It needs a 50 cent part, maybe a dollar at the BORG. The same part fits them all so no matter which model you are good to go.
Here is a random site from Google search showing the part:
Ace Hardware has the washer for this. Had to replace ours several times since we have such hard water that destroys anything on the water system. WW
I got an American Std. toilet from the 1950's. Fluidmaster fill-valve was installed maybe 10 years ago.
Tanks fills OK, but it seeps a little after fill-up. I push the float down a little and it stops. Let go and it seeps again, constantly running a little water into the overflow tube.
I tried adjustments, didn't seem to help.
Valve is shot, needs to be replace. Eh? I wouldn't even post query if it didn't stop seeping when float is depressed. Never saw the guts of one of these.
Thx, Will
I don't understand seepage stopping when float is down, that normally turns on the water to fill the tank.
yes, get you a Korky quiet fill. easy to install, easy to adjust. no (exposed) float.
Sounds like a good idea. But ftr, I made my Fluidmaster into quiet fill by turning the water mostly off. Yes, it takes 5 minutes to fill now, but in my case, it doesn't matter as long as I don't hear it.
There is a height adjustment on these also. You move the ring up and slide the whole valve off, then replace the valve w/float. Replacing the disc valve will work most of the time...but there is a swearing factor to deal with!
I push the float down 1" or more, it fills like when the tank is empty.
I push the float down about .5", it *sounds* like the leak is stopped.
Maybe somebody can explain.
Will
I would replace the entire fluidmaster, 10 years old is about it's service life. 7-10 dollar item
Do it with the water off, press down slightly while holding the lower portion with your other hand. I have never experienced a problem.
Colbyt
Thanks, I found the replacement seal no problem, but ...
I can't get the idiot cap off. Instructions say "remove the Valve cap (Model
400A: lift arm first) by rotating 1/8 turn counterclockwise." It won't rotate.It's a 400A. From the top, ya can't see how the idiot cap fastens on. And my head won't fit down in the tank. :-(
What's the combination? I don't wanna break their silly flogging valve.
Will
There are 2 locking arms that need to be lifted (when it goes back-on they go up the cam (ramp) and lock.
Wilfred Xavier Pickles wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:
The problem is not replacing the whole 10 buck item from the get-go. Remember, the next trip you make for parts for this you have to add wasted travel costs to the parts that didn't work or other old internal parts that fail in the near future.
According to the IRS:
"For 2010, the standard mileage rate for the cost of operating your car for business use is 50 cents per mile."
Then again, maybe it will last another 10 years....
There seem to be two different style 400A valves. With one type, you remove the top by just pressing down and turning, but the other type requires prying off the black plastic cap (can be done by hand) and then prying up on the two tabs (next to the arrows) so the valve can be turned counter clockwise:
It sure would have saved a bunch of typing. For the cost of the valve, the short time to install it, I don't even have to use spell check.
Wilfred Xavier Pickles wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:
...ripped the whole thing out? Two whole nuts ain't it? One of which is only hand tight.
At least 2. Maybe more. Maybe lots more.
None of this stuff worked for mine. I just ripped the whole thing out and replaced it.
Mutha-F*** Fluidmaster **AND** The Idiot Donkey That It Rode In On!!
Thanks, Will
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