Hi. Does anyone know where I can purchase, online, the neoprene sleeves
used in conjunction with no hub connectors when connecting cast iron drain
pipe and pvc drain pipe. These are the sleeves that get rolled over top of
the cast iron and pvc before the no hub connectors are tightened.
Preferably 3 inch. Thanks.
BTW, I tried googling, and all I got was descriptions. I used neoprene
sleeves + plumbing.
If you need like a dozen sleeves, buy the complete No-Hub
coupling and toss what's not needed.
If you're looking for like a thousand of 'em for a project,
see if the company will accomodate you:
Thanks for the link Jim. That is one part I would need, but how about the
sleeve (almost glove like) part as seen in this link:
Where would I get that, I saw in your link you sent, only the actual
coupling, not the sleeve.
The HD link didn't work.
The No-Hub coupling includes the stainless band and 2 clamps
plus the inner neoprene sleeve. HD has them in some sizes.
A plumbing supply house would have all sizes.
Sorry about the no go with the link. See if this works then navigate to
page 2 for the photos.
I know when I have gone to HD or Lowe's, I have only seen the coupling with
the stainless steel band and clamps on the outside of it, but not the inner
sleeve. These couplings were laying loose with the other fernco adapters in
the plumbing section. Didn't know if I had to go to a different section to
look for them.
I read the info on project at HD. What is of concern to me is the
Cut the replacement pipe. Measure and mark out the length of the
replacement PVC pipe and cut a section 1 inch shorter than the span to
Well, after the repair is made and the 2x4 supports are removed how is
this joint going to support the weight?
On Thu, 25 Aug 2005 02:51:10 GMT, "Eric and Megan Swope"
That's a genuine concern and you're right.
It all depends on the actual situation.
If there is a lot of unsupported stack above,
then it ought to have framing for support
beside just the No-Hub coupling.
Thanks Jim. So I can basically use it as it is sold in its round state, or
I can actually unwrap the sleeve and put it like a glove over the joints?
Good point jam about the framing and such. The reason I brought this up
originally, I had a section of cast iron drain pipe do this, and the
plumbing company who fixed this did the same thing as far as the no hub
coupling connections with the intact cast iron and a replacement piece of
pvc, but didn't unfold and wrap the sleeves around the joint, they just left
the no hub as is and connected it over the joint. I didn't know if one
practice was accepted over the other or is there an advantage of doing it
one way or the other (unwrapping the sleeve or not)?
I think you may be confused. The neoprene sleeve is a tube;
it cannot be "unwrapped". It has to be slid over the pipe ends.
The stainless band CAN be opened (unwrapped), or it too can
be slid over the pipe ends.
Confused, almost probably. Certainly wouldn't be the first time and won't
be the last :)
In the HD link that worked on page 2, it looks like they are putting a glove
over the joints, which I assume this is the neoprene sleeve. I thought this
was a separate component from the no hub coupling. That's why I asked if
the sleeve is rolled up inside the coupling and if it can then be unrolled.
Probably the link more than anything has confused me.
Glove = Neoprene sleeve.
It comes with the stainless band seen in the pics.
The band + sleeve = No-Hub coupling.
The sleeve isn't "rolled up" , it is merely "coaxial"
with the stainless band.
The HD guys chose to "fold back" (like foreskin)
1/2 of the sleeve in order to allow the new pipe
to be inserted.
The alternate method (which I like) is to slide
the sleeve ALL the way onto the new PVC pipe.
Then, when the new and old pipes are aligned,
simply slide the sleeve half way off the PVC
and onto the old pipe.
Can someone explain to me why one would use PVC instead of cast iron as the
replacement piece? After all, one already has a cast iron chain cutter to
cut out the existing damaged pipe. And, while we're at it, why is the pipe
cut a whole inch shorter than the length removed?
"Speedy Jim" < firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote in message
The neoprene sleeves have a "ridge" in the center, which will
space the pipes about 1/4" apart. I would have cut the pipe
to allow about 3/8" to 1/2" total spacing.
You could use a section of cast iron; it's a matter of
convenience and what material is on hand.
I believe for ease of working and not having to pour the lead joints, but I
agree with your take on the 1 inch gap they suggest. Wouldn't one want the
fit as snug as possible to guard against a big seepage, then the gasket does
the rest to seal it?
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