Oooh, I could have fun making a 'novelty' hanger for that!
Anneal the handle, drill lengthwise, swage or epoxy in a cable loop
with a "Remove Before Flight" tag.
Variations on the Hangman's Noose make good decorative tool handle
grips with loops.
If there's no TIG handy, there's always JB Weld. I use brazing filler
rod for making rings for such things, the local Ace has welded brass
and steel rings in a variety of sizes in the misc. hardware aisle. Or,
if you gotta have heat involved, silver braze will work. Kind of
overkill for a fancy church key.
Post said "can opener" and I'm thinking some variety of Swing-Away,
not a church key. Does anything drinkable still come in steel cans
that need puncturing? Tomato juice and V8 are all I can think of and
those would be the big cans, not individual serving sizes.
-I'd grind a very small flat spot with a Dremel tool (to prevent the
-drill bit from skating) and anneal the end with a propane torch. You
-can remove any discoloration with polishing.
Can openers are hard enough to keep their edge while puncturing steel
cans, such as tomato juice comes in..
"Cold working will dramatically increase the hardness of this
I've seen tensile strength listed as high as 200,000 PSI for Type 302
used for pallet strapping.
You could hang the can opener by a Prusik loop of fancy boot lacing
etc around the middle:
This knot survives handling better than a square knot:
If you use braided Nylon cord you can melt and fuse the ends of the
loop and roll the warm joint flush so it nearly disappears.
On Fri, 8 Mar 2013 07:50:25 -0800 (PST), "Denis G."
It's unlikely that annealing with a torch will do much. The
overwhelming problem drilling stainless, of the common 300-series, is
what Dan said: work-hardening.
With grades 304 and up, the work-hardening effect is fierce. It
requires some experience and a steady hand to drill it with a
manual-feed drill press. It will work-harden in a fraction of a second
and it then becomes problematic whether you can re-start the drill
through the work-hardened layer. That's what burns the edges of HSS
drills used on stainless more than anything else. It breaks them, too,
in sizes of 1/4" or less.
I understand your concerns with the work hardening. It can be a
difficult problem, but not always impossible. As long as he doesn't
break the drill bit in the hole (causing more complications), I
believe that he can remove work hardening with heat. He has some
advantage in that he's drilling near the end of the rod where it can
be easily heated without warping the piece. It could be difficult,
but not necessarily impossible. (If the drill bit broke in the hole,
I'd weld on a D-ring and cover up my mistake <g>, but then the OP
might not have a TIG welder.)
On Fri, 8 Mar 2013 10:41:16 -0800 (PST), "Denis G."
He can. And then it re-appears in a second, if he doesn't feed with
sufficient pressure ('way more than he may be used to with common
grades of steel).
It may be that his only problem is with the initial state of the
stainless, in which case annealing can solve the problem, if the
stainless was left in the as-rolled state to begin with. More likely,
though, he's starting too slow, with insufficient feed pressure, and
work-hardening it himself. That's so common for people who aren't used
to machining stainless that I thought it was most likely.
< >> doesn't mean you should always undertake to do it in future.
Pointless and stupid is all you understand.
Speaking of stupid....
It was pretty stupid for you to pretend you choose
not to fix a car or drill stainless for any reason
other than you simply have no idea how to do those
I can't speak for anyone else, but I will try a job once to learn how
before I send it out. Then I can understand the fab shop when they
suggest changes to ease production. That mattered when we were trying
to push the state of the art in aircraft digital radios while staying
with commercial process limitations.
Too often electronic designers know nothing of creating the package
their brainchild must live in. Several times I've entered a project as
the lowly lab tech and bootstrapped myself up to systems integrator
after showing the engineers I could handle every aspect beyond their
initial schematic design, freeing them from its drudgery.
Proof-of-concept models I machined at home helped enormously.
Then I have to switch from building to buying as much as possible
because I'm swamped with designing and assembling all the circuit
boards and coordinating the interfaces between each engineer's part of
The difference as a hobbyist is that I allocate more time and less
money so the balance shifts toward building. Plus each task I can
learn to do on the car brings me closer to truly owning it, instead of
it (and the dealer) owning me. My shop may have paid for itself by
making special tools from scrap to let me do dealer jobs like $600
timing belt replacements.
>I'd grind a very small flat spot with a Dremel tool (to prevent the
> drill bit from skating) and anneal the end with a propane torch.
Maybe mapp gas with oxygen might be hot enough to punch a hole in
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