If you need like a dozen sleeves, buy the complete No-Hub coupling and toss what's not needed.
If you're looking for like a thousand of 'em for a project, see if the company will accomodate you:
The HD link didn't work. The No-Hub coupling includes the stainless band and 2 clamps plus the inner neoprene sleeve. HD has them in some sizes. A plumbing supply house would have all sizes.
Jim
Hi. Does anyone know where I can purchase, online, the neoprene sleeves used in conjunction with no hub connectors when connecting cast iron drain pipe and pvc drain pipe. These are the sleeves that get rolled over top of the cast iron and pvc before the no hub connectors are tightened. Preferably 3 inch. Thanks.
BTW, I tried googling, and all I got was descriptions. I used neoprene sleeves + plumbing.
Sorry about the no go with the link. See if this works then navigate to page 2 for the photos.
Thanks again.
Another thought here, are these sold as a kit, or is the sleeve packed (tucked) inside the coupling and I have to pull remove it from inside the coupling when I get it home?
I read the info on project at HD. What is of concern to me is the section #3:
Cut the replacement pipe. Measure and mark out the length of the replacement PVC pipe and cut a section 1 inch shorter than the span to be replaced.
Well, after the repair is made and the 2x4 supports are removed how is this jo>Another thought here, are these sold as a kit, or is the sleeve packed
The sleeve is packed inside the stainless band, but you can remove it. The band opens up so it can be snapped over the joint later if that helps. Jim
That's a genuine concern and you're right. It all depends on the actual situation.
If there is a lot of unsupported stack above, then it ought to have framing for support beside just the No-Hub coupling. Jim
I think you may be confused. The neoprene sleeve is a tube; it cannot be "unwrapped". It has to be slid over the pipe ends.
The stainless band CAN be opened (unwrapped), or it too can be slid over the pipe ends. Jim
Glove = Neoprene sleeve. It comes with the stainless band seen in the pics. The band + sleeve = No-Hub coupling.
The sleeve isn't "rolled up" , it is merely "coaxial" with the stainless band.
The HD guys chose to "fold back" (like foreskin) 1/2 of the sleeve in order to allow the new pipe to be inserted.
The alternate method (which I like) is to slide the sleeve ALL the way onto the new PVC pipe. Then, when the new and old pipes are aligned, simply slide the sleeve half way off the PVC and onto the old pipe. Jim
The neoprene sleeves have a "ridge" in the center, which will space the pipes about 1/4" apart. I would have cut the pipe to allow about 3/8" to 1/2" total spacing.
You could use a section of cast iron; it's a matter of convenience and what material is on hand. Jim
Thanks Jim. So I can basically use it as it is sold in its round state, or I can actually unwrap the sleeve and put it like a glove over the joints?
Good point jam about the framing and such. The reason I brought this up originally, I had a section of cast iron drain pipe do this, and the plumbing company who fixed this did the same thing as far as the no hub coupling connections with the intact cast iron and a replacement piece of pvc, but didn't unfold and wrap the sleeves around the joint, they just left the no hub as is and connected it over the joint. I didn't know if one practice was accepted over the other or is there an advantage of doing it one way or the other (unwrapping the sleeve or not)?
Confused, almost probably. Certainly wouldn't be the first time and won't be the last :)
Can someone explain to me why one would use PVC instead of cast iron as the replacement piece? After all, one already has a cast iron chain cutter to cut out the existing damaged pipe. And, while we're at it, why is the pipe cut a whole inch shorter than the length removed?
I believe for ease of working and not having to pour the lead joints, but I agree with your take on the 1 inch gap they suggest. Wouldn't one want the fit as snug as possible to guard against a big seepage, then the gasket does the rest to seal it?
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