I am framing out an opening for a sliding closet door in my basement
and had a 2 questions:
1) The sliding door track kit says the height should be 1 3/4" more
than the door, which means 81 3/4". Does that take into account enough
space on the bottom of the door so it doesn't hit the floor? Or am I
suppose to add 1/2" or so on top of the 81 3/4".
2) The closet doors is adjacent to a sheetrock wall. Can the door
just close up against the sheetrock wall, or is there suppose to be
something like a 2X4 or door jamb on the side of the frame? What is
usually done on the sides?
On Wed, 30 Sep 2009 16:35:09 -0700 (PDT), Mikepier
Ypou are talking a pocket door? Follow the instructions - the
clearance is provided for, and GENERALLY tou would frame out the door
like any other so the door closes against wood.
Any I've installed have been done that way
Ok, I think I got it now. I should just frame like a regular door with
4 9/16" wide door jambs on the sides so I can put molding around. I'll
keep it about 2 1/2" away from the wall for molding. Thanks for the
I take it you are not talking about a pocket door. The 1.75 inches
should be for all clearances.You could lay out the parts on the floor
to figure it out. Pocket door, I do not know about.
Cut it more if you like and if its too much you can always install a
threshold. I think that looks better anyway. Ive see them with no jamb
but I like it better with the door trimmed out.
Normally the sliding door is installed in a wall and just runs up
against the drywall jamb at each end. There should be a 2x4 directly
behind the drywall, or even a double 2x4. If I read your post as stating
that instead, the door will run up to a side wall, then you add a 2x4 on
the side wall and cover it with drywall to make a very short wall
section, i.e., 2" wide. You could just add an exposed 1x4 jamb, I guess.
You could butt the door against the drywall but the problem will be getting
both the vertical closing line and the bottom of the door relative to the
floor looking nice and neat.
If I were doing it, I'd put 2x of appropriate width on the walls at each
end; I'd make 1" deep groves in each slightly wider than the thickness of
the doors; I'd but a bumper in each groove. The doors will fit into these
mini-pockets and you don't have to worry about the vertical alignment
relative to the wall.
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