He who is Clare Snyder said on Sat, 11 Nov 2017 15:19:54 -0500:
Thanks for your advice, which I appreciate, and where I relize I provided
no pictures so everyone had to guess, which won't help so here are some
Here is the clutch slave cylinder:
Here is a picture of the only adjustment there is in the clutch mechanism:
To get rid of a spongy feel, I rebuilt the slave cylinder:
And I rebuilt the clutch master cylinder:
And then I bench bled both:
Using high quality DOT 4 fluid:
But the clutch now suddenly engages late in the pedal uplift cycle.
There is nothing that can be adjusted at the slave cylinder.
The only adjustment is the bolt that attaches the clutch pedal to the
clutch master cylinder.
The only adjustment there is to twist the rod and lock it in place with the
But which way engages the clutch sooner?
Shorten the rod . BUT as Clare said , some are self-adjusting and it
may come right back to where you are now . I had an 89 Chevy p/u that
never really released the clutch properly , even after slave/master
replacement . I figure the arm was bent inside the bell housing or
something . FWIW I discovered with that truck that the best way to get
ALL the bubbles out of the system was to pump fluid in thru the slave
bleed port . Pushes them up to the master , a direction they want to go
On Sat, 11 Nov 2017 20:54:19 +0000 (UTC), harry newton
Like I said.
Youhave a "self adjusting" hydraulic clutch. There IS NO height
adjustment. The pedal adjustment is toi be set so there is a small
clearance between the push-rod and the push rod seat of the M/C.
"shortening" the push rod will drop the pedal but will have no effect
on the clutch engagement.Your clutch is worn out
(retired auto mechanic speaking)
He who is Clare Snyder said on Sat, 11 Nov 2017 17:36:46 -0500:
Thanks. I admit. I'm confused. I obviously need to read up on clutches
because I did not realize that my clutch is a self-adjusting clutch.
And, to tell you the truth, honestly, I understand your words, but I don't
understand the adjustment at all.
Now I'm more confused than ever, because I don't see the difference between
a "self adjusting clutch" and a "not adjusting clutch".
I understand your words, but I don't understand (yet), why they bother with
a pedal adjustment then.
I hear what you're saying below though, and I'm trying to faithfully figure
out why you adjust what you adjust.
Here is a picture of what you're saying, I think, the adjustment is for:
http://wetakepic.com/images/2017/11/12/pushrod.jpg> The pedal adjustment is to be set so there is a small
Hmmm.... how do we MEASURE what it should be when we're upside down in the
What do we measure?
I'm not at all disagreeing since I clearly don't know what I'm doing.
I'm also clear that I'm confused because I _thought_ the one adjustment
there is was for when the clutch engages.
If that one adjustment is only for the master cylinder pushrod clearance,
what's the implication if it's adjusted wrong versus right?
On Sun, 12 Nov 2017 05:23:21 +0000 (UTC), harry newton
No difference. There is no manual adjustment. Period
That adjustment is for initial setup so the cyl returns to it's fully
returned position, so the compensating ports in the master cyl are not
covered by the "cup" or "seal" on the piston with your foot off the
Tou just wiggle the rod. It should be free of the cyl piston
"socket". On manycars there is a "return stop" that adjusts the hight
of the un-depressed pedal by limiting how high the return spring can
pull the pedal. On some cars it is incorporated with the "clutch
safety" starter inhibit switch, which also chuts off cruise control
when you step oin the clutch.
If the clutch return stop is adjusted, the push rod must also be
adjusted to maintain that small clearance between the rod and the M/C
Too loose and the rod will fall out of the cyl, and you will alsp
loose "stroke" on the cyl - meaning you may not be able to fully
release the clutch. Too little clearance (negative clearance, or
preload) prevents the slave cyl from fully returning, because the
fluid pressure in the system is never released. This can cause the
release bearing to wear out and can also, in severe cases, prevent the
clutch from fully engaging
replying to harry newton, Iggy wrote:
Yes or whichever way works, there are different setups. But, you need to leave
some slack so the pressure plate can release, so you don't burn through the
clutch very prematurely. However, if everything was fine up until recently then
you need a clutch-job as your pressure plate's springs are fatigued and it's
nothing to do with cable stretch.
replying to Clare Snyder, Iggy wrote:
Wow, not at all correct! But, that's all I get from you any which way. By the
way, clutch disks are meant to be ground all of the way down and more with no
driver perception by a working-properly pressure plate.
Believe what you want. I've been a mechanic for decades, and
replaced a LOT of clutches on vehicles from Minis to Loadstars, and
small tractors to large loaders. The first symptom of a failing clutch
is engaging close to the top. The second symtom is not having enough
"up travel" to engage. When the pedal gets too high on any vehicle
with a non-adjustable (aka "self adjusting") hydraulic linkage, it's
clutch time - pure and simple.
replying to Clare Snyder, Iggy wrote:
Yes, you agreed with my conclusion that he needed a clutch-job and no fooling
around with the pedal. And FYI, Volvo, Ford, Honda, etc. all had cables as well
as both cylinders at some time. I tried to cover all bases with no year, make,
model, pictures nor experience level known. But, to say the clutch isn't a
system and you'd only pop in a new clutch disk is ridiculous, foolish and
He who is Iggy said on Sun, 12 Nov 2017 03:44:05 GMT:
Since there is this discussion which I didn't understand at first, I just
now did some looking up on this cable things where it seems there are two
completely different clutch systems.
Where it says, with respect to adjusting:
"Mechanical clutches have a cable for actuation, and typically
need adjusting throughout the life of the clutch. Hydraulically
actuated clutches tend to be self-adjusting"
On Sun, 12 Nov 2017 05:48:58 +0000 (UTC), harry newton
And before cable actuated clutches were "full mechanical" linkages
with push rods and bell-vcranks and pivots and all manner of JiunJiu
that needed regular lubrication and ajustment to
keep the system from falling apart.
Keep searching and reading, and you will learn. Just don't be like
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