The screw holding the outside faucet hande rusted and broke off. I pulled
out center portion of the sillcock and took it to Home Depot. The HD
employee game me a new sillcock and told me to just break the old one loose
and then push the other one up into the wall and screw it in. From what
I've been reading on diy sites online, these are sometimes soldered on. Is
there anyway that I can determine if this is the proper way to fix this
problem? Is there anything else I would need to know? Thanks.
Yes, they can be soldered onto the pipe feeding them, and IMHO for
places constructed in the past twentyfive years or so, it's likely it is.
The only way to be sure is to be able to get a peek at the back end. I
wouldn't try unscrewing the old one unless you can SEE a hex shaped
section at the end joining onto the pipe. You may have to cut away
enough of the outside wall to see what you have there, unless of course
the wall isn't finished on the backside and you can get at it to see
Perhaps there's some way you can replace just the parts which broke? If
it was truly just the "handle" you ought to be able to buy one which
will fit onto the stem, or modify a near fitting one. If the stem broke,
you might still be able to buy replacement one, even at Home Depot if
you find a KNOWLEDGEABLE employee.
Thanks for the response. The exterior of the house is brick. The current
sillcock is mortared tightly in place so I would really have to crank on it
to break it loose from the mortar if is is threaded, but there is no way to
see the connection without removing bricks. As for the handle, it is an old
type knob and the screw broke off flush so I cant just replace the handle.
I also tried removing the inside stem from a new sillcock and sliding it
into the old, but it is made differently and will not go. At this point, I
am at a loss. I really don't want to tear into the outside wall, but I do
need to fix the faucet.
If you happen to be in Red Sox Nation or want to mail me the stem, I'm
pretty sure I could slap it in my lathe, drill out the old screw and
give it back to you with a new screw. Providing you can get by with
using a watering can for a week or so. <G>
'Twould be "but the matter of a moment" to do it for you gratis.
That was my thought. HD only has a few stems, the most common. It
seems the employee there didn't even suggest replacing the stem, which
is a better option than unscrewing the sillcock even if one could do
that. But a good plumbing supply house will have it.
OTOH, even if your wall is brick, where does the pipe come out inside
the house? In the basement ceiling where you can see it? A) even if
I were going to unscrew an iron pipe, I'd want someone on the inside
holding whatever the pipe screws into. B) If it is copper maybe there
is room to cut the pipe (leaving enough to put a couplling on and
solder that without unsoldering the T-fitting that comes next.), and
then you could put in a frost-proof sill-cock, if it gets sufficiently
cold where you are that that would help. I wish I had them. But you
can try such things later. First I would do easy things.
Absolutely. PC-7 is a fantastic epoxy glue that is incredibly strong
and fills spaces. Glue your handle on to the old stem and it might
last for 10 to 40 years.
The problem is that the handle doesn't stay on, right? When you hold
it on, it's not stripped and it works to turn the faucet on and off
If the stem is stripped on the outside too, file some flat spots, and
maybe put some steel scraps in the handle to match, and fill all the
spaces with PC-7
There is another glue that people here like, probably because it
advertises more than PC-7 but I forget the name, and I don't see how
it could be better than PC-7. It will even patch a leak while it is
still leaking. (drain had a hole and couldn't turn off the water
either, roommate in a rental) Just push the stuff up against the pipe
or whatever when it falls down or hold it there until it sets. It was
an extra 10 minutes or so. Didn't need a second coat. Sticks to
glass too. If you want to make a removeable cap, coat the other
side's threads with vaseline before applying the PC-7.
Or you could let the handle fall off and keep it nearby, just using it
when you want, but that would bother me a bit.
Take the stem to a real, old, plumbing supply place if there is one
near. Chances are they will have one to match.
Real bad idea to try to unscrew it from the outside without being able
to get at the back. Even if it is a threaded connection and not
soldered, without being able to put a wrench on the mating fitting you
may very well twist the pipe and split it, and then you are in deep
you know what.
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