I'm installing doors without the frame in a home. This means I had to
route the hinge and bore the holes for knobs and latches. All went well
until I hit the last door, a closet door, were the door is about 3/16"
wider than the frame. What would be your method used to make the door fit?
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| What would be your method used to make the door fit?
It needs to be trimmed. The neatest way, unless
you have a powerful table saw with a massive outfeed
table, is to clamp something straight, like a scrap of
birch plywood, onto the door. Then cut it with a
circular saw. Set the guide board in the distance you
need to cut plus the offset of the blade from the saw
That should give you a pretty good cut. You can touch
it up with a belt sander, if necessary, and round the
edges with a Surform plane.
With a decent handplane that is sharp it's not that much at all...then
again, finding an average homeowner who even has one plus being able to
sharpen it successfully if they come here to ask "how" isn't high on my
list of sure bets...
On Thursday, February 12, 2015 at 11:34:28 AM UTC-5, Robert Macy wrote:
It's easy to cut an inch off cleanly, not so easy to do a small strip like
I think he should investigate further. If only one door in a house is off,
then most likely all the doors were built to standard width, and one has s
ettled. If that happened, there's no way it settled side to side evenly wi
thout going out of square. So taking 3/16 off is not going to solve the pr
oblem. The problem is probably that the door is square and the opening no
longer is, it has become a parallelogram.
There might be an easy way to fix this. If you pull the framing off to whe
re you can see the stud, it is probably shimmed out to the right distance t
hen nailed, but has since moved. Reduce the shim size, might be able to ju
st move the frame back to square. Or maybe it's just loose and can be rena
| Surprised no one has suggested cutting 3/32" off one side and 3/32" off
| the other, so the door still 'looks' decent, assuming some kind of panel
3/16" from about 4.5" is not nearly enough
to be visible on an average panel door, and
of course it can't be seen at all if the door is
just a slab.
Cutting one side is easier and allows the factory
edge to be left where it shows most, on the
passage side. That way, if he accidentally
gouges the door edge a bit it will be easy to
A bedrock 605 is perfect for that application; it would take
longer to unroll the extension cord for the portable power planer.
I'll argue about the better result, too. The bedrock (with
a well-sharpened cutter) will leave a better surface than the
power planer (which takes a series of finely scalloped cuts).
So, I looked up Bedrock 605. I have one of those, the blade is
just slightly wider than a door edge. Not the tool I'd pick.
I inherited a plane, about 20 inches long that looks like
a full sized 4x4 with a blade that goes the full width
(4 inches). Perfect for the job.
Still I like the power plane. I know in theory, you might
see scallops because of the way it cuts. But in practice
that doesn't happen.
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