I need to glue glass to neoprene or maybe it is is some other black,
glossy, flexible, rubber-looking substance. What glue etc. should I
Is it worth trying to rough up the glass? If so, should I use
sandpaper, emery paper, etc?
I don't know yet if I can clamp the two things together.
My new-to-me 2000 Toyota Solara Convertible all of a sudden came
unglued at the top of the rear window. The window is glass and shows
no sign of any adhesive having been used. Maybe they used heat
alone?? It's in the 60's here for a few more days, and I have a heat
gun if you think that will help.
The other piece would be under tension if I glued it just where it
was, but if I leave 1/2" not glued, it will reach.
Alternatively, I could maybe find some thick black plastic sheeting
and glue one end to the window and the other end to the neoprene.
Which is better?
Maybe I can put a couple pillows on top of the rear seat, and lay a
2x4 (or 1x6 which I would have to buy if you think it's worth it) on
top of the pillows, and gently lower the top so that the neoprene/
glass rests on the wood board, and then put weights on top of the
glass while it sets. Good idea?
Every other convertible I've had had a vinyl "lower boot" under the
rear window, which safely collected the water. I pioneered putting a
drain hose in the boot, when I r ealized leaks could not be avoided.
Years later, the '84 Lebaron came with drain hoses factory installed,
and the 88 and 95 had them also. Unfortunately, the lower well in
this car isn't vinyl but is that fuzzy-covered cardboard, and it won't
do well if it gets wet, plus it will leak into the areas below it. I
think Toyota didn't plan ahead.
my corvette convertible glass window came unattached from the top, which
is some kind of plastic coated fabric cloth.
i used 3m VHB tape. it comes in a roll, is double sided, and very
sticky. if you put it somewhere, it will NOT be coming off or allow you
to reposition it.
Most of these use the PVB that is sandwiched between the two panes of
glass that make up the window.
It is then bonded to the top. The catch is that it doesn't really hold
up that well exposed to air/cleaners/acid rain and such.
If I was doing the repair I would probably make up a frame out of
stainless that would clamp the top material and a lip that the glass
could be bonded to with urethane.
RTV will stick to glass very well, and will stick to many "rubber" materials.
The urethanes are stronger (mostly because RTV has poor shear strength) but
don't stick as well to glass. Still, I'd try the 3M Weatherstripping Adhesive
(the yellow stuff) experimentally to see.
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
This might be the original window, 11 years old. I've found that tops
last me about 7 years and windows last through 2 tops. )The top still
looks very good,)
My own experience has been that none of the 3 convertible windows I've
had break had iiuc an inner layer. That is, all three shatttered
into many pieces about the size of a raisin. The first was a 65
Pontiac that got broken during the middle of the day, maybe by kids
playing ball. The pieces were all over the lower boot. Then I had a
73 Buick with a scissors top and a guy was jabbering at me and the top
was screwed up, the sides were out of sync, and I broke the window
myself lowering the top**, and the third came from an 88 LeBaron, I
had a new top and window put on and I had him save me the window, so I
coudl see for myself how hard they are.
First, they all flex some, amazingly since they are glass***. I
stsood the window in a garbage can and whacked it about 10 times, each
time harder, until finally I used a hammer iirc and wacked it really
hard and it finally borke. Like the other two, all the pieces
separated. I don't think they were even very sharp, some how.
***I think maybe my home and storm windows flex too. I'm not sure. No
thermopane (except the sliding doors), separate windows, and I'm
pretty sure one bends, which would mean they all do.
**Scissors tops were only used on Buicks and Cadillacs I think (and
Chevys or Olds?), from '73 to 76, when GM thought that the NTSB was
going to require roofs to be strong enough to support the car. They
were a terrible design and the NTSB never requried that. So thiis is
not an issue many people face.
ever seen the little safety hammers by bus and train windows? they
weigh less than 1lb, but will smash tempered glass with ease because
they have a hardened point that will initiate cracking, and with
tempered glass, that crack instantly progresses into the thousands of
small pieces that the glass then becomes.
if you have to smash tempered glass, get a piece of broken spark plug
insulator, place that on the glass sharp side down, then strike that
with a hammer. works every time.
A piece of spark plug ceramic itself will break a piece of tempered
glass for some strange reason. Tempered glass will break easily if you
tap it on the edge...especially the corner. And I believe those hammers
were phased out by spring loaded center punches.
it's not strange, it's just outside most people's experience. it's all
perfectly normal if you're a fracture mechanics and stress
edge effects. glass surfaces are flawed. flaws can propagate into
cracks. tempered glass works by using tensile stress within the core to
compress surface flaws so they don't easily progress into cracks. but
you can't compress an edge because one of your three dimensions is
missing. on a corner, you're pretty much removing two of your three
dimensions. so, no compression means easy crack propagation.
often, yes. harder to get wrong if an operator is panicking.
So I gather, prior to getting the tape I need, if I continue to let
my window go thump when the top edge of the window passes the top rear
edge of the rear seat, I have a greater risk than normal, a pretty
high risk, of the window breaking. ??
When the Lebaron separated from the curtain, it was at the bottom of
the window and the top went down and up as usual. In fact, after
trying 2 or 3 times, I eventually realized I didn't even have to fix
it, because the rain ran down the window, into the vinyl lower boot,
and out the drains.
you can hit a tempered window with a baseball bat numerous times, and it
won't usually break. the hitting is not cumulative. you can scratch it
with a nail and it will shatter the first time.
tempered glass is formed by cooling the outside faster than the inside,
putting the outside in tension and the inside in compression. glass is
very strong in compression, very weak in tension. the differing force is
released during a scratch on the surface or edge.
it's great fun to set off a tempered sheet of glass, but you'd be
picking up glass chunks for quite a while. i use shattered tempered
glass to build art pieces.
And actually MUCH easier to destroy the whole piece at once.
Just chip the edge or create a rapid high stress point on the surface.
The high stress point has to be a POINT though, even a hammer head
diffuses the impact enough.
Use a sharp pointed hammer though and it will take out the glass with a
We use glass hammers, spring punches and even car antennas to take out
glass during extrication.
For laminated it's harder, especially some of the new structural support
glass. With that a sawzall and a glass blade work well. Evan the glass
master is hard to work with on that stuff.
Well, based on your experience and what you say and what I've been
reading now, it sounds pretty good.
Does it have a liner on both sides, so I can cut it to fit without it
getting stuck on the scissors? And so I can put it on with less
trouble? (I would make my own liner for the unlined side, but I
guess it would stick to the tape!)
And is there any way I can get some without spending 72 dollars?
Although I will if I have to.
Now much did you buy, and if it wasn't that much, where did you buy
it? Maybe they only sell one kind, which would make it easy for me.
Also, there seems to be at least 15 kinds. Black and clear (and
white), different thicknesses, conformable, and bond specific
Do you know what exactly you used? I'm sorry I'm such a pain.
If it weren't so expensive, I wouldn't ask so many questions.
3M has this page:
I clicked on sort by price, but it didnt' sort by price. It had a
few reolls for under 50 dollars. Also it shows non-tapes, but I
couldn't get rid of them.
Googling, I find a lot of people trying to find small amounts, and
other people recommending 3M molding tape, but you have to let it set
overnight, without any moving. I doubt I can do that. .
The 72 dollar roll is narrow too. 1/4 inch? I'd rather have a shorter
roll of wider stuff. If I run two narrow strips side by side, and
they don't match perfectly, do you think it will be very visible
(very? at all?) through the glass (I won't buy white) ?
Thanks a lotl
P.S. Office Depot has it, but it costs between $700 and $2500!!
it's been 4 years now, in phx, so has a lot of heat/sunlight but not
very much rain. it's still 100% stuck, and waterproof.
it has a wax paper type on both sides. you peel off one side, lay it in
place, peel off the other side, and touch the 2nd surface. press down a
bit, and it's stuck. no need for clamping or any great pressure.
i use it in my glass work, so had some although i'm out currently. i use
it to attach glass art pieces to backing (metal, granite, etc) displays.
you probably don't need 36 yards though. you could always sell the rest
of the roll on ebay per foot and make back more than it cost. lots of
people need this but don't want a whole roll.
you might try calling a car window repair shop, or if near a large body
of water, a place that repairs boats. it's used to hold boat and car
windshields in in some places.
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