How do you drill through stainless steel at home?

[Jim Wilkins]

He did assume that titanium coating implied quality.

[Vic Smith]

I know you like that thing. So put it in the kitchen. Hang this on the BBQ.

Don't mean to be a SS drilling party-pooper. but hey.

[Transition Zone]

Maybe mapp gas with oxygen might be hot enough to punch a hole in stainless steel.

[jim]

It takes a certain level of ignorance to believe that it is possible to be "able" without ever actually "doing".

[The Daring Dufas]

I had a thought that if you're wanting to attach a chain to it and it has a hollow handle, you could use an expanding concrete anchor and a bolt with Loctite 262 to keep the bolt/screw from coming out. ^_^

TDD

[jim]

Yup.

[DD_BobK]

not true...think outside the box

[Jeff Liebermann]

More:

1. Wood handle. Find a suitable block of wood or wood pot handle. Drill, route, bore, or auger a 1/2" hole down the center and a 1/4" hole out the back end. Drop in a 1/4-20 nut. Slop some glue (RTV?) over the 1/2" handle and slide the block of wood over the handle. Screw an eye hook to the 1/4-20 nut.

1. Vinyl cap plug. Drill 1/8" hole in tip of cap plug. Insert nylon cord through hole. Add a washer for support. Tie a knot so that the cord doesn't slip. Shove cap plug over 1/2" handle. Done.

2. Concrete mold. Make a wooden form for pouring concrete. Slide

1/2" handle through a hole in one end. Insert a plug that will eventually be a hole for hanging. Add concrete. Let harden. Remove plug.

1. Acrylic mold. Same above except using acrylic resin.

2. Shaft extender. Find a piece of steel (not aluminum or copper) tubing with 1/2" ID. Cut to length. Pound over 1/2" handle. If you can't get an interference fit, add glue.

[Jeff Liebermann]

Ordinary thin wall heat shrink isn't really strong enough. What he needs is the really thick stuff used for insulating electrical connections and that has sticky goo on the inside, much like what someone with initials J.L. mentioned.

However, if that's too much trouble, just use a hose clamp instead. Form follows function.

[DD_BobK]

Then your original description of the desired outcome was incomplete / inaccurate. :(

You do not want to merely "hang the opener". You want it to be available for use AND you want to make sure it doesn't "leave". A different set of constraints.

Sounds like you need a lanyard system or a system to "train" the kids.

You have an amazing ability to complicate the simplest tasks and cause threads last a very long time.

I can only wonder what the next "hidden constraint" might be.

[Danny D.]

Interesting, they call it a "Church Key".

I have an old (way way way old) one, Ballantine stamped on it, stored somewhere in the garage.

[Denis G.]

propertypages/302.asp

I'll see your nylon and raise you a pliable vinyl end cap.

[Uncle Steve]

The difference between the men and the boys is the boys can maybe afford to run out and buy every shiny tool on the market, but the men can make their own tools.

Recently I had to drill through a short length of tool steel. Needless to say, titanium-nitride coated bits didn't even start the hole. I found some advice on a web-site which suggested using a torch to remove the temper in the area of the workpiece to be drilled, which was not an option in my case since the item I was working with was about 1" x 1/2" x 1/16". Plus I don't have a forge yet. Another suggestion was to use a wooden dowel and some grit, which is going to take a while.

I ended up hanging a jar of coins from the drill-press handle in conjunction with the dowel method. Periodically you have to replenish the grit under the dowel, but it went through in a few hours. Stainless steel is softer than tool steel, so a carbide tile bit might work instead.

Regards,

Uncle Steve

[Michael A. Terrell]

Little did he know how dangerous you would be in that field. ;-)

[Ed Huntress]

Here's a thought to keep in mind for the future. It's the way that gunsmiths annealed spots on (case hardened) '03 Springfield receivers, for drilling to mount a scope.

Cut the head off of a 12d nail, or use other appropriately sized pieces of mild steel bar. Chuck the nail or bar in your drill press and mount the work firmly in your vise.

Get the spindle turning at a medium speed, bring the nail down onto the work, and press down firmly. You want to make a spot glow at least dark cherry red from friction.

Take the nail out of the drill chuck and chuck your drill bit. Drill as deep as you need, or as deep as you can. If necessary, remove the bit, re-chuck the nail, and do the whole thing again. The annealing doesn't run very deep.

I've used this method to drill flat springs, and it worked great for me. It also leaves a minimum amount of distortion and a minimal heat-affected zone.

[Danny D.]

This is an important point!

< begin embarrassing truth >

First, I tried shoe goop + leather strips. Disaster. Luckily, the shoe goop cleaned off the stainless perfectly.

Then I tried rubber strips (made by cutting a 26" length of bicycle tube strips about 1/2" wide. Wouldn't stay on even though I used glue (it unwound while the glue was setting.

Then, in frustration, I simply used electrical tape and hanging wire! Butt ugly!

But, as Jeff said, form follows function ... And, as Oren is fond of saying, "looks fine from far away!".

Here's a picture of the abomination! (Drilling would have been prettier!).

Notice the Ballantine Church Key from the 60s' next to it. At least they had holes in the ends way back then.

I'll probably unwrap the electrical tape when I find something better - but - for now - it should work (but it's fuuuugly).

[Danny D.]

I like that idea best!

I can easily find a piece to fit, and it would look nice too!

I'd have to varnish it (it's going to hang outdoors, but then, I can at least DRILL the hole in the wood!).

That's the best idea of all!

[Danny D.]

Heh heh ... you never did like me! :)

[Jeff Liebermann]

Ever notice my domain name? The Cal Poly motto is "Learn by Doing" (Discere Faciendo). I didn't quite get the translation from Latin correct and ended up with "Learn By Destroying". It was appropriate Destruction and resurrection form a great learning experience. At the time, I think I held the record for maximum damage in a single semester. At graduation time, the faculty committee could not decide if they should require that I hang around another year as punishment for past indiscretions, or to summarily graduate me in order to get rid of me.

Working in electronics was somewhat less destructive mostly because I decided that actually thinking before I did something was a good idea.

[Uncle Steve]

Sounds reasonable. I'll test that out one day soon.

Regards,

Uncle Steve