Hi,
Bad fill valve.
Bad fill valve.
Might work fine....but might also stick open and flood :(
Correct part....and cheaper here...
Hi,
I've got a 4-year old Maytag Washer, model PAV2300AWW. When I fill it with either hot or warm water, it fills fine, but if I set it to fill with cold water, it takes up to 1/2 hour to fill. The cold comes out in a very slow stream.
The first thing I did was to clean all screens on the the inlet hoses, but this didn't solve the problem. Next, I removed the water valve from the machine to visually inspect it. I took the metal cover off of the valve to see if the cold plunger was sticking. It was a little harder to pull out than the hot plunger, but it did come out. Once out and put back in it's chamber, it seemed move (manually, not electrically) as freely as the hot plunger.
Before putting the metal cover back on the water valve, I hooked both the hot and cold water hoses to the valve and turned on one at a time, and then both at the same time. The water flowed freely out of the valve.
At this point, I'm not sure if the cold water solenoid is bad, or if the signal to actuate the cold water solenoid is bad. I would think that the signal is ok, since cold water does at least trickle out. In other words, I think the signal is either all or nothing, and not strong or weak, but I don't know about these things. It may be that I simply have a sticky solenoid. Can anyone answer this for me?
My next step is to put the water valve back in the machine. If the cold plunger was a little sticky, and now I've freed it up, maybe it will work correctly again. Maybe not. If it does work correctly again, it'll probably fail again, too.
Before I put the valve back in, though, I have it in front of me so I can look online for parts. There is no obvious part number on it. The closest thing I can find to what may be a part number is a stamping on the metal cover: 274C01A MEXICO, 120v-50/60Hz-10W. On the plastic part of the valve it shows: Eaton Valve and Towne Inc., Dole Div., Carol Stream, Ill., MOPD 175 PSI, N-51.
On this website:
Sincerely, Bruce
Bruce wrote in news:Xns96F17EC5F9ED0parcxmannetscapenet@216.196.97.136:
here's the part for sure:
you can reverse the wires to the cold and hot to verify if it is a bad signal or a bad valve but in all probability it is the vavle that is bad.
Mark
"Appliance Repair Aid" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:
Thanks for the reply, Jeff.
I appreciate the link to the cheaper part.
Since my last writing, I've put the machine back together, and lo and behold, it's working fine. Cold flows fine. Of course, that may not last. Getting the thing in and out of the washer was easy enough, but I had to move a dryer out of the small laundry room to gain access to the back of the washer. (Had to take door off of laundry room to get dryer out.)
Actually, I never thought about the cold sticking open and flooding the machine and room, so it's probably best I just order one from the site you gave me and replace the old 'iffy' one.
Thanks again, and I've bookmarked
Sincerely, Bruce
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