How do you drill through stainless steel at home?

Ya know, I just remembered that I used my Dremel Tool to make a hole in some extremely hard metal on one occasion. I used a little carbide ball bit and it worked quite well but wasn't as fast as drilling. ^_^

TDD

Reply to
The Daring Dufas
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Hi Jeff, Actually every one of those would work!

You're very clever (we should invite you to our weekly "inventor's lunch" up in Palo Alto on Wednesdays).

I've been needing to buy a bench grinder for years, so, maybe I'll use this as my need-based tooling!

BTW, the chinese-finger-trap seems the most clever!

Reply to
Danny D.

Oooh, I could have fun making a 'novelty' hanger for that!

Anneal the handle, drill lengthwise, swage or epoxy in a cable loop with a "Remove Before Flight" tag.

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Variations on the Hangman's Noose make good decorative tool handle grips with loops.

Reply to
Jim Wilkins

I was born in Germany. Sorry, no accent left.

Today, they use a laser.

I think you might mean Electrical Discharge Mangling:

During my Cal Poly Pomona daze, part of the general engineering curriculum was to run the prospective engineer through every possible metal working machine available. If they had it, I tried (to destroy) it. My favorite was the submerged arc welder, where I successfully created a hot powdered metal and flux volcano. Another was a rather large spot welder, where I convinced a not very swift student to apply grease to his sheet metal parts before welding. The result was a small grease explosion, and a burn line across his shirt from elbow to elbow. My councilor decided that electronics would be a safer major for me.

Reply to
Jeff Liebermann

Hi Jeff,

Up until you said that, I had simply assumed it was two different components. Looking closely, and snapping a picture in the sunlight, now I'm not so sure. It just might be one piece!

Here is a large photo of the junction between the flat & the round:

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Small photo of the same thing:

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Reply to
Danny D.

I don't invent anything. I steal all of my ideas.

You'll also need a left-handed wrench for removing/installing the grinding wheel.

I just noticed the coil cord on the telephone handset. Wrap an old handset coil cord over a hook, around the handle, and add some glue. Totally ugly, but easier than drilling.

Personally, I like the shrinking leather knife handle wrap method mostly because the result will be more artistic than the others.

Reply to
Jeff Liebermann

I have one of those! I've never used it (it came with the bits). I'll see if it works.

Reply to
Danny D.

It's two pieces with a tack weld at the joint. You can see the puddle of metal in the photo. Also notice that the polishing marks are in different directions on the two parts.

Reply to
Jeff Liebermann

I had to get out a broken grade8 stud that was below the surface of the block on a generator engine and the Dremel Tool made a hole for a screw extractor. A drill bit wouldn't work. ^_^

TDD

Reply to
The Daring Dufas

I understand your concerns with the work hardening. It can be a difficult problem, but not always impossible. As long as he doesn't break the drill bit in the hole (causing more complications), I believe that he can remove work hardening with heat. He has some advantage in that he's drilling near the end of the rod where it can be easily heated without warping the piece. It could be difficult, but not necessarily impossible. (If the drill bit broke in the hole, I'd weld on a D-ring and cover up my mistake , but then the OP might not have a TIG welder.)

Reply to
Denis G.

It takes a certain level of ignorance to believe that it is possible to become "able" without ever actually "doing".

Reply to
jim

What are the odd the opener will be in use, and hanging on the wall (use for the other hole) at the same time?

Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus

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The hole is in the business end, so you can't use it.

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Much like the heat shrink tubing someone with the initials C.Y. mentioned?

Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus

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BTW, the chinese-finger-trap seems the most clever!

Reply to
Stormin Mormon

Apparently you immediately concluded I was making a reference to you. Why did you think that?

Reply to
jim

Wasn't than an old native american torture?

Reply to
Boris

Oh, I forgot to mention the kids!

If I just hank the opener on a hook, it will never be there, trust, me, after just one pool party!

Like the hole punch in my office is cabled to the wall, if I don't "string" it to the BBQ, it will not be put back on a hook by the teens!

Reply to
Danny D.

He can. And then it re-appears in a second, if he doesn't feed with sufficient pressure ('way more than he may be used to with common grades of steel).

It may be that his only problem is with the initial state of the stainless, in which case annealing can solve the problem, if the stainless was left in the as-rolled state to begin with. More likely, though, he's starting too slow, with insufficient feed pressure, and work-hardening it himself. That's so common for people who aren't used to machining stainless that I thought it was most likely.

Reply to
Ed Huntress

< >> doesn't mean you should always undertake to do it in future.

Pointless and stupid is all you understand.

Speaking of stupid.... It was pretty stupid for you to pretend you choose not to fix a car or drill stainless for any reason other than you simply have no idea how to do those things.

Reply to
jim

I can't speak for anyone else, but I will try a job once to learn how before I send it out. Then I can understand the fab shop when they suggest changes to ease production. That mattered when we were trying to push the state of the art in aircraft digital radios while staying with commercial process limitations.

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Too often electronic designers know nothing of creating the package their brainchild must live in. Several times I've entered a project as the lowly lab tech and bootstrapped myself up to systems integrator after showing the engineers I could handle every aspect beyond their initial schematic design, freeing them from its drudgery. Proof-of-concept models I machined at home helped enormously.

Then I have to switch from building to buying as much as possible because I'm swamped with designing and assembling all the circuit boards and coordinating the interfaces between each engineer's part of the circuit.

The difference as a hobbyist is that I allocate more time and less money so the balance shifts toward building. Plus each task I can learn to do on the car brings me closer to truly owning it, instead of it (and the dealer) owning me. My shop may have paid for itself by making special tools from scrap to let me do dealer jobs like $600 timing belt replacements. jsw

Reply to
Jim Wilkins

Jeff Liebermann Inscribed thus:

Now now... He definitely doesn't want to do that :-(

Reply to
Baron

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