs, the air gets chilled, removing the humidity, then warmed back up.
All Japanese cars, I'm told, are hydraulic. This one certainly is hydraulic. I bled the slave cylinder months ago but it didn't do anything.
I went through my photos in my fluid change DIY where I didn't snap one of the pink slave cylinder but in the far left you can see the rubber-booted actuating mechanism into the clutch that the slave cylinder operates.
I can have her press the pedal but I'd have to know how much travel to look for at the transmission itself.
I'm all with you on the fact that the "miracle oil" must be an anomaly of some sort because I just can't believe it makes that much of a difference between a non-working transmission when cold making a K turn out of the garage and a working one, when the fluid level was not low (it was actually
20 ounces too high).
This was posted earlier in the thread.
The question is whether to get that or this:
They have more expensive transmission jacks but this is expected to be a one-time use so it doesn't need to be super sturdy but just sturdy enough.
I got the shop manual (and a helmet!) for free from the dealer (the helmet was a factory promo) in 1982 when I bought my first GT650M Sebring (as I recall).
It sucked. But I did use it to adjust the cam shims, as I recall. And to replace the alternator (they used a *permanent* magnet!).
But it still sucked. Millions of steps are missed.
Still, I agree that the FSM is required. But that doesn't make it not suck.
Wrong picture.
This picture shows the transmission.
There is some kind of "mount" at the rear (right in the picture). Since this is the 2WD, it looks kind of roomy down there.
I noticed the $100 transmission jack had a "5 degree forward tilt".
Do you have any idea how much forward/backward tilt is usually needed?
I will repeat that I was shocked that the fluid change made what would clearly not shiftable when cold, now shiftable. (New fluid didn't change the clutch pedal feel issue of course - but it magically "fixed" the fact that a cold K turn out of the garage required multiple killing of the engine where now that's not needed.)
This is what the top 20 ounces of the old clutch fluid looked like:
And this is what the bottom 72 ounces of clutch fluid looked like:
Where 2.9 quarts came out but the spec is for only 2.7 quarts.
This is the gunk that was in the drain plug:
I think the only thing "wrong" with the fluid that I could tell is that there was 20 ounces too much and it looked pretty dirty.
Certainly it should have been changed long ago, where it could be the original 20 year old fluid if the clutch job five or so years ago didn't replace it.
I know the history of the car from day 1, so it definitely only had one time where there would have been a chance of the fluid being changed, and that was the clutch job years ago at half the current mileage.
There is a release cylinder? Googling for "toyota clutch release cylinder" shows up stuff.
Here's a boot for the "clutch release cylinder" but is that the same thing as a "slave cylinder"?
The master/slave cylinders may be bad. I will check them for leaks. Dunno if there is anything else that can be checked yet.
I agree. The one thing though is that the clutch is going to *need* to be replaced soon anyway as it has had the same clutch for five years or more.
snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca posted for all of us...
+1 on that. Also +1 on the fluids.On Thu, 21 Sep 2017 17:43:58 +0000 (UTC), Chaya Eve wrote: SNIPP
And the fence post doesn't give you the tilt that the jack saddle does (it really converts the floor jack to a transmission jack)
Well, for starters it only gives you FIVE degrees of tilt. In my experience that is seldom enough.
I have a policy (developed from YTARS of automotive service) od ALWAYS draining a transmission before removing unless it has a fixed output flange.
Notice it has a full 60 degrees of tilt - 30 in each direction. MUCH more usefull than the 5 degree motorcycle jack that "also works" as a transmission jack (sorta)
Don't waste your money and effort on the $100 solution - it is NOT a viable solution.
The saddle WILL work, as long as your jack has a removeable saddle and the pin on the trans saddle fits or can be adapted to you jack saddle mounting hole.
The transfer case on a 4wd does complicate things "somewhat".
and a threaded rod or some other form of adjustment for the tilt. I also find that having a second adjustment on the tilt plate to be useful - tilt at 90 degrees to the first - so that you can align dowels on the bell housing. Necessary when the gearbox weighs a ton or so.
It is the *critical spec*. Without it you can easily end up with a buckled clutch plate or difficulty getting the shafts aligned. The tractor I did recently had a dual clutch, one plate was for the PTO, so there were two splines to line up plus a pilot shaft. Flexibility is key.
If the jack isn't Ok for 100 jobs, it isn't Ok for 1.
Not a fool at all - you did your homework.
The floor jack you have, with a proper attachment, is better than a $100 transmission jack
If you have only one floor jack, the second option is better. That will leave your floor jack free for general use. The second option would not suit my needs however - the load carrying capacity is too low.
A friend's wifes BMW snapped an aluminum bolt on a motor mount, causing the engine to shift out of position. Being a retired machinist he took it apart and was able to remove the threaded portion of the bolt from the block? and replaced it with a steel bolt. This was the mount that fastens the engine to the chassis - and I believe it was the bolt that fastened the mount to the engine block.
I'll try to remember to ask Ted next Wednesday at lunch.
For the price of a Bimmer, it should all be better than just "pretty good" My old Mercury Mystique was "pretty good" on all those counts too. Went like a cat on a hot tin roof - and cornered like it was on rails. That little n2.5 V6 (Porsche design with Cosworth heads.) was a pretty willing engine - and just as capable.
Must have had the same engineers that designed the German Fords.
The stylists look after the rest - under the constraints of the bean counters.
The same could honestly also be said of a Chevy Vega - - -
Virtually all cars with "automatic temp control" or "climate control" work the same way - just the the Chermans need to put their own (twisted) twist on everything. Teutonic engineering.
The RIGHT oil can make all the difference - or is it the wrong oil???
There may be several oils that work "OK" and one that really screws thins up, or in some cases one oil that works well, and half a dozen that cause varying degrees of bedlam.
The secret? Use the recommended oil or one of the same spec (possibly enhanced)
A WHOLE lot more than 5 degrees - generally at least 15. Most good trans jacks give you at least 20, and in both directions. For the Yota you only NEED it to tip the one way.
Potato potauto - same thing.
They can bind. So can the linkage. The pivot ball on the release (throw-out) fork can also wear and stick - and so can the release bearing (where it slides on the "nose" of the transmission)
If the driver knows how to use the clutch, that is immaterial. My ranger had 307000km on it when I got it - with the original clutch - and the clutch was less than half worn - I had to replace the internally mounted release cyl/bearing assembly so we put in a new clutch at the same time. The truck was 17 years okd - it is now 22 with 354000km on it.
Like a Harbor Freight jack :) From the reviews t doesn't sound like it holds the transmission securely without some extra work. I don't rag on Harbor Freight often but I've had mixed success. I bought a floor jack and it does work but on the first use it spit the saddle out when the rivet failed. Nothing that couldn't be cured with a bolt but still not the greatest quality. China Freight is what it is as they say. The Pittsburg wrenches aren't bad and I carry them on the bikes. If somebody rips off the tool tube it isn't a major loss.
With HF, the less moving parts the better. I'd definitely go with the saddle adapter if you can find one.
You betcha. It's very unlikely the engine will be parallel to the floor and the clutch splines aren't very forgiving about coming in at an angle, nor is the pilot bushing.
I can't give you a concrete number but typically they're designed to use most of the travel of the slave cylinder. Obviously it can't bottom out on either end but you should see smooth travel throughout its range of motion, with a little play in the lever when it's fully retracted.
I'd definitely go with the adapter if you can find one that will work with your floor jack. It would be about half the cost and from the sounds of the HF reviews easier to use.
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