Fixing a sillcock ...

How about something like this?

or

On second thought, the water leaking around the stem on the outside might indicate the leak is farther back. Sealing the valve at the hand wheel would just stop the water there and ice could form inside the valve. I think your second reference mentioned the existing valve used a standard size 0 (not oh) washer. Those are available from Amazon.

This looks like good advice with pictures. Much better than my off the cuff ideas.

It haves like the inside valve is working, but the seal around the hand-wheel is leaking. When you shut the water off, no leaks are observed. The hose has a nozzle that is closed at the end of the hose. When the water is turned on and pressure is at the hand-wheel, we get a leak.

Then my first off the cuff remark seems right. That rope or compression packing might be the answer. I think a hardware store should have it.

I'd replace it with a ball valve sillcock.

Yo don't need 8 feet for one faucet, and you may well never need anymore of it.. My computer is very slow now but look for 'stem packing" at Home Depot. That will be fine.

Finally came back:

BTW, I like Amazon but it has one small dishonest practice of saying that two things are bought together, when they are pretty much the same and no one would buy two at the same time. Home Depot does the same here, claiming people buy at the same time two different kinds of stem packing.

Follow the directions and/or directions on the web and/or be sure to wrap it around the stem so the two ends overlap 1/4 of the way.

With Home Depot and probably other stores you can buy on line, get an email, and someone in a mask will bring it out to your car.

You likely have to open the ceiling. They install in two ways, either soldered or threaded. If it's threaded, you might be able to unscrew it and get another one in from outside. I've never repaired, only replaced, so can't help you there.

There is no seal at the hand wheel, the valve is near the far end.

If it's leaking at the hand wheel, it's not the washer. That would cause a leak out the spigot. It would be the packing or whatever they used to seal around the stem that's the problem. Many of these fail from leaving a hose attached with it filled with water. It freezes and then bad things happen.

Then it's no longer freeze proof.

I was thinking he could remove the hand wheel and the nut. That would get him to the seal or packing. Then wrap the compression rope Mickey found around the stem.

On Mon, 31 Aug 2020 16:08:11 -0700 (PDT), snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com posted for all of us to digest...

I have read the other replies and agree that it is probably the stem packing. You can get two types at your local hardware or big box store. One is the graphite type as noted in other posts, the other is the Teflon type which is essentially the same but different materials. Turn the water off to the fixture & drain. Remove the knob; which may be the hardest part; loosen the stem nut and remove. Inspect the stem, if it is smooth you are good, if pitted it must be smoothed or replaced. Wind about 4-5 turns of packing and the stem and tighten the nut back on and put the knob on test after turning the water back on. If it still leaks tighten the stem nut more. If it still leaks you could try more packing or replacing the the stem. Replace knob screw if successful.

You may consider replacing the seat washer while having it apart.

Since you have drywall up the drywall will have to be removed to replace the whole faucet. If you are replacing it the replacement *may* have to have an anti-drain back valve (air breaker) on it. Make sure the new faucet pitches so the water will drain out when closed. I don't know where you live but since you have drywall up this type of faucet depends on the heat on the interior of the structure to keep it from freezing. I presume since you have not had previous problems this is not a factor.

How much will you be using this before the freeze hits? Nice weather to work on it or decommission it now and wait until the spring? Questions, questions...

Please let us know what you do with this so we can all learn.

You may not have to remove the knob, maybe just the stemnut. Try that first.

True, and a good idea, but that's to extend its length. Where the story got started that the washer could be the problem, I don't know, since if the washer were leaking water would dribble out the of the faucet all the time, or it would stop only when someone tightened the handle really hard, more than should be needed. If the faucet is not dribbling, the washer is not the current problem.

And it's certainly not worth replacing the whole darn valve unless something not yet mentioned is really wrong. I very much doubt that when everything points to stem packing. No need to mess with the ceiling.

AFAIK, the only thing at the hand wheel is the hand wheel and the hand wheel nut on the end of an 18" stem. I'm not sure how they come apart.

That

I presume you saw my post where I'm sure it's just the stempacking, no need to mess with the inside of the house.

But for the record, they make screw-in frost proof valves, that, if that was used to begin with, could conceivalby could be replaced without going inside the house except to turn the main water valve off.

There are also sharkbite frostfree valves, again if you knew it had sharkbite already and there is a way to undo sharkbite from the outside of the house.

Not likely you're in either situation so it's good you don't have to do this anyhow.

What's that yellow brick to the left of your faucet?

No parts are available from nibco becaue there are no non-standard parts except the stem, . Washer and stempacking are standard.

I didn't know they made these in 1970. I wish my house had them. I've stopped using the one in the back of hte house because I rarely used it yet had to turn it off, drain it, and turn it on every year.

I wonder who invented this thing and why he doesn't get credit. It's so obvious after someone else thinks of it.

I said this before I saw what a tulip handle looked like. It charmingly covers the stemnut.

And I see they made such things since 1960. Even now I think most regular homes don't get them, at least around Baltmore. If you're building a home, even a tract house that doens't have its plumbing yet. I'd insist on this. Worth the money if you live anywhere it freezes.

Growing up in Wisconsin, we had to remember to drain all outside spigots every fall.

Of course we all had basements, that makes a difference.

Every outside spigot I've seen up north had a faucet outside, and a valve about a foot or so inside the foundation wall. The inside valve had a little drip port to open. I think maybe the faucet sloped back towards the interior valve, because we would close the valve and drain the pipe every fall and water would dribble out inside.

I haven't seen one like this in the south.