Conventional oil hard to find?

Mar 22, 2021 Last reply: 5 years ago 197 Replies

Now you're just being silly. Every car ever sold specified the current oil spec as the guidelines.

We've been at this since round about API SC days as I recall (do you?). As I recall when the emission stuff hit the fan we jumped all the way to SD.

It's been that uphill climb ever since for every vehicle sold in the USA.

I pulled out my shop manual for a 1997 Japanese vehicle and it says on page LU-1 "API grade SH Energy Conserving if multigrade engine oil or ILSAC multigrade engine oil SAE 5W30 is the best choice for your vehicle, for good fuel economy, land good starting in cold weather." On page LU-2 it says to use 5.4 liters (5.6 US qts) with oil filter change and 4.7 liters (4.2 US qts) without oil filter change.

It even specifies a "Dry Fill" on page LU-3 of 5.8 liters (6.1 US qts) which I don't remember if I've seen that in other service manuals (have you?).

Looking in a 2002 German factory manual on page 020-10 under "Maintenance" I see my own handwritten note to not to use LL-04. On page 020-6 are the "Maintenance Tables" and here it says to change both the oil & filter for Table a. Oil Service, and the same for Table b "Inspection I Service" and Table d "Oil Service" it says in the chart to use 7.5 liters (7.9 US qt) of

5W-30 synthetic oil BMW part no. 07 51 0 017 866 (LL-01).

Stop being silly. It gets better with each designation. Sometimes it matters. Sometimes it don't.

Stop it with the silliness. It don't get worse for motor oil or for oil filters.

I don't know why I'm bothering to pull out my manuals just because most of you pull all your statements out of your own asses instead of the manual.

You made me go back to my trunk to push the talisman aside (to ward off those tigers) and on page MA-9 it says to use 6-3/8 qt (US measure) with oil filter and 5-7/8 qt (US measure) without oil filter and in the "Recommended fluids" column it says "Energy Conserving Oils of API SG asterik 2, asterik

  1. Asterik 2 For further details see Recommended SAE viscosity number (MA-10) Asterik 3 Energy conserving oils. These oils can be identified by such labels as EC-I, EC-II, energy conserving, energy saving, improved fuel economy, etc.

On page MA-10 there is a viscosity chart with the captain of "10W30 is preferable if the ambient temperature is above -18C (0F). 20W-40 and 20W50 are usable if the ambient temperature is above 10C (50F) for all seasons.

Anyways out of three factory manuals the two Japanese manuals specify oil without filter and only the German manual specifies the oil with the filter every time.

I don't know why I bother to dig these up just because most of you pulled your comments out of your asses which is why you're wrong on all counts.

In the end (given that's where your ideas come from) you can change your oil and filter on any interval you like but stop making up s*it about the factory specifications please.

Two out of three of my own shop manuals refute everything you people claim.

Yes. Of course it was.

I think I'm the only one who isn't pulling all his ideas out of his ass. :) All my statements were backed up with relevent articles and shop manuals.

That link you read said exactly what I said that link said. Actually I gave you two links which both said what I said they said.

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Please read both links again and let me know what you found when you do. What you should find out is that both said exactly what I said they said.

I suggest you search for what it says about manufacturers recommendations. :)

The links are a bit contradictory.

First link says: If you?re wondering how often you should change your oil filter, keep things simple by changing your oil filter every time you change your engine oil. Following this schedule might cost you more money, but it will save your engine from possibly getting clogged with grime, sludge or large metallic pieces.

Second link says: Many manufacturers say to change the oil filter every other oil change. So, if your owner?s manual calls for oil changes every 7,500 miles, that would be an oil filter change every 15,000 miles.

But a lot of owners and mechanics ? many of them the same people who would never go past 3,000 miles per oil change ? also would never dream of doing an oil change without also changing the filter. Their reasoning: Why pass brand-new, clean oil through a filter that?s already carrying gunk from the old, dirty oil?

I just follow my manual that says every change. If yours differs, fine, follow it.

I doubt that any car manufacturer would be happy about that because if they build a car that blows up the day after the warranty expires, you can be sure that the replacement car will be made by someone else.

The ONLY reason NOT to change the filter every time pretty much boils down to "money". What possible advantage would YPU get bynot changing the filter????

Thank all that's holy the whole world isn't like YOU.

Filters don't "wear" you clown. They plug up - and sometimes split.

That is the quality of the filter

And none of that affects how OFTEN you change the thing.

You don't have a CLUE what you base your descision on other than wanting to appear to be a Mensa class Genius in fields where you are BADLY outclassed

We can all read the filter reviews - and exactly WHAT is the problem with "cardboard end plates"? Are thy oil soluable, or does your car have water in the oil??? Not arguing for the quality of the orang painted filters - but has THAT part of the construction caused a filter failure in your personal experience??? It hasn't in my 50+ years experience. The thread tied around the filter medium has - on filters more expensive than Fram - and your AutoZone reference means absolutely nothing as the orange can filters are all the same regardless who sells them and at what price. ANd The Gold coloured filters made by the same company are of SIGNIFICANTLY higher quality.

Have you ever split a 15 thou filter can (or seen one actually split)? Or are you planning on leaving it on long enough that it rusts through???? Some filters don't NEED a preddure bypass filter because the engine has one. Some engines don't require an anti-backflow or drainback valve because they are mounted vertically.

Reguardless NONE of the criteria you listed would have ANY ffect on how often you would change the filter other than possibly the filter area.

You don't have a stinkin' CLUE.

Actually the VAST majority no longer list the volume without the filter

They all do

I follow the recommendations on my 25 year old pickup too - It has

373000 on the clock - and the filter is changed with every oil change just like the manual says. Still the original fuel pump (and virtually everything else engine-wize - except the cam syncronizer and the alternator, spark plugs and air filter0

OK, so Datsun (Nissan) and possibly Renault and MitsoShiity MIGHT have that recommendation on SOME of their cars (although I suspect it is Infinity specific - and POSSIBLY even model specific )

I didn't say Honda was THE only one - it was the only one actually referenced in ANY of the sites stating "many manufacturers" - we now have 2 - Honda and Nissan Infinity. 2 isn't exactlky MANY.

Now he claims to be a ritired accountant - He always claimed to be an engineer before, didn't he????

That works OK for a "bypass" filter - and the day a filter "fails" on a car is a day too late to change it. Same with oil.

Hard to filter a nym shifting turd.

I doubt he was ever an engineer either

Shows how much you know. Today's spec engine oils will eat the camshaft out of older flat tappet engines in no time if you don't add a zinc replacement additive of some sort. It will also wipe the babbit bearings out of the even older engines with direct babbited bearings.

Lots of other instances where current spec lubricants are NOT recommended for older engines. Same thing with both automatic transmission fluids and gear lubricants. (and even antifreeze)

GM has been doing that for years. Too bad a lot of Vegas didn't even make it to end of warranty - same with Olds diesels. How about the plastic intake manifolds on the 3.8 that melted from the EGR valve - for over 15 years IIRC? Or the ignition switches that turned themselves off while you were driving if you had a few keys on the ring???

ANd people njust kept coming back to GM to buy another one!!!

BOHICA!!!!

Not necessarily the SAME OIL just because it is blended and bottled by the same company - but is LIKELY either the same or very close. Even Shell and Mobil and Havoline make more than one kind of oil and sell them under their own name and those of third parties. - they are not all the same - - - -

Drove my brother's Vega from PA to CA when he moved. It was never the same after that.

Did not have any of the other problems you mentioned but enough other issues I'll never buy another GM car.

Different situation but when I was driving the standard was 12,000 miles or about once a month. At 10 gallons or Rotella and two or three filters, that adds up.

When the older trucks were being replaced with Volvo Whites with the Detroit 60 engines, the shop foreman started a testing protocol.The tests showed no significant degradation at 20,000 miles but that became the new standard. When I asked him his reply was the oil had to be changed sometime and 20,000 seemed like a reasonable target.

The Detroit 60's were game changers. A lot of them were hitting a million miles without an in-frame rebuild. Previously most big diesels were tired at about 700,000.

I don't, Arlen certainly did some engineering stuff, particularly wifi between the houses in his area with very poor cellphone coverage.

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