New home owner: HVAC issues, what do i do?!

Location - South East Florida
Model - Lennox cbx25uh-036-230-1
Age - 1.5 years with newly built house (Still under 2 year warranty)
--------------------
Issue - The unit stopped cooling. It would run all day. I checked the condenser. It was running. The cooling coils were fine. It just didn't seem to be able to lower temperature more than 2 degrees below the outside temperature.
I contacted the Builders and the HVAC company. I also hired someone that I trusted(from other work that I have had them done for over ten years) to come check the HVAC. They confirmed that there didn't seem to be any leaks in the condenser but there did seem to be a slow leak on the cooling coil.
Now where is the problem. The HVAC company came and they checked the condenser then they simply filled it with refrigerant. I asked the tech if he could check the inside for leaks he simply said "I don't have the equipment". I pressed the issue because it didn't make sense that they wouldn't have an electrical sniffer. That was clearly bullshit. I then forced them to come again via contact with the builder.
They came by today and checked the cooling coil. For a moment, the sniffer beeped rapidly but the tech quickly moved it over and it stopped. Now this is when I started pressuring the Tech to recheck the coil because I mentioned that I had someone else come to diagnosis the problem. His response was "Yeah, that is what people do. They say there is a problem where there isn't one so they can get 1,000 dollar worth of work done. I had a couple of them in this area." Now, I really doubt this is the case in my situation given I trust the guy I hired, and I was there when he was diagnosing the problem. It was pretty clear there is a leak in the cooling coil. I also have concerns as to whether there are leaks in the copper tubes underneath.
Now I want to know what can done about this situation. The HVAC company claims there are no leaks. The unit is 1.5 years old and lost the ability to cool. It says on the first work order that they added 2lbs of R410A.
I asked the HVAC guy about why there could have been such a loss of refrigerant. His response was "I don't know. Maybe it wasn't charged properly in the beginning or someone caused a leak in the tubes."
I need to know how to make sure I don't get screwed over. There might even be problems with the copper tubing because the HVAC tech said that they had to replace two houses in the neighborhood's copper tubes. He assured me that the cooling coil is not the issue, but that there might be a leak in the copper tubes, but "who knows".
Wtf do I do now? I am at a loss. I have had many problems with this new house including leaky roof that needed to be fixed 3 times because they couldn't fix it the first time. Two bathrooms with tiles that were improperly grouted, so the grout would crumble. This was fixed SIX times before I was able to force them to do it.
Reply to
99problemsHVAC1ofthem
BUY Passports, Driver License,ID Cards,: snipped-for-privacy@outlook.com purchase registered and unregistered passport of all countries.visas,biometric passport,degrees,drivers license,I.D cards.Training certificates M GCSE, A-levels, High School Diploma Certificates ,GMAT, MCAT, and LSAT Examination Certificates , novelty Birth, Marriage, and Death Certificates , Novelty Passports and New Identity Packages , Replicated, False Degrees/Diplomas from most post-secondary institutions from around the world (we have over 3000 templates on file) all designed to look 100% identical to the original.Custom Printing We use high quality equipment and materials to produce authentic and counterfeit documents.All secret features of real passports are carefully duplicated for our Registered and unregistered documents.contact us using the info below
Email:------------------ snipped-for-privacy@outlook.com General Support:-------- snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com Phone --------------- +23751047718 Whatsapp .............. +23751047718
we are able to produce the following items; REAL BRITISH PASSPORT. REAL CANADIAN PASSPORT. REAL FRENCH PASSPORT. REAL AMERICAN PASSPORT. REAL RUSSIAN PASSPORT. REAL JAPANESSE PASSPORT. REAL CHINESSE PASSPORT.
REGISTERED AND UNREGISTERED BRITISH PASSPORT. REGISTERED AND UNREGISTERED CANANIAN PASSPORT. REGISTERED AND UNREGISTERED FRENCH PASSPORT. REGISTERED AND UNREGISTERED AMERICAN PASSPORT. REGISTERED AND UNREGISTERED RUSSSIAN PASSPORT. REGISTERED AND UNREGISTERED JAPANESSE PASSPORT. REGISTERED AND UNREGISTERED CHINESSE PASSPORT. REGISTERED AND UNREGISTERED PASSPORTPASSPORT FOR COUNTRIES IN THE EUROPEAN UNION.
Email:------------------ snipped-for-privacy@outlook.com General Support:-------- snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com Phone --------------- +23751047718 Whatsapp .............. +23751047718
Reply to
barryhulton
I learned recently about an area of the law called construction litigation. It is used when construction of a building turns out to be sub par. You may want to contact your local legal aid society or a construction lawyer to find out what your options are. It sounds like the neighborhood may have been built by a developer who skimped on quality. I don't know what all the options are, but I assume they include funds for future repairs.
Reply to
bevtellin
Exactly 2 lbs eh? Hmmm....a 3 ton lennox only holds 4.23 lbs....thats a 70% loss and illegal to recharge. OR, you just got freon "but pounded" and were bout to get set up for the old "spring recharge" sales pitch. Did the tech have a digital scale that he was weighing this charge in with? Regardless, all the way across the country, I can tell you that the system has a high potential to be overcharged now and most likely not leaking freon at all....SO, the tech needs to recover all the refrigerant into a recovery cylinder and pull the system into a vaccum of 15 inches of mercury . Then let the system sit for an hour to see if it holds. My guess is that it will, but if it drops more than 1-2 p.s.i. in that time, a 250-300 psi Nitrogen pressure test with a bottle of soap bubbles is the ONLY way to go. Those electronic sensors are garbage and dyes are not necessary and are harmful to the compressor....If the vaccum held solid for 1 hour,
Your problem is 1 of 2 things....
1. A bad TXV valve (thermal expansion valve) or Plugged TXV screen.
The TXV controls the amount of liquid refrigerant flow into the evaporator coil. There is screen that goes inside the small 3/8" line right at the connection at the evaporator and it acts as a filter that is often plugged from new construction debris being in the linesets prior to brazing/sealing the system...it doesn't take much plug the screen enough so that the TXV runs wide open to compensate and hence a much lower temp drop across the coil. To get to the screen you have to remove one side of TXV so most companies will just change it and call it a day. Always make sure once the system is running again, check the temperature of the air before the evaporator coil and then again after....the temp drop will tell most techs whats truly going on.
2. Air Flow Problem
a. plugged solid air filter. b. New construction sites breed filter thieves which allows the system to run filterless for long periods which leads to dirty inlet to the evaporator coil. This needs to be removed and chemically cleaned. Sometimes Lennox or the company will warranty if the equip is hi end and the customer wasnt at fault...case by case. c. Duct problem....NOT COMMON AT ALL....I have seen this once or twice over the course of probably 50,000 residential new construction service calls. Crushed duct, plywood in return, all the air balance damper arms in the off position, humidifier bypass open, or even a zone system problem.
100%, it is one of the above problems with explainations. If the tech says "NO" or gives an excuse about not seeing the equipment...don't let him touch the equipment, because he is a short cutting, annual recharging, no leak finding dillhole. If the above doesn't make sense to them....they do not know THEORY and/or they don't have enough service experience to have familiarity with the Lennox models and the tendencies or where to start anyway. The AC side of the system is SCIENCE people..if there arent gauges and temp probes all over the place with maybe some math....or the tech can't explain to you whats going on in a manner that you can at least grasp that it makes sense or he proved it with a show of temps or gauge screens.
I could talk chicks thru a flame sensor clean at 3 am, with a nail file and a butter knife....did it lots. lol
Anyone else got one? I cannot be stumped....can't be done.
Reply to
Anonymous
You cannot add to R410A. R410A is a blend of three refrigerants to copy cat characteristics of R-22. If you have a leak, the blend percentages of the three refrigerants will be off. All Refrigerant MUST be reclaimed, the leak repaired, system evacuated, and recharged with liquid R410A to 12 to 15 degrees superheat. If all is not replaced the blend will be off and efficiency declines. Total refrigerant charge is on outside unit name tag. This is for 25 foot of copper line set. Add more for longer copper, less for shorter than 25 foot. You probably don't have a TXV. I am a licensed HVAC Contractor from Mich.
Reply to
warmairbob

Site Timeline Threads

HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.