On Mon, 29 Feb 2016 09:18:29 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
I think he is talking about the door panel itself and all of the ones
I measured here are a half inch smaller than the nominal size. That
includes original 55 year old doors in this house, some 20 years old
and one that is only a few years old.
On 2/29/2016 10:30 AM, email@example.com wrote:
If (new) doors -- prehung or slabs -- are 36 inches wide, then I have to
replace the jamb. And, that might entail changes to the buck, as well.
So, knowing EXACTLY how wide a door is becomes an important detail.
On Monday, February 29, 2016 at 12:30:08 PM UTC-5, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I agree that he is *talking* about the panel itself, but the question is:
"What does he want to buy/replace?"
Who knows what his RO is like. For all we/he knows, the current door is
simply what was put in but maybe not the optimal solution for his RO. He even
hinted at that in is OP. Or maybe there is something weird regarding his
current jamb or installation such that knowing only the panel measurement
may not be all that is needed.
If the goal is to buy a pre-hung door, then the RO measurement is the place
to start, not wasting time determining if a 36" door is actually 35.5".
Take the RO measurements to the dealer, along with anything else specific
to his exact situation and find out what door is the best choice. As so many people like to say in this group, it's not rocket science.
Because the contention they're _all_ "nominal less half" is simply not
so...some prehungs are less-quarter and it's certainly possible to buy
and find full-width door slabs which will have finished openings
"nominal plus" clearance rather than the door being smaller.
The "less-half" varietal is probably the most common of new units
available now, but it isn't unique and certainly wasn't in the past, either.
Though this was discouraging:
"There are still plenty of homes that were built in the age of full
sized lumber. These are the ones that are fun to fix-up."
I guess the author and I have different ideas of "fun"...
Both are correct for the given situation.
If you are actually considering a new door the best idea is to have the
place that you intend to purchase the door have their guy come out and
measure. Most will charge for this but if you make the door purchase
with them they will deduct that charge from the purchase price and order
(or take from stock if you are lucky) a door to suit your needs. A
mistake in measurement by you *will* be expensive. If they make a
measuring mistake then the onus on them.
If you just want to take a flyer and 'do-it-yourself' then also consider
door height, left or right swing, hinge size and location and boring the
door for lockset and dead bolt yourself or having that done for you.
Hiring it out will get pricey. The buck will have to be replaced (to
use a COTS door) *or*, a custom door ordered, *or* a custom jamb, etc.
In either case, we're looking at a fair bit of labor (time) and
folks tend not to like to work for free (or, for the sale of the door)
I'd originally considered just replacing with a prehung -- to eliminate
all the "fitting". But, the RO isn't wide enough to "simply" do so.
The next alternative was to leave the frame in place and swap the slab
out. This would require drilling the door to fit MY frame (so, I
don't save much on labor -- except I no longer have to remove the frame!)
But, the 35.5" confounds on that score -- unless I start inspecting
individual prehung offerings hoping to find a 35.5" door that I can
REMOVE from its frame and coerce into *my* frame! Then, I've got a
35.5" door drilled for *it's* prehung frame that I have to HOPE I can
fit to my EXISTING frame.
(too many things have to fall into place for this to be a joyous outcome)
Hey, I'm out of here. As I said upthread, I have no desire to play
data collection grunt for armchair, remote "pondering" as to how
I should proceed.
Thanks for your time but the question asked has been answered.
I can now look at ALL of my options and sort out how best for
me to proceed without "try this" sort of advice.
[No, I don't care to explain all the OTHER options that I have so someone
else can comment on how appropriate they may or may not be.]
Sorry, I don't mean to be "short" and I appreciate the comments -- from
all. But, these things tend to drag on BEYOND what is necessary (at
least what's necessary for *me* to sort out how to proceed).
On Tuesday, March 1, 2016 at 11:10:20 AM UTC-5, dpb wrote:
Now you've done it! You've asked for pertinent information when he has
explicitly stated that he does not want to answer any questions not
directly related to nominal vs. actual width of door slabs.
Are you trying to start a fight or something? ;-)
If you didn't bother to read through almost two years of discussion, try
this: "Typically the rough opening required when installing a prehung
door should be sized 2 inches wider and 2 inches higher than the prehung
door itself. For example a two-foot, eight inch (32”) by six feet, eight
inch high (80”) prehung door, would require a rough opening width of 34
inches and a height of 82 inches."
Your opening is too big for a 32" and too small for a 36". If it's
plumb, you can most likely slip in a 34" prehung door even though the RO
is a shade skimpy.
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