Fixing a sillcock ...

But they are USELESS as a "frost free hydrant" - which is what the OP has. They also MUST have the hose removed before freeze-up in order to be "Freeze Proof" (don't ask how I found out - - - ) Ball valves also have the problem that they are NOT repairable when (not if) they eventually fail.

Just because he doesn't know how to easily fix it doesn't mean he can't - and he is smart enough to know that much -

Looked at the link - yes , might be a good solution BUT he needs to break trhough the finished basement ceiling to install it. IF he can fix what is therer he doesn't need to fo that.

I've never seen a BV fail if used frequently since the only thing to cause such is usually lack of use and rust buildup.

Possibly.

Agree, if he can purchase the correct replacement parts for his current sillcock.

Again, the faucet seal is not at the end where the handle is. It's near the far end, ~16" away, inside, which is why it is freeze proof.

While he just said ball valve sillcock, what he meant was freeze proof ball valve sillcock and he later provided a link to one. I didn't know they existed.

That's what I've got.

I have stuff up to a foot below the valve, so I put a little plastic pan underneath the dribble port, and I've taken to just leaving it there all year. By next fall, the water evaporates.

I ruined, rounded off, the cap for the little drip port, but they sell a set of 2 of them at Home Depot. In stock. Only one fits my house, but c'est la vie.

Another advantage is the 1/4 turn full open compared to constant turning of a gate valve.

If the handle has a seal at the handle to hold back the water, how is it freeze proof? It would be filled with water at the handle.

Look at this diagram.

Closing the valve actually stops the water at the left side of the valve at the stem washer. That lets water drain out of the rest of the valve if there isn't a hose connected. Opening the valve lets water run to the rest of the valve and out the spigot. There needs to be a seal at the handle to keep water from leaking past the stem. That would be especially important if there is a hose with some sort of valve at the far end.

On a well system without good filters the silica (fine sand) can wear them out quickly. Mineral deposits can also build up in the ball - severely restricting flow.

I got rid of the "2 valve" solution with the dribble valve 40 years ago and would NEVER go back. The newer "ball valve" type hydrant is interesting - will likely try one next time I have to install one unless they are twice as expensive as the normal "freeze-proof" I've been using for 40 years.

Mine dribbles a bit if it is not turned ALL THE WAY ON. It's about

I'd never take that bet!!!!

k, I see what you mean. thanks.