You're missing the point.
It doesn't matter whether I'm looking to replace just the slab
(reusing existing frame) *or* replacing the entire frame (with
a prehung unit) -- if the RO is sized too narrow!
The remedy available to me is to replace/revise the buck; or,
fabricate a thinner jamb (assuming that to be a cheaper solution
than a custom 35.5" metal door).
I'm not keen on letting this turn into another long-winded
back-and-forth where we play 20 questions and roam around
visiting all sorts of different issues that MAY or MAY NOT
"A stock 36 inches door is 36 inches -- whether a slab or
(effectively) when prepackaged in a prehung jamb"
That's all I need to know to sort out what I have to do...
Excepting it already has in large part owing to your reluctance to
outline the actual objective and specifics of the condition.
We've already established that nominal 36" doors aren't necessarily
either 36" _or_ 35.5" and that you can undoubtedly find either. That
still leaves open all the other dimensions and details that are just as
important as far as what would have to be done to make a swap.
I'd think the likelihood the RO is too narrow pretty low but it is
possible, yes. Have you done enough exploratory work to know what the
RO dimensions actually are? You may be making mountains from molehills
and the simplest solution is to simply rip out the old and put in a new
prehung stock unit.
I can trace the grout lines to know how large the opening in the
*masonry* is. I can see where the door "begins". I can do simple math
to determine how wide the buck+frame are.
I can then examine the "assembled dimensions" of prehung doors to see
how they would fit.
Ripping out the old leaves me with a large, person sized hole in
the house that needs to be filled before the next nightfall. I'm
sure as hell not keen on doing that just to "gather data".
I'm an engineer; I can look at numbers on a piece of paper and
sort out how things will (or won't!) work without having to
"try it and see!"
Another complication: we lived in Europe for a while courtesy of (er, at the order of) my employer at the time.
Those German doors did not just swing into the jamb. They overlapped. Twice. There was a double jog in the jamb and a double overlap on the door.
Wish I could get one like that here.
The easiest way to determine a masonry R/O is to drill a small hole in
the jamb near the stop and probe with a wire. You can easily fill that
hole and make it disappear if you decide not to replace the jambs.
You might find there is quite a bit of bucking in that opening.
On 03/01/2016 10:50 AM, email@example.com wrote:
Nobody said rip the whole thing out; it's unlikely to the max the RO
wasn't plenty for a "standard" door and guessing from the exterior fill
isn't much for uncovering what is actually there.
Sometimes even we engineers need to do lab work, not count of design
On Tuesday, March 1, 2016 at 3:43:37 PM UTC-5, dpb wrote:
I'd just pull the trim molding off to see the RO. Assuming he's replacing
the door, it has to come off anyhow. But then again, the scope of the
actual project hasn't been stated. It's almost certainly a RO where you
can find a replacement door to fit, there are probably a lot of choices.
Yeah, me too. The hole thru the jamb isn't all that reliable in that
you'll hit whatever blocking is there and not know for certain whether
it's fill or actual framing...I was simply pointing out to OP that the
best answer isn't necessarily the answer to the question asked and
likely isn't going to come from analysis/documentation but
Of course, if he were to simply take existing slab measurements
including those of other specifics outlined and went with those to the
local purveyor of goods... :)
You know, stock doors are designed to be installed in standard
rough openings. The rough opening is just that. Rough. The
installer will measure the door (and if pre-hung, the jamb) and
shim and jamb out the rough opening appropriately for the door.
Occasionally, the rough opening is not large enough for a stock
door - in which case either a custom door is ordered ($$$)
or a stock door is cut down (taking care that the lock stile width
and the hinge stile width remain visually consistent and wide enough
to mount the lockset).
It's not that difficult a concept, really.
My rough opening is about 64 inches, with shims and jambs the
finished (jamb to jamb) opening is 60 inches for a double door,
which makes each door approximately 30 inches wide (absent the
bevel on the lock stile).
Fit your door to the rough opening, moving the jambs as necessary
if you're only 1/2" off.
On Monday, February 29, 2016 at 11:36:33 AM UTC-5, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I tend to think that Don is either asking the wrong question or hasn't
provided enough information.
If he plans to replace just the door itself, then maybe his question is
OK. If he is planning on replacing the door and the jamb, then I
think that he should determine the RO measurements and then shop for
a pre-hung door armed with that information.
For a pre-hung door, he could measure his actual door and the actual doors
of every one in his neighborhood and still not know what to buy for
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